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Fuel Lush, Rapid Plant Growth & Combat Yellowing Leaves
Give your aquatic plants the fundamental building block they need to thrive. Seachem Flourish Nitrogen™ is a concentrated blend of nitrogen compounds designed to prevent deficiency, which is a primary cause of slow growth, pale leaves, and poor plant health. Ensure your planted aquarium has a sufficient supply of this essential macronutrient for vibrant, dense, and healthy growth.
Key Features & Benefits:
Targets Nitrogen Deficiency: Directly addresses the cause of stunted growth and yellowing (chlorosis) in older leaves.
Promotes Vigorous Growth: Nitrogen is a key component of chlorophyll and amino acids, fueling lush, green, and rapid plant development.
Comprehensive Formula: Contains both nitrate and non-nitrate nitrogen sources to suit various plant uptake preferences and tank conditions.
Ideal for Heavily Planted Tanks: A must-have supplement for high-growth, high-light, and CO2-injected aquariums where nitrogen is consumed rapidly.
Safe for All Aquaria: Perfectly safe for fish, invertebrates, and beneficial bacteria when used as directed.
Product Details:
Product Name: Seachem Flourish Nitrogen™
Size: 100 ml
Type: Concentrated macronutrient supplement (Nitrogen).
Use: For all freshwater planted aquariums.
How To Use:
Dosage: Use 1 capful (5 mL) for every 500 L (125 US gallons) 2-3 times a week. Note: Dosage requirements can vary significantly based on plant mass, lighting, and fish load.
Application: For precision dosing, use a syringe. Disperse evenly into the aquarium. For maximum benefit, add after a water change.
Important: Always test your nitrate (NO3) levels regularly. Aim for a range of 5-20 ppm. Adjust your dosage of Flourish Nitrogen™ to maintain this range, especially if you have a low fish bioload.
Who is this product for?
Seachem Flourish Nitrogen™ is essential for:
Aquarists with heavily planted tanks that consume nitrogen faster than fish waste can produce it.
Keepers of "Low-Waste" tanks (e.g., tanks with few fish or shrimp-only tanks).
Anyone noticing pale or yellowing leaves, particularly on older growth.
Hobbyists using high-light and CO2 systems who need to balance their macronutrients (NPK).
The Seachem Flourish® Range:
Flourish Nitrogen™ is one part of a complete nutrient system. For optimal results, combine with:
Flourish Phosphorus™ & Flourish Potassium™: To balance all major macronutrients (NPK) and prevent lockout.
Flourish®: Provides a comprehensive base of essential micronutrients and trace elements.
Flourish Excel®: A source of bioavailable organic carbon.
Order with Confidence:
This 100ml bottle is an excellent size for small to medium aquariums or for targeted supplementation. For larger tanks, please see our larger, more economical size options.
FAQ Section (Suggested for the product page):
Q: How do I know if my plants need nitrogen?A: The classic sign of nitrogen deficiency is the yellowing (chlorosis) or fading of older, established leaves, while new growth may appear stunted or pale green.
Q: Will this increase my nitrate levels and cause algae?A: Used correctly, it prevents nitrogen deficiency, which itself can cause algae. Algae blooms are typically caused by imbalances (e.g., high nitrogen but low CO2 or phosphorus). The key is consistent, measured dosing based on tank consumption and regular testing.
Q: Is this a replacement for a comprehensive fertilizer?A: No. Flourish Nitrogen™ is a supplemental source of one specific macronutrient. Plants also require phosphorus, potassium, and a full range of micronutrients (found in Seachem Flourish®). This product is for tailoring your regimen to your tank's specific needs.
These Assorted Telescope Eyes Goldfish are perfect for coldwater aquariums. With their unique telescope-like eyes, these fish will add a fascinating touch to any tank.
Please note that most will be Black Moors.
These fish are located offsite.
The Tuxedo Endler Guppy is a popular and colorful strain of the Endler's Livebearer (Poecilia wingei) species. These small, active fish are known for their bright colors and active personalities, making them a popular choice for aquarium hobbyists.
Tuxedo Endler Guppies are known for their striking black-and-white tuxedo-like patterns, with black markings on their tails, dorsal and anal fins, and black patches on their bodies, contrasting with their white or silver bodies. They are a hardy fish that can thrive in a variety of water conditions, making them an ideal choice for beginners.
In addition to their striking appearance, Tuxedo Endler Guppies are also known for their active and playful behavior. They are social fish and do well in groups, so it's recommended to keep them in groups of six or more. They are also relatively peaceful and can be kept with other small, non-aggressive fish species. Overall, Tuxedo Endler Guppies are a beautiful and entertaining addition to a community aquarium.
SizeTo 75 mm, rarely to 100 mm. In the Coopers Creek system often to only 50 mm.
Conservation StatusWidespread and abundant throughout its range, not threatened.
HabitatA pelagic species found in great numbers often in schools of several thousand individuals. Prefers slow moving or still water, it is often found billabongs, dams, and lakes, both freshwater and saline, as well as slower sections rivers and streams. Completes its entire life cycle in freshwater although there have been some unconfirmed reports of diadromous populations.
DistributionA wide-spread species throughout the south-east of the Australian continent. Occurs in coastal drainages down the eastern seaboard from about the Fitzroy River in Queensland to the south-east corner of South Australia. Occurs extensively in tributaries in the southern part of the Murray-Darling system including the Darling downstream from around Wilcannia and a number of smaller disconnected river and creek systems in the north-western part of New South Wales extending into south western Queensland. Also found in the Coopers Creek system which drains into Lake Eyre.
ReproductionSpawns in the springtime, when water temperatures have exceeded 15°C. The spherical, transparent eggs are adhesive and around 0.8 mm in diameter, expanding to around 1 mm when water hardened. The eggs are demersal, sinking to the bottom where they stick to vegetation, bottom debris or the substrate. Females carry between 100 to 1000 eggs. The eggs hatch in 9 to 10 days at which time the larvae are around 4.5 to 5 mm in length.
DietFeeds on a wide variety of planktonic organisms, micro crustaceans, and small aquatic insects.
AnglingNot an angling species.
On the tableNot a food fish.
In the aquariumOnce established in an aquarium this species can be kept without much trouble and is an attractive, small silvery fish. Best when fed on live food such as Tubifex worms and mosquito larvae, but can be trained to dried food. Not suitable for use in a community tank, it does best when kept in small groups in single species tanks.
When handled, especially from the wild, it often suffers from high rates of stress-induced mortality, particularly if being netted, also the scales are very easily lost and this injury reportedly often results in death. Best handled when being transferred by using a plastic bag filled with water so that the fish are not directly handled at all.
This species is reported to be "frog friendly" and is therefore a good choice for a pond which also contains tadpoles. An excellent mosquito predator. Probably somewhat vulnerable to predation by birds unless provided with suitable cover such as water lilies and other aquatic vegetation.
Reference
https://www.nativefish.asn.au/home/page/Australian-Smelt
WE DON'T SEND TO TAS OR WA WITHOUT BIOSECURITY CONSENT.
Caridina sp NTnilotica - also called ""Darwin Algae Shrimp" or "algae eater shrimp"- is a freshwater species of doube periophthalmate shrimps belonging to the Atyidae family. It was named after P. Roux's research in 1833 and it has its natural habitat over Africa - between the Nile River in Egypt to Lake Sibaya in South Africa and only can be found in Lake Victoria, the source of the Nile River; on other hand according to some sources, this shrimp's homeland is northern Australia, as a significant part of resources on this species belongs there too.
There is no doubt the Darwin Algae Shrimp are often confused with Caridina Longistiris. But they differ from each other in many ways. One of their most distinctive features is that it has a white stripe extending from its head to its tail, depending on what time of day or whether it's eating something
The males are smaller and less colourful, while the females are larger and more colourful. These shrimps can reach 4-5 cm in length.
Water Parameters:
pH: 6.5-8
Hardness: soft to hard
Temperature: 18-28C
Type: Freshwater
Darwin algae shrimps prefer to live in aquariums that have high-quality clear water. Unlike snails, they can't tolerate pH levels much either and should be kept in soft or medium hardness environments. However, sudden changes to the temperature of the water will harm them too so it's best to use a heater and thermostat for stability.
Darwin algae shrimps are peaceful and will do well with tank mates that are close to its size. It is not able to live in harmony with fish that show territorial protection or large sizes. This can be a problem, as Darwin algae shrimps have been observed being eaten due to their small size from time-to-time. Aggressive and larger fish can always pose a threat, so it may get along better living tanks mates who also have calm behaviour like itself
The Caridina sp. Ntnilotica is a shrimp that's generally active in its behavior. This brave shrimp can compete with smaller fish over food and it also has the potential to be hardy if you set up the aquarium properly. If this shrimps movement slows down for just a brief moment, do not worry, as they are cautious around their tankmates so there is no need to panic when this happens! However, if this slowness continues for longer periods of time then it may be due to various diseases that have occured in your shrimp or its habitat…
The Darwin Algae Shrimp do not harm aquatic plants, and they mostly live in harmony with them. They are typically preferred to be kept in planted aquariums.
Feeding
Darwin Algae Shrimp species is a good algae eater. However, their natural feeding areas are the rocky areas densely covered in moss and algae populations. To keep them healthy, it's best to provide an adequate amount of algae or establish one in your tank by exposing rocks or other decorations to high light and moving them into your shrimp tank. If you don't have any on hand - they can be fed dry food occasionally. In addition, if there are microorganisms present that are substantial enough - they will eat those too! But first choice will always be the algae available for consumption.
Breeding
Little information is available about the reproduction of Darwin Algae Shrimp. There are some observations in Australia for mating time. For instance, before mating, female molts and is surrounded by males during this molting period. After mating the female carries gray eggs that she incubates until they hatch into juvenile shrimp who resemble their parents and then move to a freshwater environment when they grow up in natural conditions (in captivity juveniles must be manually taken from half-strength saltwater over to freshwater). But it's important to provide proper food sources like plankton or otherwise juvenile shrimps will not survive as well
Do we have the real deal?
A lot of sellers online normally sell Glass Shrimps (Paratya australiensis) and it is very easy to make this mistake as well. In order to resolve the species that we have in stock we have unknowingly done the following:
We accidentally sent invertebrates to a customer in Western Australia and it had been ceased by WA Quarantine as Inverts are not allowed in WA. Due to this the package was ceased and awaiting euthanisation. However while waiting for euthanisation the Quarantine Officer decided to put this up for testing. The initial test discovered that this was classified as Paratya australiensis. However later in the day it was pointed that it was a human error where the pheonotype that was used was Paratya australiensis in the WA Quarantine Database. This has been subsequently resolved and the correct name has been established for this species which is Caridina longisrostris.
Due to this knowledge and by direct confirmation from Quarantine WA (July 2020). NTA is confident that we sell Caridina longisrostris and not Paratya australiensis.
When you purchase from NTA be assured that you will be getting the real shrimps that has been sustainably harvested by a licensed collector from Far North Queensland.
What is it good for?
Caridina longisrostris is useless on algae that is stuck on the glass or on rocks that has a smooth texture. They will not touch these kinds of algae and it is better that you use Otocinclus for this.
What Caridina longisrostris is good for is Black Beard Algae BBA or Green Algae. They will also eat dead or decaying leaves.
If there are none of the above they will eat the biofilm in the tank.
ONLY if there is nothing left they will eat live plants. However this is very unlikely to occur.
Also, another component that we have observed is that these shrimps will eat left over fish food and also will cannibalise if one of the shrimps is weak or there is a failed molt. They will also attack dead fish.
Is it right for you?
If you enjoy efficient algae cleaning machine this shrimp is for you. When you buy 6 or more it is safe to put it in a Betta tank as well.
Photo credit by Indir Tupkovic. Used with Permission. All rights reserved.
Caridina gracilirostris - also known as the Pinocchio Shrimp, Red-Nosed Shrimp, and Rocket Shrimp, the Rhinoceros Shrimp has a large, rhinoceros-shaped nose. Other names for the shrimp are Rocket, Mosquito, and Needlenose (which make sense when you see how this shrimp moves).
Natural Habitat
Caridina gracilirostris is found throughout Madagascar, Japan, Cambodia, Fiji, India, Indonesia (Kalimantan, Lesser Sunda Is., Papua, Sulawesi, Sumatera), Malaysia (Peninsular Malaysia, Sarawak), Palau, Philippines, Singapore, Province of China (Provinces of China (main island)), Taiwan and Thailand.
Characteristics and Behaviour
Red Nose shrimp have a transparent body usually with the exception of males, who feature vivid red noses. But if their nose snaps off, these creatures are actually able to regenerate it. Please do not mutilate them on purpose!
Pinocchio shrimp don't behave much differently from other caridinas. They are good-natured and will spend most of their time scavenging for food, but they're especially skilled at cleaning up your aquarium from algae and plant matter. Watching them is entertaining because Pinocchio shrimps are fast swimmers!
Ideal Water Conditions and Environment
The red nose shrimp, a type of freshwater crustacean that originates from brackish water, is difficult to keep in a freshwater tank. They require some level of salinity and keeping an eye on your water parameters will be necessary if you decide to keep these shrimp in your tank. It is recommended that you fill the aquarium with vegetation like bumblebee gobies and anubias because they will provide nutrition for the shrimps as well as hiding spots- things that shouldn't be taken for granted.
RECOMMENDED TANK PARAMETERS:
Minimum tank size: 2 gallons, recommended 10-gallon minimum for a colony
Temperature: 75° - 80° F (23.8° - 26.6° C)
pH: 7.0 - 8.0
dGH: 4 - 15
dKH: 1 - 10
TDS: 100 - 200
Breeding
Breeding Red Nose Shrimp in freshwater is a near-impossible task, so we recommend moving your Red Nose Shrimp to brackish water tanks for the purpose of mating. It's especially important that red nose shrimplets have access to biofilms and microscopic food particles as they are very tiny and will need it.
Diet
Red Nose Shrimp are fun algae eaters for the aquarium. They enjoy picking at biofilm and algae, but you should offer them a healthy mix of shrimp pellets and some frozen foods along with some blanched veggies to keep them healthy.
Tank Mates
Tankmates are limited for Pinocchio shrimp due to their saltwater habitat requirements and small size. They can fall prey to hungry fish, so you may want to go with brackish-water invertebrates as tankmates. Try Nerite snails from the Clithon genus, Hawaiian volcano shrimp (Halocaridina rubra) and certain brackish-proof ghost shrimp varieties. The tiny bumblebee goby might work; although it's carnivorous in nature, it is probably too small to eat adult shrimp.
These shrimps are originally located in Darwin.
Photo credit by Indir Tupkovic. Used with Permission. All rights reserved.
Ref
https://aquariumbreeder.com/red-nose-shrimp-detailed-guide-care-diet-and-breeding/
This Albino Blue Topaz Guppy features two distinct genders, male and female. This unique trait allows for the creation of vibrant and varied varieties of color in the fish. The Albino Blue Topaz Guppy is sure to enhance any aquarium.
Discover the exquisite C123 Yellowfin Corydoras,where delicate spotted patterns meet vibrant fin coloration! These graceful bottom-dwellers combine a beautiful silver body adorned with dark spots and stunning yellow-tinged fins, creating a truly elegant display in any aquarium.
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Key Features & Highlights
· 🎨 ELEGANT SPOTTED PATTERN: Beautiful dark spots scattered across a shimmering silver body, creating a sophisticated and eye-catching appearance
· 💛 VIBRANT YELLOW FIN ACCENTS: Stunning yellow coloration on dorsal and tail fins that intensifies with proper care and maturity
· 💎 RARE COLLECTOR'S SPECIES: A highly sought-after variety prized by corydoras enthusiasts for its unique combination of patterns and colors
· 👨👩👧👦 ACTIVE SCHOOLING BEHAVIOR: Thrives in groups of 6+, displaying fascinating social dynamics and synchronized foraging behaviors
· 🍃 EFFICIENT SUBSTRATE CLEANER: Excellent scavengers that help maintain tank cleanliness while adding constant activity to the bottom level
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Detailed Description
Meet the C123 Yellowfin Corydoras - a true masterpiece of nature that brings elegance and activity to your aquarium! This exceptional variety stands out with its perfect blend of delicate spotted patterning and vibrant fin coloration. Each fish is a unique work of art, with spots arranged in distinctive patterns that create a mesmerizing display when a school moves together.
What makes the C123 Yellowfin particularly special is its graceful presence. Unlike some more boldly patterned corydoras, this variety offers subtle sophistication with its silver background and carefully placed spots, complemented by the warm yellow glow of its fins. Watching a group of these elegant catfish work their way across your substrate is like observing a living, moving tapestry.
These peaceful community fish are not just beautiful to look at - they're hardworking members of your aquarium's cleanup crew. Their constant foraging helps keep your substrate clean while their gentle nature makes them perfect companions for other peaceful tank inhabitants.
Perfect For:
· Planted community aquariums
· Corydoras collectors and enthusiasts
· Peaceful species tanks
· Elegant aquascapes
· Bottom-dwelling cleanup crews
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Specifications & Care Guide
Parameter Requirement
Scientific Name Corydoras sp. C123
Common Names Yellowfin Corydoras, Spotted Elegans Cory
Tank Size 20+ gallons for a school
Temperature 72°F - 79°F (22°C - 26°C)
pH Range 6.0-7.5
Water Hardness Soft to moderately hard (2-15 dGH)
Adult Size 2-2.5 inches (5-6 cm)
Diet Omnivorous - sinking pellets, wafers, frozen foods
Lifespan 5-8 years with proper care
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Care & Feeding
Tank Setup:
· Essential: Fine sand substrate to protect delicate barbels
· Recommended: Dark substrate to enhance coloration
· Multiple hiding spots and smooth decor
· Peaceful community environment
Diet:
· High-quality sinking pellets and wafers
· Frozen and live foods (bloodworms, brine shrimp)
· Color-enhancing foods to maintain vibrancy
· Regular vegetable supplements
Social Structure:
· Keep in groups of 6+ individuals
· Becomes more active and displays natural behaviors in proper schools
· Peaceful with all tank mates
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Important Considerations
· ⚠️ GROUP REQUIREMENT: Must be kept in groups of 6+ for natural behavior and well-being
· 🚫 SENSITIVE BARBELS: Requires smooth sand substrate to prevent barbel damage and infection
· 💛 COLOR ENHANCEMENT: Yellow fin coloration intensifies with high-quality diet and optimal water conditions
· 🐠 PEACEFUL TANKMATES ONLY: Keep with other gentle, non-aggressive species
· 🌿 PLANT SAFE: Will not damage aquarium plants
· 💧 CLEAN WATER: Requires good filtration and regular maintenance
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Live Arrival Guarantee
Our C123 Yellowfin Corydoras are carefully acclimated and conditioned for shipping. Each order includes detailed care instructions and our live arrival guarantee ensures your premium fish arrive healthy and ready for their new home.
Ready to add these elegant spotted beauties to your aquarium? Bring home the stunning C123 Yellowfin Corydoras today!
Corydoras Venezuela, also known as Venezuelan Corydoras or Corydoras adolfoi, is a small, peaceful catfish species that originates from the Orinoco River basin in Venezuela. These charming catfish are known for their striking appearance, with a unique pattern of black spots and bands on a light-colored body. They have a streamlined shape, with long barbels around their mouths that they use to search for food in the substrate.
In addition to their eye-catching appearance, Corydoras Venezuela are known for their peaceful and social nature, making them great additions to community aquariums. They are generally peaceful with other fish species, and are best kept in groups of 5 or more to promote their natural shoaling behavior. Corydoras Venezuela are also hardy and easy to care for, making them suitable for beginner and experienced aquarists alike.
These catfish are omnivorous, and their diet consists of a variety of foods including high-quality dry pellets, frozen or live foods such as bloodworms, brine shrimp, and daphnia, as well as vegetable-based foods like algae wafers or blanched vegetables. They are bottom-dwelling fish that will actively forage in the substrate for food, helping to keep your aquarium clean.
At Nano Tanks Australia Aquarium Shop, we take pride in offering healthy and high-quality Corydoras Venezuela to our customers. Whether you're a seasoned hobbyist or just starting out, these captivating catfish are sure to add beauty, charm, and activity to your aquarium. Don't hesitate to contact us for expert advice or browse our selection online. Get your Corydoras Venezuela from Nano Tanks Australia Aquarium Shop today and elevate your aquarium to the next level! Happy fishkeeping!
Synodontis Petricola: The most peaceful freshwater fish
Overview:
Synodontis petricola is a catfish which grows up to 4 inches long. The species can be found in Lake Tanganyika, and it’s rare amongst aquarists because of how hard they are to find! This freshwater fish are the most peaceful of its kind, and with their inquisitive nature, they benefit well from stimulating décor arrangements. Housing them in a LakeTanganyika biotope setup is advised; giving enough open water for swimming as well as using rocks to form caves for exploration. Dim lighting will encourage the fish do more social activities amidst themselves.
Fish Keeping Guide
Classification
Mochokidae
Name Origin
Synodontis: Ancient name for an undetermined fish from the Nile
Petricola: A dweller among rocks.
Care Level
Medium
Fish Size
This species grows to a length of 10.2 centimetres (4.0 in)
Water Temperature
24-28°C
pH
7.5-8.5
Water hardness
10-35 dH
Aquarium Size Required
36″ x 12″ x 12″ (90x30x30cm) – 80 litres
Gender Differences
Females more round in shape and a darker colour
Feed
Sinking pellets, although will also benefit from frozen and live foods
Compatibility
Should only be kept with larger Tetras, Barbs, and Gourami in a community set up that like harder water quality. Ideal tank mates with most Cichlids, especially African Mouthbrooders
Characteristics:
The Synodontis petricola is light brown in color and covered by numerous, irregular dark brown spots. It has smaller ones on its head and ventral region, with white tips and a darker base on the pectoral fins, dorsal fins as well as the anal fin. Its humeral process is trilateral or three sided; it also has gill openings that do not cross over the pectoral fin spine.
Behaviour:
Synodontis Petricola are good-natured and sociable fish that do best when kept in groups of 3-4 or more; if kept singularly, they can be quite cautious, preferring to hide among rocks or caves.If you have appropriately sized rainbowfish, livebearers and water cichlid communities in your tank, Synodontis petricola makes a great tank mate. However it's not advised to house them with fish that are too small for their size as they might be mistaken for food.
Breeding
The Syndontis Petricola are known for their reproduction in aquaria. Whilst they reproduce quite often in open waters, this species is unusual due to the fact that it is one of a few fish who have a breeding method called 'Brood Parasitism'. The Syndontis Petricola time their spawning to coincide with African Mouthbreeders and lay eggs near theirs. As the catfish eggs hatch, young fry consume mouthbrooder's eggs and are protected by unsuspecting cichlids.The most effective way to breed Syndontis Petricola in captivity is to raise the eggs in a separate breeding tank. It is also recommended that adults are removed from the fish tank once they have spawned so as not to eat their own eggs. Spawning of pairs or flocks, ample frozen and live feed should be provided for them.
With a standard length of 45cm (17.72 inches), the Fahaka puffer is the second largest freshwater pufferfish, second to the Tetraodon mbu.
They can be found in rivers and lakes and are known to inhabit heavily sheltered areas of water across the entire length of the Nile River. It can be found throughout Eastern Africa, Northern Africa, Northeast Africa and Western Africa.
They prey predominantly on snails, small freshwater crabs, insect larvae and other benthic creatures
The Fahaka is not bred commercially so all specimens available for sale are wild-caught.
Wild-caught juvenile Fahaka are reasonably common in most areas of the world. Collection for the aquatic trade is not considered a threat but the number of individuals taken from the wild or the size of wild populations is not known.
The Fahaka was assessed in 2019 and the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) classifies the species as 'Least Concern'. However, changes in habitats due to human activity (agriculture, aquaculture, and pollution) may threaten the species in future.
According to several sources, the Fahaka puffer is also harvested for human consumption.
In the aquarium
The Fahaka is a medium-large and intelligent species of pufferfish, so it requires a large aquarium with a complex and enriching scape design to keep it occupied.
This pufferfish avoids open areas of water in its natural habitat because it feels too exposed and the same is true in aquariums, so the tank must offer the pufferfish areas in which it can take cover.
This is especially important in young Fahaka puffers or newly imported adults. A busy scape will help them feel more safe and secure, and their confidence will grow in time. You can give an enriching aquarium by providing an elaborate scape with lots of caves and hiding spaces to explore, but keep their size in mind and maintain plenty of open swimming space too. You can heavily decorate a tank for a juvenile and then enlarge the open areas as the fish grows.
An appropriately scaped tank will help the large yet shy Fahaka puffer feel secure and confident, knowing that it can take cover quickly if needed which will result in more assertive and explorative behaviours.
Fahaka puffers are often plant biters and plants with long, thin shoots, such as Tiger Lotus, Crinum calamistratum and Crypt balansae, will likely be decimated by the pufferfish within a short period of time. Even the toughest plants, such as Anubias, will suffer from the occasional attack, so it is important to choose hardy species which can withstand and recover from these bites. Plants like Anubias, Java Fern, Bolbitis and Amazon Sword are good choices for these fish. Floating plants, such as Amazon Frogbit, give dappled shade which is also appreciated by this fish.
Cheap stem plants, such as Limnophila sessiliflora grow well in the sand substrate. The fish will bite at the plants, but they will quickly recover because they grow so fast.
The flow in the aquarium should be medium to strong, but never overpowering. The strength of the flow is usually achieved with spray bars from canister filters angled towards the top of the water. By keeping a slightly dropped water level, so that the returning water from the filter splashes down onto the surface, it will create the agitation required whilst also facilitating gas exchange for high levels of oxygenation.
Powerheads with narrow gaps in the grill may be used to create additional flow. We would advise that cages or guards (such as anemone guards) are used on powerheads to prevent injury to the fish if they become trapped. Avoid any exposed power cables into the aquarium as a Fahaka puffer can easily bite through them.
With the correct care, the Fahaka can live in excess of 20 years.
A fish that lives for 20+ years will be with you through a lot of changes in your life, so these fish obviously represent a long-term commitment.
Substrate
The Fahaka is a wallowing species of pufferfish and should always be provided with a substrate that allows it to indulge in this natural behaviour.
A usable substrate is a critical component of enrichment for this fish. They wallow for several reasons, such as to hunt, to avoid the detection of bigger predators (who might eat them), or simply just to safely rest.
Pufferfish dig into the substrate by nose-diving the ground and using their powerful tails to push their whole body forward into the substrate. If the substrate is too hard or abrasive then it may cause scrapes and scratches which could be painful for the fish and predispose it to bacterial and/or fungal infections. Fungal and bacterial organisms will take full advantage of even minor abrasions, so it is important that we do everything we can to prevent such injuries. As a general rule, fine sand is the best option for any wallowing species of pufferfish. The softer/smoother the sand is, the better for the pufferfish.
Play sand or Pool Filter sand can also be used, providing that it is fine enough and doesn't contain any potentially harmful chemicals. Gravel and plant-soil/substrates are unsuitable for the Fahaka and may cause injury if the fish attempts to wallow in it. Any sharp or coarse pieces should be avoided/removed.
The depth of the sand should always match the depth of the fish's body. It is recommended to start as shallow as possible and then gradually increase the depth of the substrate as the fish grows. This fish will disturb the substrate on a regular basis by moving from place to place within the sand, but it is recommended that the keeper regularly stirs up the substrate to stop the sand from ‘compacting’ to prevent the build-up of anaerobic bacterial populations. The depth of substrate required for an adult Fahaka puffer will need stirring at least once a week.
The Fahaka can adjust their colouration to better blend in with their surroundings. We recommend using paler substrates which will encourage the fish to display its most visually appealing colouration.
Bare-bottomed / Tile-bottomed Tanks
Some keepers may choose a bare-bottomed or Tile-bottomed aquarium because they feel they are easier to keep clean or may find it more visually appealing for themselves, but the primary concern when designing an aquarium should always be the welfare of the animals that you intend to keep in it.
Bare-bottomed tanks deny a wallower the opportunity to express its natural behaviour and the keeper should never elect to deprive an animal of crucial enrichment.
A Fahaka puffer is healthiest and happiest when they are given a suitable substrate.
The only time bare-bottomed tanks should be considered is during the initial quarantine or during worming treatment.
Tank size
As the Fahaka puffer can achieve lengths exceeding 45cm (17.72 inches), Pufferfish Enthusiasts Worldwide recommends a tank no smaller than 5x2x2 (60"x24"x24") for a Fahaka puffer. This translates to a tank volume of approximately 570 litres / 150 US gallons.
The dimensions of the tank are the most important facet of suitability, not the amount of water it can hold. A five-foot tank is only just over 3x the length of a fully grown, healthy Fahaka puffer and the 2 feet depth (front to back) only just allows a 17" fish to turn around within and change its course; so we are sure you can appreciate why we would not want to go any smaller than this.
We would like to stress that a 5x2x2 tank is what we consider as the absolute minimum for this fish and that bigger always equals better.
Old care guides, commonly authored by English keepers, recommend a "120 gallon tank", but they are actually referring to Imperial gallons, which is roughly 150 US gallons. Imperial gallons and US liquid gallons do not share an equilibrium and this is important to recognise.
The second factor that you must consider is the tank's dimensions. A tank may contain the recommended 120 Imperial gallons, but the dimensions may be incorrect for the fish. For example, cylinder or corner tanks of 120 Imperial gallons would be totally unsuitable for Fahaka.
The growth rate of Fahaka
The Fahaka grows incredibly quickly when the care is correct.
Young Fahaka need to grow quickly in the wild or they will soon be eaten by bigger fish.
The Fahaka has an initial growth spurt, in which it grows very quickly. You should expect a healthy Fahaka to grow at least 2.5 cm (1 inch) every four weeks for the first 10 months of its life, with the remainder of its growth being achieved in the following 12 months.
For this reason, we don't actually recommend grow-out tanks for this species. We strongly encourage keepers to put the fish straight into their forever tank. This will avoid stunting and the extra expense of buying multiple tanks over a very short period of time. Fahaka are enthusiastic foragers and will be quite happy exploring the whole tank in search of food, providing that the tank is scaped as explained above (read In the aquarium)
Myth about size
We would like to challenge the common falsehood that captive Fahaka puffers are incapable of growing as large as wild specimens, so such large tanks are not required.
In actual fact, Fahaka puffers (like most fish) should have a better chance under captive management of achieving their full potential size than wild ones and should also live for a significantly longer time.
Under good husbandry, the Fahaka puffer should be receiving optimal nutrition through a steady supply of high-quality foods - without the seasonal famines that they would experience in the wild - and the parasites that compete with the fish for nutrients and other resources (which would go unchecked in the wild) can be completely eradicated in captivity. The water quality in their aquariums should be excellent, with no pollutants, there should be no harsh climatic conditions for the fish to deal with, and diseases can be treated quickly.
Your Fahaka puffer should also be significantly less stressed in captivity because they should not have any food competition, territorial fights with other fish and the risk of predation would be completely removed. It is well known that fish who experience less stress enjoy lower metabolic rates, more energy and stamina, can better absorb the nutrients they consume and are able to better spend that energy on growth and development.
When conditions are not optimal, the fish have a lower chance of achieving full size.
It is not captivity that stunts the growth of fish. It is the traditionally poor husbandry that so many Fahaka puffers have received which stunts the growth and has led to the myth that they are incapable of growing so large
Water parameters
Maintain the following water parameters:
PH: 6.5 - 7.5
Temp: 22 - 26°C (71.6 -78.8°F)
NH3/NH4+: 0ppm
N02: 0ppm
N03: below 15ppm *ideal
GH: 5-15 dGH
Tankmates
If you're looking for a calm, peaceful puffer who can live with other fish then the Fahaka is not the species you should be looking at.
Young Fahaka pufferfish rarely attack tank mates, but they typically become very aggressive, territorial and antisocial as the fish develops and begins to reach sexual maturity. It is very common for Fahaka puffers to turn on their tankmates unexpectedly, even if they have been together for a long time. Fahaka pufferfish have powerful bites and can inflict serious injuries on other fish with ease. These injuries are not always instantly fatal and it is very common for their victims to live for several days after the initial attack. We have seen Fahaka pufferfish die themselves after attacking their tank mates. These instances include huge ammonia spikes caused by the dead fish in the tank, corydoras and pleco spines becoming lodged in the throat of the Fahaka and disease caused by injuries and stress.
For these reasons, we consider it highly unethical to keep other fish with the Fahaka
Cohabitation
We do not recommend keeping more than one Fahaka puffer to an aquarium because they are not a social fish, and any conspecific will just be viewed as competition for food and territory, making fights incredibly likely.
Sexual dimorphism
There are no known methods of determining the sex of this species for the home aquarist, except that females may produce unfertilised eggs occasionally, which should be siphoned out of the aquarium as soon as possible
Notable behaviour
Fahaka puffers are very sensitive creatures and they have a distinctive stress pattern that can be seen in even slightly irritated specimens. When the Fahaka is stressed its colouration will appear washed out with a darkened line stretching between the eyes (commonly referred to as a stress-brow) and dark bars which arch across the back.
A Fahaka puffer may display the stress pattern during tank maintenance or if it has been spooked by something outside of the aquarium, like brightly coloured clothing or an unfamiliar object. If this behaviour is sustained and there are no obvious causes then the keeper is encouraged to investigate for other potential sources of stress
Feeding
The majority of the Fahaka puffer's natural diet consists of the crabs, shrimp, and snails - of all sizes - that are found in their natural habitat. Other components include worms and other benthic creatures.
Fahaka puffers also eat several species of American crayfish that are now an invasive species in their natural habitat.
We encourage keepers to replicate the natural diet of their pufferfish as closely as possible. Wild Fahaka puffers eat a very diverse range of prey and it is your responsibility as a keeper of a captive Fahaka to provide as many different kinds of appropriate foods as possible.
Aside from providing a variety of flavours and textures for food enrichment, a varied diet of suitable foods will supply a greater spectrum of nutrients to your fish that are essential to the health, growth, development and long lifespan of the Fahaka puffer.
The following diet suggestions and food items are suitable for Fahaka puffers of all ages and sizes, but portion and food item size needs to be modulated to suit the size of the fish.
Suitable foods for this species include:
Frozen-thawed freshwater crabs
Frozen-thawed crayfish
Large terrestrial and aquatic snails
Insects including Gutloaded cockroaches, crickets, locusts and woodlice
Earthworms
Repashy foods - eg GrubPie
A high-quality, hard pellet food (protein not derived from vegetable sources
We suggest breaking down the diet (as shown in the chart) to approximately 55% freshwater crabs & crayfish, 25% freshwater snails, 10% insects, 5% earthworms, and a 5% mix of foods such as Repashy and a high-quality pellet food (preferably sinking pellet).
Responsibly sourced cockles can be fed, but should not be offered in any great portion and within the suggested 5% mix of food.
It is best to feed several small meals throughout the day rather than offering larger, less frequent meals. This helps keep the pufferfish occupied throughout the day and allows the fish to digest smaller portions.
This species should not be offered krill, mussel, clams, or oysters.
Unsuitable foods can result in stunted growth and poor health.
Frozen-thawed crayfish and crabs
Pufferfish Enthusiasts Worldwide recommends feeding only frozen-thawed crayfish and crabs.
We strongly discourage keepers from feeding live crayfish and crabs for the following reasons;
It is true that these pufferfish are hunting live crayfish and crabs in the wild and there is an argument that hunting live food offers your puffer a level of enrichment that it does not receive through eating frozen-thawed. However, we believe that the risks greatly outweigh the benefits.
Very few things enjoy being eaten by pufferfish; crayfish and crabs definitely fall into the category of things that don't want to be devoured. They will try to defend themselves using their sharp claws, which can easily injure your puffer.
Whilst these fish may have thick skin, we often see puffers with injured lips, cuts on their body and even missing/damaged eyes from where a live crayfish or crab has tried to defend itself. Wild Fahaka puffers often suffer from hunting injuries, many of which become infected and prove fatal for the fish.
Some keepers opt for removing the claws from live crayfish and crabs before offering them to the pufferfish, however, this practice raises some serious ethical questions as mutilating the animal prior to throwing it in to be chased, crushed, and then chewed maximises that animal's suffering. It should be our primary objective as responsible and ethical keepers of predatory fish to ensure the welfare of not just the fish we keep but also that of the prey they eat by minimising the pain and suffering as far as reasonably possible.
Things that do enjoy being eaten by pufferfish are the parasites that use crustaceans as intermediate hosts and will then infect your fish upon being consumed. Feeding crayfish and crabs that have not been frozen significantly increases the chances of introducing these parasites to your puffer. Dead organisms obviously can't fight back and as the freezing process kills the parasites, feeding frozen-thawed eliminates both the risk of injury and parasite transfer.
Frozen crayfish and crabs must be thawed before feeding to your Fahaka puffer. Select the amount of prey that you wish to feed out of the freezer and thaw it out in the fridge the night before.
Some members of PEW breed their own crayfish at home then euthanise them prior to freezing. This is a convenient method for some keepers, but it should be noted that raising enough crayfish to meet the demands of a fully grown Fahaka puffer can be very finance, space and time-consuming. Typically, the cheapest and easiest procurement of crayfish and freshwater crabs is buying them in bulk from fishmongers and Asian supermarkets.
Whatever you decide to do, it is a good idea to check the availability of these food items; if that supply is reliable or subject to seasonal availability, ensure that you will be able to maintain their required diet all year round
Filtration and tank maintenance
This pufferfish is intolerant of poor water conditions, so a high level of biological and mechanical filtration is needed to deal with the amount of waste that this fish produces.
Good filtration combined with excellent husbandry is essential to the health of this species. Frequent water changes must be carried out to maintain NO3 (nitrate) levels below 15ppm; or as close to zero as possible. We recommend a minimum water change of 50% every seven days.
Inflation
The Fahaka puffer can inflate themselves when frightened or stressed. They should never be provoked into inflating!
It is common for this species to "practice puff", which is when the fish casually inflates itself for no apparent reason. It is believed that they do this to stretch and strengthen the muscles associated with inflation.
"Practise puffs" are usually very short-lived. If your puffer remains inflated, investigate for sources of stress.
Reference taken from
https://www.pufferfishenthusiastsworldwide.com/post/fahaka-puffer-care-sheet
Described By:
(Boulenger), 1915
😊 Description
Temperament
Peaceful Predator
Colour Form
Varied Bright Colours.
Males - Coloured Tails ♂️
Females - Plain Tails ♀️
Lifespan
Roughly 5 years
Diet
🥩 Carnivores - feeds on pellets, live foods and frozen foods.
Minimum Tank Size
20 Litres
Tank Setup
Plants - Such as Duckweed, Anubias or Java Fern with many rocks and woods. Such as Dragon Stone, Dragon Wood, Quan Woods.
Compatibility
Peaceful - However due to the size please be aware that it can be eaten by bigger fish.
To keep your Clown Killifish happy, their habitat should be well lit, water parameters excellent, and a gentle current from the filter set. If you give your clown Killies these conditions, they can live for 5 years!
Rocket Killie
Clown Killies are also known as rocket killies and banded panchax. Coming from western Africa, they are found in southern Guinea, Liberia, and Sierra Leone. The Clown Killifish is a peaceful micro-predator that feeds primarily on tiny flying insects and invertebrates.
😊 Can we expect some clowning around?
Clown Killifish are shy (they are rather small) but they will become more playful when in a group, so expect some interesting schooling behaviour. They even enjoy jumping out of the water for some fun! Make sure to keep their tank lid tightly fitted so that these fish can have as much space as possible to live and play around without the risk of an excursion on the floor.
😊 A unique look
Clown Killifish are also called Rocket Killies because they resemble tiny rockets. In addition, they have torpedo-shaped bodies that help them swim up for food, and they even appear as a fishy clown with round heads and spade-like tails.
😊 Keeping Clown Killifish in the Aquarium
You can choose to house Clown Killies in larger community tanks that are already occupied by other species. The downside is the fish won't reproduce as often if they're placed with another type of inhabitant, so you should know what kind of goal you have for keeping these types of fishes before giving them a home.
😊 Are these fish easy to breed?
If you have a male and female in your tank, don't worry about mating. Just maintain healthy water parameters to keep them alive, and they will breed when it's the right time every month! Clown Killies are prolific parents who can produce up to 25 fry per cycle - twice each month until their population numbers get out of hand!
😊 Feeding your Clown Killies
Clown Killies are carnivores that need a lot of meaty protein, but they can only eat tiny portions. They lay in wait for the insects to land on the water's surface and then eat their prey - or what could be considered for them a tasty meat morsel!
Ideally, in captivity, we can try mimicking what can be in the natural environment: baby brine shrimp 1-2 times a day should do it!
There is advice on other foods on the internet but realistically, sticking with brine shrimp for a treat is good enough and achievable without spending a fortune.
PLEASE CONTACT US FIRST BEFORE YOU ORDER ANY FEMALES AS WE WILL HAVE TO CHECK OUR STOCK!
Described By:
Géry & Uj, 1987
😊 Description
Temperament
Peaceful Predator
Colour Form
Varied Bright Colours.
Not Sexually Dimorphic - difference only when eggs are present.
Lifespan
Roughly 2 years
Diet
🥩🌿 Omnivores - feeds on pellets, live foods and frozen foods.
Minimum Tank Size
20 Litres
Tank Setup
Plants - Such as Duckweed, Anubias or Java Fern with many rocks and woods. Such as Dragon Stone, Dragon Wood, Quan Woods.
Compatibility
Peaceful - However due to the size please be aware that it can be eaten by bigger fish.
😊 Habitat
Little information appears to exist but presumably inhabits minor tributaries, backwaters and oxbow lakes rather than main river channels. In the Araguaia drainage such habitats typically contain soft, weakly acidic water with the substrate covered by a layer of fallen leaves and branches.
😊 How many ember tetras in a 10 gallon tank?
In a 10 gallon tank you can have around 12 - 18 ember tetras.
😊 How many ember tetras in a 5 gallon tank?
In a 10 gallon tank you can have around 6 ember tetras.
😊 How to breed ember tetras?
Ember Tetras are egg scatterers. Most people don't really bother with breeding Ember Tetras as they are a low value fish. In Australia, if you were going to breed anything, consider breeding fighting fish or shrimps.
😊 What do ember tetras eat?
We recommend you provide Ember Tetras with plenty of varied foods like Hikari Micro Pellets or Prestige Bettas Golden Pearl Fry Foods.
Interesting Facts About The Ramshorn Snails
Overview
Ramshorn Snail is a prevalent aquarium species that plays a significant role in keeping your tank clean. They feed on decayed plants, fish waste, debris, algae buildup, and uneaten fish food. These aquatic snails sneak their way through tanks, hitch themselves and lay eggs to live plants. Depending on the objective, these aquarium tank mates can serve as a helpful cleaner or be a pest.
Compared to other types of snail, Ramshorns require minimal snail care that making them one of the top species in the aquarium trade. As a result, these snails are available to most pet stores nowadays.
Characteristics
Ramshorn snails differ significantly in their appearance. Both its skin and shell can be different in colors, creating numerous color combinations. There are varieties such as common, pink, blue, and red ramshorn snails.
Their typical skin color is either red or black. Red snails have a vibrant color because of their red blood hemoglobins. On the other hand, Black snails have melanin pigment that the red ones don't possess.
Unlike other freshwater snails, Ramshorns don't have an operculum. As a result, these snails are not able to breathe underwater and must breathe air instead.
Ramshorn snails are hermaphrodites that can grow up to 1 inch as they get older. Their average life span is in between 1 to 3 years.
Tank requirements
Ramshorns are solitary and peaceful snails that can quickly adapt to various water conditions.
These freshwater aquarium snails love planted tanks and enjoy stable water quality. However, they are mainly being targeted by aggressive fish, so keeping them with the peaceful ones is necessary.
The ideal tank size should be at least a 5-gallon tank, but it is advisable to upgrade into a 10-gallon tank if you're planning to keep multiple snails.
Water Parameters
Ph Level: 7 - 8
Hardness (GH) : 7 - 15
Carbonate Hardness (KH): 8
Nitrate: Below 20 ppm
Temperature: 70°F – 78°F
Tankmates
More extensive, aggressive fish are mainly targeting ramshorn snails. It ideal keep them with peaceful tankmates like shrimp, clams, friendly snails, gourami, danios, and teras.
Note: Some aggressive snails like the Assassin snail love to devour pond snails, ramshorn snails, and Malaysian trumpet snails.
Feeding
Before anything else, it is vital to be sure that the food you will serve to your snails is copper-free as they could quickly die from it. By any chance, If you cannot avoid putting copper-contained products into your tank, it is highly recommended to transfer the snails to a different aquarium.
Ramshorn snails are can easily be fed, and one of their favorites is algae. They are bound to search for algae all over the tank. They also feast on rotting plants, dead shrimp and fish, uneaten food like pellets and fish flakes.
You can always give them some treats like algae wafers and vegetables like cauliflower, lettuce, cucumber, and squash.
Breeding
all you need to have is at least two of them because ramshorn snails are hermaphrodites, meaning they have sexual organs of both male and female. And because of that, they could quickly breed with any other snail.
These snails lay multiple egg clusters all over the tank. Each group contains an average of 12 eggs. And after few days, the baby snails will be visible from the inside.
* * * FROZEN FOOD * * * *
For saltwater and freshwater fish or for turtles as an occasional treat. Includes 35 portions that can broken off.
Ingredients: Blood worms, multi-vitamins, water for processing.
Made in Indonesia.
Shipping is only available for quantities 20 or more.
Please note that you should be using FROZEN FOODS as the appropriate shipment method
Welcome the beauty of the Zebra (Panda) Angel Fishinto your home! This exquisite fish boasts vibrant black scales and a graceful, flowing tail that will be sure to spark admiration.
Overview
Synonyms
Labrus trichopterus, Trichopus trichopterus, Trichopus sepat, Trichogaster trichopterus, Osphromenus siamensis, Osphromenus insulatus
Distribution
A captive bred colour form
Maximum Size
15cm (6")
Temperature
23-30°C
Water Parameters
Will acclimatise to a wide range of conditions. pH: 6-8, dH: 5-20 degrees.
Compatibility
Community with no long-finned fish
Lighting
No special requirements
Sexual Dimorphism
Males have a longer and more pointed dorsal fin.
Feeding
Flake, granules and frozen foods
Description
Care
Gold Gouramis are a domesticated strain of Blue gourami and are a familiar sight in community set ups. Males are inclined to be rather competitive with one another and show the marbled pattern seen in other forms when at their most assertive. These fish have long been used as a larger accent fish amongst smaller shoaling species and the key to successful cohabitation is to keep them occupied. Although gouramis are often sold as pairs, these are not monogamous fish and males will court females in the knowledge that they'd leave his territory if they weren't interested. In the confines of an aquarium this is not an option, so add multiple females to spread the male's attention. The sexes can be easily distinguished by the shape of their dorsal fin - small and rounded in females, long and pointed in males. As this fish comes in many colour forms such as Blue, Opaline, Three-spot, Gold and White (a very pale strain of gold) these can all be mixed if you so desire. To allow them to avoid one another on occasion, the aquarium should be over 90cm/36" in length, with a good amount of aquatic planting to provide shelter and break the sightlines. Like most gouramis, the hair-like pelvic fins are equipped with taste buds and are used extensively to investigate their environment and one another.
Feeding
An omnivorous species which should be offered a varied diet consisting of a good quality flake food, green flake food, and frozen foods such as mosquito larvae, brineshrimp etc. This species should also be allowed to graze on soft fine-leaved plants.
Breeding
This egg-laying species can be bred successfully in the aquarium. Males build a bubble nest at the waters surface and initiate spawning. As soon as the eggs have been fertilised, the male usually gathers them up and places them in the nest. The female should be removed immediately after spawning has ceased as the male will continually try and drive her away, causing her much stress in the closed environment of an aquarium. The male will tend to the eggs until they hatch and the fry are free-swimming.
The pearl gourami is not only one of the most attractive gouramis but also one of the hardiest and easiest to keep. It has a labyrinth-like respiratory system, meaning it can breathe air from reaching the surface at any time. Like some other labyrinth fish, this species vocalizes; you might hear growling or croaking noises during breeding or fighting periods.
Origin and Distribution
The Pearl Gourami originates in Thailand, Malaysia, and the islands of Borneo and Sumatra. It prefers acidic water found in lowland swamps near the sea. Some of them have been introduced to Singapore and Colombia but they are a rare sight as most pearl gouramis are bred in captivity.
Lifespan
The average lifespan of a pearl gourami is four to five years. There have been reported instances where they have made it past six, but that's quite uncommon.
Pearl gouramis need to be cared for correctly if you want them to live their lifespan in a fulfilling way. Generally, they are easy fish to maintain and care for- however, without the proper habitat condition this can drastically reduce the length of their lives which is why it is so important that these conditions be met.
Appearance
Pearl gouramis are a distinctive freshwater fish species. With their colors and patterns, they have the ability to stand out in an aquarium of any other ordinary looking fish. Pearl gouramis are easy to care for too! But it’s not just their appearance that sets them apart but also its habitat preferences. These beautiful creatures live on muddy bottoms with plants like Java moss or Vallisneria sp., (though there can be exceptions).
The name Pearl Gourami comes from the fact that there are little white dots on their body - these include spots around its caudal and dorsal fins. The only place you won't find these dots is under their mouth which starts at a small patch of skin slightly below the chest to the belly.
The pearl gourami is fascinating and entrancing because of the small, light-reflecting dots on their body. From the right angle they almost glitter! Another trademark feature of this fish species is a black line that runs down their middle from mouth to caudal fin, which can sometimes be difficult to see depending on how dark it appears against its natural coloration.
Pearl Gourami's bodies are long and thin but tall, giving it a "sideways pancake" appearance. Somehow this fish manages to look fast with its body shape.
The pearl gourami has a unique body shape. They are tall and long, but their bodies are flat like a pancake or side of cake! Another distinct characteristic they possess is that their ventral fins dangle past the end of their tail when swimming-they're kind of funny looking, but we think it's cute!
Size
The average pearl gourami size is anywhere between 4-5 inches. This measurement applies to their body, so it doesn't count any bonus length they might get from their ventral fins.
Genetics and care are two factors that can impact the fish's size, but genetics has a greater influence on the overall size than anything else does. The fish grows according to its age and gender as well, with females growing larger than males in general (not including other factors).
Diet
It is important to feed your fish a healthy diet. The food you provide can affect the growth and behavior of your gourami.
Pearl gouramis aren’t choosy about their food. Their omnivorous diet lets them eat all kinds of different foods.
In the wild, they eat whatever small insects, larvae, and eggs they can find. They have aquatic plants all around them to eat if nothing else passes by.
You won’t have trouble feeding them in an aquarium. They will eat most fish foods, like flake, pellet, and live and frozen foods. Just make sure whatever you feed them is small enough to fit in their mouths.
Live food is beneficial because it encourages the fish to exhibit different behaviors, such as working for their meal. Live foods include brine shrimp and glass worms.
The red wagtail platy is a pleasant and peaceful freshwater fish that's both hardy and active. It's also small, pretty, and a great fish for hobbyists of any level; in fact, it's one of the most popular in the fishkeeping industry. You can find platies in several different colors which make for an eye-catching tank. The platy has two goals in life: eating and breeding. They will circle the tank eating anything, including algae, and their breeding can't be stopped. Like guppies, platies are livebearing fish.
Species Overview
Common Name: Red wagtail platy
Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
Adult Size: 2-3 inches
Life Expectancy: 4 years
Characteristics
Family Poeciliidae
Origin Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico
Social Peaceful
Tank Level Mid-dweller
Optimal Tank Size 10 gallon
Diet Omnivore, eats most foods
Breeding Livebearer
Care Easy
pH 7.0 to 8.0
Hardness 10 to 28 dGH
Temperature 64 to 78 F (18 to 26 C)
Brilliant Pink Energy for Your Aquarium!
Short Description:Light up your tank with the vibrant energy of Rosy Barbs! These active, schooling fish feature stunning pinkish-red coloration that intensifies with proper care, creating a dazzling display of movement and color. Perfect for community aquariums, these hardy fish bring both beauty and personality to your aquatic world.
Key Features & Highlights
🌸 VIBRANT COLORATION: Males develop intense rosy-pink bodies with fiery red fins and golden highlights - color intensifies during breeding and with optimal care
🐟 ACTIVE SCHOOLING BEHAVIOR: Constantly in motion, these energetic fish create a captivating display when kept in groups of 6+
💪 HARDY & ADAPTABLE: Tolerate a wide range of water conditions, making them perfect for beginners and experienced aquarists alike
☮️ PEACEFUL COMMUNITY FISH: Excellent companions for other active, similarly-sized fish in well-planned community tanks
🎯 PERFECT SIZE: 3-5cm juveniles ready to grow and color up in your aquarium - ideal for most home aquariums
Detailed Description
Meet the Rosy Barb - a classic aquarium favorite that continues to win hearts with its perfect combination of stunning beauty, engaging behavior, and easy care. These energetic fish transform ordinary aquariums into dynamic underwater spectacles with their constant movement and brilliant coloration.
What makes Rosy Barbs special is their remarkable color transformation. While juveniles show subtle hints of pink, mature males develop into living jewels with intense rosy bodies, dark-edged fins, and golden highlights that shimmer under aquarium lighting. Kept in proper schools, they display fascinating social behaviors and create a mesmerizing display of coordinated movement.
These active swimmers are particularly well-suited to planted aquariums with open swimming spaces. Their hardy nature and adaptability make them an excellent choice for aquarists seeking colorful, low-maintenance fish that thrive in various conditions while providing endless entertainment.
Perfect For:
Active community aquariums
Beginner hobbyists
Planted tanks with open spaces
Schooling fish displays
Colorful focal points
Specifications & Care Guide
Parameter
Requirement
Scientific Name
Pethia conchonius
Common Names
Rosy Barb, Red Barb
Tank Size
20+ gallons for school
Temperature
64°F - 72°F (18°C - 22°C)
pH Range
6.0-8.0
Water Hardness
Soft to hard (5-19 dGH)
Adult Size
4-6 cm (1.5-2.5 inches)
Diet
Omnivorous - flakes, pellets, live/frozen foods
Lifespan
3-5 years
Care & Feeding
Tank Setup:
Prefer planted tanks with open swimming areas
Appreciate moderate water flow
School of 6+ individuals recommended
Peaceful tank mates only
Diet:
High-quality flake or pellet food
Occasional live/frozen treats (bloodworms, brine shrimp)
Vegetable supplements
Feed 2-3 times daily in small portions
Water Quality:
Regular water changes recommended
Adaptable to various water conditions
Avoid extreme parameter fluctuations
Important Considerations
⚠️ SCHOOLING REQUIREMENT: Must be kept in groups of 6+ for natural behavior
🚫 FIN-NIPPING TENDENCY: May nip long-finned fish (avoid with bettas, guppies)
🌡 COOLER WATER PREFERRED: Thrive in slightly cooler temperatures than tropical fish
🐠 ACTIVE TANKMATES: Best with other active, robust fish species
🌿 PLANT SAFE: Generally leave plants alone but may nibble tender shoots
🔄 REGULAR FEEDING: Active metabolism requires regular meals
Live Arrival Guarantee
Our Rosy Barbs are carefully acclimated and conditioned for shipping. Each order includes detailed care instructions and our live arrival guarantee ensures your fish arrive healthy and ready for their new home.
Ready to add vibrant energy to your aquarium? Bring home these colorful schoolers today!
Superior Biological Filtration, Gentle Water Flow, and Reliable Performance.
The Sponge Filter XY2835 is the workhorse of the aquarium world, offering incredibly efficient biological and mechanical filtration with a gentle, fish-safe current. Its dual-sponge design provides a massive surface area for beneficial bacteria to colonize, making it the ideal choice for breeding tanks, hospital tanks, shrimp tanks, and as a supplemental filter in community aquariums. Simple, effective, and affordable.
Key Features & Benefits:
Massive Bio-Load Capacity: Two large, porous sponges offer an enormous surface area for beneficial bacteria, providing stable and superior biological filtration to break down harmful ammonia and nitrite.
Gentle & Safe Flow: The gentle bubbling action is perfect for delicate fish (like bettas), fry, shrimp, and other creatures that could be stressed or harmed by strong filter intakes.
Dual-Purpose Filtration: The sponges provide both mechanical (traps debris) and biological (hosts bacteria) filtration, keeping your water crystal clear and healthy.
Cost-Effective & Efficient: Operates with a standard air pump, making it one of the most energy-efficient and affordable filtration options available.
Versatile & Reliable: Ideal for a wide range of setups, from 40 to 150-litre tanks (10-40 gallons), and is famously reliable with no moving parts to break.
Product Details:
Product Name: Sponge Filter XY2835
Model: XY2835 (55mm x 48mm)
Recommended Tank Size: 40 - 150 Litres (10 - 40 US Gallons)
Required Equipment: Must be powered by a standard aquarium air pump (sold separately). Includes airline tubing and a suction cup for mounting.
What's Included: 1 x Filter Body, 1 x Sponge Sleeves, 1 x Weighted Base, 1 x Lift Tube.
How To Use:
Connect: Attach one end of the included airline tubing to the uplift tube of the filter and the other end to your air pump.
Place: Submerge the filter completely in your aquarium. Use the weighted base or suction cups to secure it in a corner.
Power: Plug in your air pump. You will see a stream of bubbles rising up the lift tube, which creates the water flow that pulls water through the sponges.
Maintain: Rinse the sponges in a bucket of old tank water during water changes to remove debris. Never rinse them under tap water, as chlorine will kill the beneficial bacteria.
Who is this filter for?
The Sponge Filter XY2835 is the ideal choice for:
Breeders: For fry and shrimp tanks, preventing tiny offspring from being sucked into the filter.
Shrimp Keepers: Provides safe filtration and a constant food source for shrimp as they graze on the sponge.
Betta Owners: Offers gentle flow that won't stress long-finned fish.
Hospital/Quarantine Tanks: Provides instant biological filtration without strong currents.
Community Tanks: Excellent as a supplemental filter to boost biological filtration.
Order with Confidence:
A cornerstone of effective aquarium keeping, this filter is a must-have for hobbyists of all levels.
FAQ Section (Suggested for the product page):
Q: What size air pump do I need for this filter?A: For tanks up to 75L (20 gallons), a standard single-outlet pump is sufficient. For larger tanks (up to 150L/40g), a stronger dual-outlet pump is recommended to ensure adequate flow. The deeper the tank, the stronger the pump needed to push air down.
Q: How do I clean it without killing the good bacteria?A: Always clean the sponge in a bucket of water you have removed from the aquarium during a water change. Gently squeeze the sponge to release trapped waste. Using tap water will chlorine will destroy the beneficial bacteria colony.
Q: Is the current really safe for baby fish and shrimp?A: Absolutely. The water is drawn gently through the porous sponge, making it 100% safe for even the smallest fry and shrimp. There are no intakes or impellers to cause harm.
Q: Can I use this as my only filter?A: Yes, for many setups. It excels in biological filtration. For heavily stocked tanks, it can be used as the primary filter. For tanks that produce a lot of waste, it's best paired with a filter that provides stronger mechanical filtration (like a hang-on-back) to polish the water.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THE BOX MAY VARY DEPENDING ON THE SOURCE
Ancistrus, also known as bushynose or bristlenose catfish, is a genus of nocturnal freshwater fish in the family Loricariidae of order Siluriformes, native to freshwater habitats in South America and Panama. The common Bristlenose is commonly captive bred appears impossible to identify to species primarily due to a lack of original locality information but also because tens of undescribed congeners exist.
Ancistrus species show all the typical features of the Loricariidae. This includes a body covered in bony plates and a ventral suckermouth. The feature most commonly associated with the genus are the fleshy tentacles found on the head in adult males; females may possess tentacles along the snout margin but they are smaller and they lack tentacles on the head. Tentacules, tentacles directly associated with odontodes, develop on the pectoral fin spine of the males of some species.
Sources: Wikipedia contributors. (2019, October 19). Ancistrus. In Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved 02:58, October 19, 2019, from https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Ancistrus&oldid=921971242/nAncistrus. In Planet Catfish. Retrieved October 19, 2019, from https://www.planetcatfish.com/ancistrus_cf_cirrhosus
General care for shrimp:
Temperature:18°-24°C
Chlorine/chloramines: 0 ppm (very toxic for shrimp)
Ammonia/Nitrite: 0 ppm.
Nitrate: <20 ppm.
pH: 6.2-7.5.
GH: 4-8 dGH
KH: 3-15 dKH
Name
Optimal TDS
Limits
Cherry shrimp
150 – 200
100 – 400
Cardinal shrimp
100
50 – 150
Tiger shrimp
180 – 220
100 – 300
We strongly recommend to drip acclimate any shrimp untill the TDS matches before you release the shrimp into your tank.
Please note the above is just a general indication of the care requirements of shrimp. Results will vary depending on the individuals set up.
Add a splash of colour to your aquarium with the Assorted Hi Fin Platy. These colourful tropical fish are a great addition to any freshwater tank, and their vibrant fins add beautiful detail and intrigue. Their peaceful nature makes them an ideal choice for any community tank.
The Glass Shrimps are endemic to Australia and they inhabit many of our inland habitats.
They mostly inhabit streams and tributaries on all States in Australia except for Tasmania. They can live in cool conditions (cold winter nights at Sydney) through to to the heat of Sydney's weather.
They are an easy species to have and will graze on Algae or uneaten foods. They are not the best when it comes to algae control.
Consider giving these gems a try. They reproduce with a planktonic stage and they are quick (as they live with Gambusia and other invasive species).
A few people have tried them with Bettas. Although it is not recommended however in a planted Betta tank it is best to have them in a group of 5 or more.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS SHRIMPS IS CURRENTLY HELD OFFSITE AND CAN ONLY BE PURCHASED THROUGH THE WEBSITE ONLY. IT IS CURRENTLY NOT AVAILABLE IN STORE.
Trichogaster trichopterus sumatranus Ladiges, 1933COMMON NAME: Blue gourami.DESCRIPTION: A subspecies with a powder blue background colour; as far as can be determined, this is a wild colour mutation. First imported in 1933, it quickly became popular as an aquarium fish. Today it is kept more commonly than most other forms of the species. There are hardly any marks at all on this fish, except for the two body spots, but even these look more or less washed out in adult specimens.BREEDING FORMS of trichogaster trichopterus.Several specially bred color forms of T. trichopterys have come into the aquarium trade during the last few decades. In most cases it is not possible to determine whether a particular color form was bred out of the original described form or from the blue subspecies. T. t, sumatranusThese forms should just be given common names and no attempts to taxonomically classify them, as has done in much of the aquarium literature, should be attempted. Designations such as var. variety) or forma (form) should not be usedfor such breeding forms, since their origins or derivations are really unknown. The best known of the breeding forms are the gold gourami and the silver gourami.GOLD GOURAMIThe gold gourami has a golden yellow background colour with either black or reddish brown eyes. Most specimens show a clearly conspicuous marble pattern. It is usually assumed that this breeding form was developed from a xanthistic (yellow-colored) mutation of the originally described form.SILVER GOURAMIThe silver gourami has a silver background colour. There are some individuals that have a clear marbled pattern and others in which this pattern is only weakly apparent. Nothing is known about the origin of thefirst specimens. In contrast to the gold gourami, the silver gourami has not had much distribution in the aquarium trade.COSBY, OR MARBLED, GOURAMIThe Cosby gourami, or marbled gourami, was probably developed in the United States. The original specimens seem to have been Trichogaster tricbopterussumatranus, When they first colour up thehave a few dark blue spots on a powdery light blue background. Asreplaced by a dark marbled pattern. These striking marked fish are very popular in the aquarium hobby.This color form has been designated with all kinds of pseudo-scientific names, such as Trichogaster cosby, "Trichogaster sumatranus, var. cosby," or Trichogastersumatranus forma cosby."Labyrinth Fish Pinter (1984) p86Picture https://www.thesprucepets.com/blue-gourami-1381023
When buying endlers we recommend either going all males or a ratio of 1 male to 2 females or more. this is to ensure the females are not getting too stressed out by the males who will constantly chase them wanting to breed.
Temperature: 24 – 28°C
pH: 6.5 – 7.8
Hardness: 8-12 dGH
Lifespan: 2+ years
Max Size: 3-5cm
Diet: Omnivore
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
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