Siamese algae eaters (Crossocheilus siamensis) OVERVIEW: Siamese algae eaters (Crossocheilus siamensis) are a member of the carp family within cyprinids. This means they reside mainly in freshwater habitats with an omnivorous feeding preference for aquatic vegetation and terrestrial animals such as bugs, molluscs, annelid worms, etc., all depending on what's readily available near them to snack upon at any given time! If you're looking to clean up your tank, the Siamese algae eater is just what you need. These fish are great for beginners and veterans alike because they eat away at pesky green goop in no time! While freshwater aquariums can be a challenging task when it comes to keeping them clean, having an option like this will make those chores much easier on any pet owner whose passion lies with their aquatic pets. With so many benefits that come with owning one of these little critters, there isn't anything not worth mentioning about them! BEHAVIOR: Siamese Algae Eaters are the most social fish in your tank. They love to play with other community aquarium species, and they don't mind when you go on vacation for a week or two either! Siamese Algae Eaters can get along with just about any of their tank mates as long as they have plenty of room to swim around - which is why an aquarium at least ten gallons should be considered before adding them to your home environment. HABITAT: The Siamese algae eater is a type of fish that can be found in freshwater habitats throughout Southeast Asia. They are bottom dwellers and prefer to spend their time near plants or other hiding places on the ground where they feel comfortable and safe. In Thailand, these fascinating creatures live along riversides and flooded forests during this region's rainy season, which provides them with plenty of food sources for survival like edible plant life, insects, worms, crustaceans, including crayfish & shrimp eggs! APPEARANCE: The female Siamese algae eater has a broader midsection than the male fish. This appearance detail is interesting because it creates more of an aesthetic difference between males and females, which can be seen as beneficial for mating or breeding in captivity.  Another interesting trait about these creatures is that they do not have what's commonly called "a swim bladder." If left without any motion, this fish will quickly sink to the bottom of their habitat due to its lack thereof; however, this could also offer some benefit when owning them in captivity since you would need less space with no risk of losing your pets! Side-by-side comparisons are always fun: The female Siamese algae eaters seem like bigger versions compared to males Siamese algae eaters are slender and long fish with a bold black stripe running over their entire bodies. These short, brownish-beige colour fish can be easily identified by one eye-catching strip on each side of the body with an almost clear caudal fin at the end of it all. The Siamese algae eater is most commonly found in aquariums because they do not require much food or water movement to survive but thrive best when given live plants and aquatic animals as part of their diet. SIZE: Siamese algae eaters can get a bit larger than most freshwater tropical fish species that you'll find in various tanks. These bottom-loving fish can grow up to approximately 6 inches (16 cm) and sometimes even longer when given a chance, but they prefer smaller spaces with plenty of hiding spots.  Fish owners should plan for at least 30 gallons in size if considering this pet for their tank- it will give them room to swim comfortably or hide from other aggressive neighbours! Siamese Algae Eaters are rare breeds; unlike many types of freshwater animals who don't need much space, Siamese Algae Eater does best with enough swimming room and places to retreat into safety while being away from predators more. DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SIAMESE ALGAE EATERS AND SIAMESE FLYING FOX FISH: When purchasing a Siamese algae eater for an aquarium, fish owners should be aware of the distinguishing features between this species and the flying fox. For example, the Siamese algae eater has fins that continue onto its back instead of being narrower at its tail end like those found on the flying fox.  In addition, they have 3-4 vertical black lines running down their side while these markings are absent in other varieties such as peacock or guppy, which may confuse purchases. It can sometimes be difficult to tell if a fish you're looking at is just an ordinary Siamese Algae Eater or it's something else entirely... Like Flying Foxes! These two types of aquatic creatures look nearly identical, but there are some important differences. The flying fox has a distinctive gold band that can be seen along the top border of their black stripe, not found on true Siamese algae eaters.  The telltale difference between these two species is in colouration. While both may have an orange-yellow tinge to them, only the flying fox's fins are always clear because they don't have a light golden line around its dark black one like you would find with somebody who's also got it coming off their tails and across their body as well. This animal's appearance varies solely on where it lives; those living near salt water will typically sport lighter colours than individuals from freshwater pools or ponds since they must adapt to prevalent sunlight conditions due to location differences. CARE: One of the most attractive facets of owning Siamese algae eaters is that they are not as hard to care for because you can feed them various foods. However, it's important to know what diseases these fish might be susceptible to and how best to prevent sicknesses before committing yourself completely. Before making your commitment to caring for siamese algae-eaters, do some research into which illnesses could affect this species if neglected or fed incorrectly by researching online from various sources like books on animal behaviour or other websites about aquariums in general. One word of caution is not to overpopulate the tank with too many Siamese. Even though these fish are amazing for their constant tank cleaning action when feasting on algae, it's important to remember that any fish will create body waste which can dirty up your tanks and environment. FEEDING: Feeding your fish the correct food is essential for their health and longevity. If you feed them something that doesn't match what they're used to, it may disrupt their digestive system or interfere with their growth process. For example, a Siamese algae eater eats everything in sight - dead insects, plant matter like seaweed (if available), even other fish! Like most species of aquarium owners know already, feeding each one correctly keeps them happy and healthy as long as possible. Fish are usually picky about who's giving out the grub but Siamese algae eaters can take pretty much anything thrown at 'em because they're omnivores: They'll scavenge any dead insect bits laying around on land or water just waiting. TANK SIZE: Generally, plan to go with a minimum tank size of 25-30 gallons. This will allow them to be active and explore while also having places to hide.  Keep the water pH at 6.5-7 which replicates the slightly acidic conditions these fish encounter in their normal dwelling place in wild streams and rivers that have lower current action when you're keeping Siamese tropical freshwater fish like this one for your aquarium or pond setting set for best results between (25 °C – 26 ° C).  The ideal hardness is 5-20 dH so as not to damage its delicate fins too much against rocks or other hard surfaces it might bump into during an exploratory swim around exploring new waters. TANKMATES: When you want to find a fish that can work well with your Siamese algae eater: Take the time to research what other bottom-dwellers are compatible. Be careful when selecting which ones go together as not all of them will get along peacefully. Avoid Cichlids and red-tailed sharks because they can be more aggressive than others! BREEDING: Siamese algae eaters are notoriously difficult to breed in a regular aquarium setting. Unfortunately, fish experts don't know as much about successfully breeding this species when not at an established fish farm. As a result, most owners end up relying on the farms to expand their numbers of Siamese algae eaters. 

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Temperature: This species is subject to seasonal temperature fluctuations in nature and is most comfortable between 14 – 22 °C. Permanent exposure to warmer conditions is likely to result in a shortened lifespan and in many countries or well-insulated homes it’s best-maintained without artificial heating year-round. In tests the wild fish from Hainan Island showed a reduced tolerance to cooler temperatures compared with tank-bred specimens, presumably due to their more southerly, i.e., tropical, distribution. pH: 6.0 – 8.5 Hardness: 90 – 357 ppm

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Temperature: This species is subject to seasonal temperature fluctuations in nature and is most comfortable between 14 – 22 °C. Permanent exposure to warmer conditions is likely to result in a shortened lifespan and in many countries or well-insulated homes it’s best-maintained without artificial heating year-round. In tests the wild fish from Hainan Island showed a reduced tolerance to cooler temperatures compared with tank-bred specimens, presumably due to their more southerly, i.e., tropical, distribution. pH: 6.0 – 8.5 Hardness: 90 – 357 ppm

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Gobies for the Freshwater and Brackish Tank Gobies from the Brachygobius genus, better known as bumblebee gobies, are small bottom-dwelling aquarium fish species prominently featuring a bee-like yellow and black striped pattern. These unique creatures may not be the best choice for most community tanks due to their preference for brackish water conditions, making them difficult to maintain in more typical freshwater settings. For those willing to put in the work and take on a little risk, bumblebee gobies make for an exciting addition. They have been raised by aquarists before with great success! Aquarium enthusiasts will find this fish incredibly rewarding as they provide hours of entertainment while having unique behaviours not seen in other aquarium species. Name The common name "bumblebee gobies" or "bumblebee fish" often refers to one of Brachygobius sp. (B. xanthozona, B. doriae, B., nunus etc.). *Most bumblebee gobies in fish stores are listed as Brachygobius xanthozona; unfortunately this is almost always a case of mislabeling and the species rarely if ever available Natural Habitat In the humid and salty water of estuaries, rivers, and streams in Indonesia (Java), Thailand, Vietnam. These fish are able to find plenty of hiding places among mangrove roots or fallen branches that lie on top of a muddy substrate with organic residues. Wild bumblebee gobies can be found throughout Indonesia ( Java ), Sumatra, Borneo ) as well as parts of India. Here these little guys inhabit shallow habitats where they live amid brackish waters covered by mud or sand, which also has an abundance of plants for protection from predators such as larger fish who may want to eat them up! Identification These little fish are known for their yellow and black striped appearance, a short body shape that looks like a bumblebee. They're also smaller goby species with an average size of about 1-2 inches (3-4 cm). Bumblebee gobies may look small in stature, but they pack quite the punch! These cute little guys get their common name from looking just like a bumblebee - bright stripes and all! The Brachygobius genus is very difficult to distinguish between because they are all almost identical. Males can be differentiated from females by their more slender body shape and brighter colouration. Requirements Bumblebee gobies are not the best fish for a community aquarium as they will be quickly outcompeted by more assertive species and can even die of starvation. Bumblebees do their best when kept in brackish water at low salinity (a range between 1.002 and 1.006). These fish stay very small, so there is no need to set up a large aquarium. For decent-sized groups, at least 10 gallons (38 L), with plenty of floor space should be enough for them.  The tank should always be fully cycled before adding any new inhabitants, but water filtration can remain weak; these animals naturally live in calm waters and may not respond well if the current gets too strong! Tankmates Bumblebee Gobies are often difficult to find tank mates for because they live in brackish water habitats. This means that the range of possible companions is relatively small, so it's important to do your research before adding a new fish into an existing community. The Bumblebee Goby is a peaceful fish that can live in harmony with other species. They only show aggression to defend territory or mates, but even then fighting rarely results in injury! FOOD Bumblebee Gobies are carnivores and need to eat meat. They prefer brine shrimp, tubifex worms, or bloodworms for their diet but anything would do as long as it's a little more novel than what they're used to. You can opt for live, frozen food, or freeze-dried. Take note though: it will be much easier to get them eating the live food! You can make your bumblebee goby feel right at home with the following aquatic invertebrate foods: Daphnia, Tubifex, Brine shrimp, Copepods and Grindle worms. Breeding These fish are incredibly fascinating. They come in a variety of colours and patterns depending on the region they live in, but when it comes to breeding habits- these creatures make for an awesome spectacle! Territorial Males: The males in the Bumblebee Goby species are particularly interesting to watch. Each male establishes a territory of his own and spends most of his time chasing other fish away from it, which makes for an entertaining show! Encouraging Them to Breed When your Bumblebee Gobies are ready to breed, the males will take a prime spot in their cave and guard it against other fish. The female has a special talent for choosing these spots wisely as they know that she needs a safe place if her eggs want to survive. When you look at your tank of Bumblebee Gobies, which usually act like one happy family most of the time you might notice some warning signs: females start swelling up around the belly area while all eyes are on them! There won't be more babies anytime soon but rather just an extraordinary pregnancy where we can witness how much care is put into making sure this little egg survives inside its mother's womb until its birthday arrives. To encourage your Bumblebee Gobies to mate, just pour some fresh water into the tank. As they hear the rain on the roof of a home that is only water in this time of year - it will convince them it's finally raining and breeding season has begun! To do this, the male will escort the female to his cave or hideout where she will lay her eggs. Once they're laid, he'll fertilize them and then guard over them until they hatch after four to nine days have passed.  Telling a Bumblebee Goby's gender is easy thanks in part because there are two different ones: males tend to be brighter and more slender while females can vary depending on whether or not they're full of eggs! As breeding gets closer for both genders though, it becomes even easier with males becoming much brighter than before so as to catch a female’s attention during mating season. Fun Facts  The Bumblebee Goby is a small fish that needs some same-species friends in order to get along. They can be aggressive when they are kept with other animals, but adding the correct species of animal will make them more peaceful and less antagonistic towards others. The school pattern helps keep it happy so you don't have to deal with any trouble from this little guy! Bumblebee Gobies, not wanting to be left behind by their fishy friends with swim bladders can only scoot along the bottom of the tank. The lack of a bladder makes it so it cannot rise up as quickly and easily as other fish in water tanks do. The bumblebee goby is one of the smallest freshwater fish with adults only reaching two inches in length. These little guys are so small that they are often found living among algae, but this species can also adapt to life on land and sand bottoms or even dry surfaces like rocks! In the wild, it is often rain that encourages them to breed. They turn out in droves when water becomes less brackish but are more likely to find a safe hideout or cave with which they can lay their eggs amongst other species' nests if too many of those animals are present around the same area and time period.

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With a standard length of 45cm (17.72 inches), the Fahaka puffer is the second largest freshwater pufferfish, second to the Tetraodon mbu.  They can be found in rivers and lakes and are known to inhabit heavily sheltered areas of water across the entire length of the Nile River. It can be found throughout Eastern Africa, Northern Africa, Northeast Africa and Western Africa.  They prey predominantly on snails, small freshwater crabs, insect larvae and other benthic creatures The Fahaka is not bred commercially so all specimens available for sale are wild-caught. Wild-caught juvenile Fahaka are reasonably common in most areas of the world. Collection for the aquatic trade is not considered a threat but the number of individuals taken from the wild or the size of wild populations is not known. The Fahaka was assessed in 2019 and the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) classifies the species as 'Least Concern'. However, changes in habitats due to human activity (agriculture, aquaculture, and pollution) may threaten the species in future.  According to several sources, the Fahaka puffer is also harvested for human consumption. In the aquarium The Fahaka is a medium-large and intelligent species of pufferfish, so it requires a large aquarium with a complex and enriching scape design to keep it occupied. This pufferfish avoids open areas of water in its natural habitat because it feels too exposed and the same is true in aquariums, so the tank must offer the pufferfish areas in which it can take cover. This is especially important in young Fahaka puffers or newly imported adults. A busy scape will help them feel more safe and secure, and their confidence will grow in time. You can give an enriching aquarium by providing an elaborate scape with lots of caves and hiding spaces to explore, but keep their size in mind and maintain plenty of open swimming space too. You can heavily decorate a tank for a juvenile and then enlarge the open areas as the fish grows. An appropriately scaped tank will help the large yet shy Fahaka puffer feel secure and confident, knowing that it can take cover quickly if needed which will result in more assertive and explorative behaviours. Fahaka puffers are often plant biters and plants with long, thin shoots, such as Tiger Lotus, Crinum calamistratum and Crypt balansae, will likely be decimated by the pufferfish within a short period of time. Even the toughest plants, such as Anubias, will suffer from the occasional attack, so it is important to choose hardy species which can withstand and recover from these bites. Plants like Anubias, Java Fern, Bolbitis and Amazon Sword are good choices for these fish. Floating plants, such as Amazon Frogbit, give dappled shade which is also appreciated by this fish. Cheap stem plants, such as Limnophila sessiliflora grow well in the sand substrate. The fish will bite at the plants, but they will quickly recover because they grow so fast. The flow in the aquarium should be medium to strong, but never overpowering. The strength of the flow is usually achieved with spray bars from canister filters angled towards the top of the water. By keeping a slightly dropped water level, so that the returning water from the filter splashes down onto the surface, it will create the agitation required whilst also facilitating gas exchange for high levels of oxygenation. Powerheads with narrow gaps in the grill may be used to create additional flow. We would advise that cages or guards (such as anemone guards) are used on powerheads to prevent injury to the fish if they become trapped. Avoid any exposed power cables into the aquarium as a Fahaka puffer can easily bite through them. With the correct care, the Fahaka can live in excess of 20 years. A fish that lives for 20+ years will be with you through a lot of changes in your life, so these fish obviously represent a long-term commitment. Substrate The Fahaka is a wallowing species of pufferfish and should always be provided with a substrate that allows it to indulge in this natural behaviour. A usable substrate is a critical component of enrichment for this fish. They wallow for several reasons, such as to hunt, to avoid the detection of bigger predators (who might eat them), or simply just to safely rest. Pufferfish dig into the substrate by nose-diving the ground and using their powerful tails to push their whole body forward into the substrate. If the substrate is too hard or abrasive then it may cause scrapes and scratches which could be painful for the fish and predispose it to bacterial and/or fungal infections. Fungal and bacterial organisms will take full advantage of even minor abrasions, so it is important that we do everything we can to prevent such injuries. As a general rule, fine sand is the best option for any wallowing species of pufferfish. The softer/smoother the sand is, the better for the pufferfish. Play sand or Pool Filter sand can also be used, providing that it is fine enough and doesn't contain any potentially harmful chemicals. Gravel and plant-soil/substrates are unsuitable for the Fahaka and may cause injury if the fish attempts to wallow in it. Any sharp or coarse pieces should be avoided/removed. The depth of the sand should always match the depth of the fish's body. It is recommended to start as shallow as possible and then gradually increase the depth of the substrate as the fish grows. This fish will disturb the substrate on a regular basis by moving from place to place within the sand, but it is recommended that the keeper regularly stirs up the substrate to stop the sand from ‘compacting’ to prevent the build-up of anaerobic bacterial populations. The depth of substrate required for an adult Fahaka puffer will need stirring at least once a week. The Fahaka can adjust their colouration to better blend in with their surroundings. We recommend using paler substrates which will encourage the fish to display its most visually appealing colouration. Bare-bottomed / Tile-bottomed Tanks Some keepers may choose a bare-bottomed or Tile-bottomed aquarium because they feel they are easier to keep clean or may find it more visually appealing for themselves, but the primary concern when designing an aquarium should always be the welfare of the animals that you intend to keep in it. Bare-bottomed tanks deny a wallower the opportunity to express its natural behaviour and the keeper should never elect to deprive an animal of crucial enrichment.  A Fahaka puffer is healthiest and happiest when they are given a suitable substrate. The only time bare-bottomed tanks should be considered is during the initial quarantine or during worming treatment.  Tank size As the Fahaka puffer can achieve lengths exceeding 45cm (17.72 inches), Pufferfish Enthusiasts Worldwide recommends a tank no smaller than 5x2x2 (60"x24"x24") for a Fahaka puffer. This translates to a tank volume of approximately 570 litres / 150 US gallons. The dimensions of the tank are the most important facet of suitability, not the amount of water it can hold. A five-foot tank is only just over 3x the length of a fully grown, healthy Fahaka puffer and the 2 feet depth (front to back) only just allows a 17" fish to turn around within and change its course; so we are sure you can appreciate why we would not want to go any smaller than this. We would like to stress that a 5x2x2 tank is what we consider as the absolute minimum for this fish and that bigger always equals better.  Old care guides, commonly authored by English keepers, recommend a "120 gallon tank", but they are actually referring to Imperial gallons, which is roughly 150 US gallons. Imperial gallons and US liquid gallons do not share an equilibrium and this is important to recognise.   The second factor that you must consider is the tank's dimensions. A tank may contain the recommended 120 Imperial gallons, but the dimensions may be incorrect for the fish. For example, cylinder or corner tanks of 120 Imperial gallons would be totally unsuitable for Fahaka. The growth rate of Fahaka  The Fahaka grows incredibly quickly when the care is correct. Young Fahaka need to grow quickly in the wild or they will soon be eaten by bigger fish. The Fahaka has an initial growth spurt, in which it grows very quickly. You should expect a healthy Fahaka to grow at least 2.5 cm (1 inch) every four weeks for the first 10 months of its life, with the remainder of its growth being achieved in the following 12 months. For this reason, we don't actually recommend grow-out tanks for this species. We strongly encourage keepers to put the fish straight into their forever tank. This will avoid stunting and the extra expense of buying multiple tanks over a very short period of time. Fahaka are enthusiastic foragers and will be quite happy exploring the whole tank in search of food, providing that the tank is scaped as explained above (read In the aquarium) Myth about size We would like to challenge the common falsehood that captive Fahaka puffers are incapable of growing as large as wild specimens, so such large tanks are not required.  In actual fact, Fahaka puffers (like most fish) should have a better chance under captive management of achieving their full potential size than wild ones and should also live for a significantly longer time.  Under good husbandry, the Fahaka puffer should be receiving optimal nutrition through a steady supply of high-quality foods - without the seasonal famines that they would experience in the wild - and the parasites that compete with the fish for nutrients and other resources (which would go unchecked in the wild) can be completely eradicated in captivity. The water quality in their aquariums should be excellent, with no pollutants, there should be no harsh climatic conditions for the fish to deal with, and diseases can be treated quickly.  Your Fahaka puffer should also be significantly less stressed in captivity because they should not have any food competition, territorial fights with other fish and the risk of predation would be completely removed. It is well known that fish who experience less stress enjoy lower metabolic rates, more energy and stamina, can better absorb the nutrients they consume and are able to better spend that energy on growth and development. When conditions are not optimal, the fish have a lower chance of achieving full size. It is not captivity that stunts the growth of fish. It is the traditionally poor husbandry that so many Fahaka puffers have received which stunts the growth and has led to the myth that they are incapable of growing so large Water parameters Maintain the following water parameters:  PH: 6.5 - 7.5 Temp: 22 - 26°C (71.6 -78.8°F) NH3/NH4+: 0ppm N02: 0ppm N03: below 15ppm *ideal GH: 5-15 dGH Tankmates If you're looking for a calm, peaceful puffer who can live with other fish then the Fahaka is not the species you should be looking at.  Young Fahaka pufferfish rarely attack tank mates, but they typically become very aggressive, territorial and antisocial as the fish develops and begins to reach sexual maturity. It is very common for Fahaka puffers to turn on their tankmates unexpectedly, even if they have been together for a long time. Fahaka pufferfish have powerful bites and can inflict serious injuries on other fish with ease. These injuries are not always instantly fatal and it is very common for their victims to live for several days after the initial attack. We have seen Fahaka pufferfish die themselves after attacking their tank mates. These instances include huge ammonia spikes caused by the dead fish in the tank, corydoras and pleco spines becoming lodged in the throat of the Fahaka and disease caused by injuries and stress. For these reasons, we consider it highly unethical to keep other fish with the Fahaka Cohabitation  We do not recommend keeping more than one Fahaka puffer to an aquarium because they are not a social fish, and any conspecific will just be viewed as competition for food and territory, making fights incredibly likely. Sexual dimorphism There are no known methods of determining the sex of this species for the home aquarist, except that females may produce unfertilised eggs occasionally, which should be siphoned out of the aquarium as soon as possible Notable behaviour  Fahaka puffers are very sensitive creatures and they have a distinctive stress pattern that can be seen in even slightly irritated specimens. When the Fahaka is stressed its colouration will appear washed out with a darkened line stretching between the eyes (commonly referred to as a stress-brow) and dark bars which arch across the back. A Fahaka puffer may display the stress pattern during tank maintenance or if it has been spooked by something outside of the aquarium, like brightly coloured clothing or an unfamiliar object. If this behaviour is sustained and there are no obvious causes then the keeper is encouraged to investigate for other potential sources of stress Feeding The majority of the Fahaka puffer's natural diet consists of the crabs, shrimp, and snails - of all sizes - that are found in their natural habitat. Other components include worms and other benthic creatures.  Fahaka puffers also eat several species of American crayfish that are now an invasive species in their natural habitat. We encourage keepers to replicate the natural diet of their pufferfish as closely as possible. Wild Fahaka puffers eat a very diverse range of prey and it is your responsibility as a keeper of a captive Fahaka to provide as many different kinds of appropriate foods as possible. Aside from providing a variety of flavours and textures for food enrichment, a varied diet of suitable foods will supply a greater spectrum of nutrients to your fish that are essential to the health, growth, development and long lifespan of the Fahaka puffer. The following diet suggestions and food items are suitable for Fahaka puffers of all ages and sizes, but portion and food item size needs to be modulated to suit the size of the fish. Suitable foods for this species include: Frozen-thawed freshwater crabs Frozen-thawed crayfish Large terrestrial and aquatic snails Insects including Gutloaded cockroaches, crickets, locusts and woodlice Earthworms Repashy foods - eg GrubPie A high-quality, hard pellet food (protein not derived from vegetable sources We suggest breaking down the diet (as shown in the chart) to approximately 55% freshwater crabs & crayfish, 25% freshwater snails, 10% insects, 5% earthworms, and a 5% mix of foods such as Repashy and a high-quality pellet food (preferably sinking pellet). Responsibly sourced cockles can be fed, but should not be offered in any great portion and within the suggested 5% mix of food. It is best to feed several small meals throughout the day rather than offering larger, less frequent meals. This helps keep the pufferfish occupied throughout the day and allows the fish to digest smaller portions. This species should not be offered krill, mussel, clams, or oysters. Unsuitable foods can result in stunted growth and poor health. Frozen-thawed crayfish and crabs Pufferfish Enthusiasts Worldwide recommends feeding only frozen-thawed crayfish and crabs. We strongly discourage keepers from feeding live crayfish and crabs for the following reasons; It is true that these pufferfish are hunting live crayfish and crabs in the wild and there is an argument that hunting live food offers your puffer a level of enrichment that it does not receive through eating frozen-thawed. However, we believe that the risks greatly outweigh the benefits.  Very few things enjoy being eaten by pufferfish; crayfish and crabs definitely fall into the category of things that don't want to be devoured. They will try to defend themselves using their sharp claws, which can easily injure your puffer. Whilst these fish may have thick skin, we often see puffers with injured lips, cuts on their body and even missing/damaged eyes from where a live crayfish or crab has tried to defend itself. Wild Fahaka puffers often suffer from hunting injuries, many of which become infected and prove fatal for the fish. Some keepers opt for removing the claws from live crayfish and crabs before offering them to the pufferfish, however, this practice raises some serious ethical questions as mutilating the animal prior to throwing it in to be chased, crushed, and then chewed maximises that animal's suffering. It should be our primary objective as responsible and ethical keepers of predatory fish to ensure the welfare of not just the fish we keep but also that of the prey they eat by minimising the pain and suffering as far as reasonably possible. Things that do enjoy being eaten by pufferfish are the parasites that use crustaceans as intermediate hosts and will then infect your fish upon being consumed. Feeding crayfish and crabs that have not been frozen significantly increases the chances of introducing these parasites to your puffer. Dead organisms obviously can't fight back and as the freezing process kills the parasites, feeding frozen-thawed eliminates both the risk of injury and parasite transfer. Frozen crayfish and crabs must be thawed before feeding to your Fahaka puffer. Select the amount of prey that you wish to feed out of the freezer and thaw it out in the fridge the night before. Some members of PEW breed their own crayfish at home then euthanise them prior to freezing. This is a convenient method for some keepers, but it should be noted that raising enough crayfish to meet the demands of a fully grown Fahaka puffer can be very finance, space and time-consuming. Typically, the cheapest and easiest procurement of crayfish and freshwater crabs is buying them in bulk from fishmongers and Asian supermarkets. Whatever you decide to do, it is a good idea to check the availability of these food items; if that supply is reliable or subject to seasonal availability, ensure that you will be able to maintain their required diet all year round Filtration and tank maintenance This pufferfish is intolerant of poor water conditions, so a high level of biological and mechanical filtration is needed to deal with the amount of waste that this fish produces.  Good filtration combined with excellent husbandry is essential to the health of this species. Frequent water changes must be carried out to maintain NO3 (nitrate) levels below 15ppm; or as close to zero as possible.  We recommend a minimum water change of 50% every seven days. Inflation The Fahaka puffer can inflate themselves when frightened or stressed. They should never be provoked into inflating! It is common for this species to "practice puff", which is when the fish casually inflates itself for no apparent reason. It is believed that they do this to stretch and strengthen the muscles associated with inflation. "Practise puffs" are usually very short-lived. If your puffer remains inflated, investigate for sources of stress. Reference taken from https://www.pufferfishenthusiastsworldwide.com/post/fahaka-puffer-care-sheet    

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