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The Super Red Bristlenose is part of the Ancistrus genus of nocturnal freshwater fish native to freshwater habitats in South America. The Bristlenose is a great tank cleaner. This is one of the main reasons this fish is so common in home aquariums. They are great algae eaters and will help keep algae levels to a minimum.
They are very peaceful and generally mind their own business and are therefore suitable to live with most kinds of fish but consideration should be taken into suitable water parameters of tank mates.
The Super Reds enjoy vegetable bases food like algae and it is recommended that their diet is supplemented with Algae wafers.
Ludwigia Atlantis is a rare and vibrant mutation of Ludwigia Repens, prized for its extraordinary variegated foliage and intense coloration. With green, pink to red stems and yellow-striped leaves that resemble its cousin Ludwigia sp. Red Skeleton, this plant showcases an ever-changing palette of green, yellow, red, and deep orange. When grown submerged, Ludwigia Atlantis transforms into a showpiece, developing warm reddish-orange tones that stand out beautifully in any planted aquarium or aquascape design.
Key Features & Benefits
Rare Variegated Mutation: A unique variant of Ludwigia repens with striped yellow leaves and multicolor stems
Color-Changing Foliage: Displays a dynamic range of colors—green, yellow, red, and dark orange—especially vibrant when submerged
Moderate Light, High Impact: Easily develops red hues even under moderate lighting conditions
Eye-Catching Accent Plant: Ideal for background or midground use in aquascapes needing a bold splash of color
Easy to Grow: Beginner-friendly; adapts well to most aquarium setups with basic lighting and care
Propagation: Grows quickly and propagates through stem cuttings
Why Choose Ludwigia Atlantis?
Aquarists often seek that perfect accent plant to elevate their aquascape—and Ludwigia Atlantis delivers just that. Unlike ordinary green stem plants, its vivid multicolor foliage adds visual interest and contrast that captivates the eye. This plant not only enhances the aesthetic of your aquarium but also grows easily, turning red even without intense lighting. It’s ideal for both hobbyists wanting an easy-care red plant and experienced aquascapers looking to enrich their layouts with something rare and expressive. Whether placed in the background for a colorful backdrop or midground for added depth, Ludwigia Atlantis is sure to become a highlight in your underwater landscape.
Elevate your aquascape with our premium selection of versatile aquatic plants, available in the following convenient formats:
Fresh-Cut Plants: Includes approximately 6+ loose, fresh-cut stems without roots. Perfect for flexible planting arrangements.
Fresh-Cut Bunched: Approximately 6+ fresh-cut stems without roots, bundled with foam and a plant weight for easy placement.
Fresh-Cut Potted: About 6+ fresh-cut stems without roots, securely potted in a net pot with rockwool, ensuring stability and healthy growth.
Choose the format that best suits your aquascaping needs and create a vibrant, lush underwater environment with our premium aquatic plants.
Disclaimer: Pictures are not the actual plants you will receive, but a sample representation. Unless specific, we don't guarantee aquatic plants will be free of pests, and pesticides, grow emerged, or submerge.
Scientific Name
Ludwigia repens ‘Atlantis’
Common Name
Ludwigia Dark Orange
Placement
Midground, Background
CO2
Not required
Growth Rates
Medium
Difficulty Level
Easy
Nutrient Substrate
Required
Can it grow emerged?
Yes
Lighting Requirements
Medium - High
Balloon Mollies: Unique and Peaceful Fish for Freshwater Aquariums
Balloon Mollies (Poecilia latipinna) are a charming variety of molly fish known for their distinctive rounded body shape and vibrant colour variations. Available in shades of black, white, gold, and orange, these fish add a unique touch to community tanks. Their peaceful temperament and adaptability make them a popular choice for aquarists of all experience levels.
Why Choose a Balloon Molly?
Balloon Mollies are hardy and versatile, thriving in freshwater, brackish, and even marine conditions. Their striking appearance and active nature make them an eye-catching addition to aquariums. They are excellent community fish and pair well with other peaceful species. Their adaptability and low-maintenance care make them ideal for beginners.
Caring for Balloon Mollies
Balloon Mollies require a tank of at least 80 liters to accommodate their active swimming and social behaviour. They thrive in water temperatures between 24°C and 28°C, with a pH range of 7.5–8.5. Adding 2–3 grams of aquarium salt per litre of water helps mimic their natural brackish environment and supports their health. Regular water changes and efficient filtration are essential for maintaining water quality and preventing stress.
Feeding Balloon Mollies
These omnivorous fish thrive on a balanced diet. High-quality flakes or pellets form an excellent staple, while live or frozen foods like brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms provide variety. Blanched vegetables such as spinach or zucchini support their digestive health and enhance their vibrant colours. A nutrient-rich diet ensures their unique body shape doesn’t affect their overall health.
Ideal Tank Mates for Balloon Mollies
Balloon Mollies are peaceful and social, making them excellent tank mates for species like guppies, platies, tetras, and Corydoras. Avoid housing them with aggressive fish or fin-nippers. Keeping them in groups of at least four encourages their natural behaviour and reduces stress.
Breeding Balloon Mollies
Like other mollies, the Balloon Molly is a livebearers and give birth to free-swimming fry. Females can produce fry every 4–6 weeks under good conditions. To protect the fry, provide plenty of plants like Java moss or use a breeding tank. Feed the fry finely crushed flakes or fry food to ensure healthy growth.
FAQs
What tank size is ideal for Balloon Mollies?
A minimum of 80 liters is recommended to accommodate their activity and social behaviour.
Can they live in brackish water?
Yes, they thrive in freshwater or brackish setups with a salt concentration of 2–3 grams per litre.
What do they eat?
They thrive on flakes, live or frozen foods, and occasional vegetables like spinach or zucchini.
Are they beginner-friendly?
Absolutely! Their adaptability and peaceful nature make them ideal for novice aquarists.
How often do they breed?
Females can give birth every 4–6 weeks, producing live fry in well-maintained tanks.
Species Overview
Species: Poecilia latipinna
Common Name: Balloon Molly
Origin: Central and South America
Diet: Omnivore
PH Range: 7.5–8.5
Temperature: 24°C–28°C
Max Size: Up to 8 cm
Tank Size: Minimum 80 liters
General care for shrimp:
Temperature:18°-24°C
Chlorine/chloramines: 0 ppm (very toxic for shrimp)
Ammonia/Nitrite: 0 ppm.
Nitrate: <20 ppm.
pH: 6.2-7.5.
GH: 4-8 dGH
KH: 3-15 dKH
Name
Optimal TDS
Limits
Cherry shrimp
150 – 200
100 – 400
Cardinal shrimp
100
50 – 150
Tiger shrimp
180 – 220
100 – 300
We strongly recommend to drip acclimate any shrimp untill the TDS matches before you release the shrimp into your tank.
Please note the above is just a general indication of the care requirements of shrimp. Results will vary depending on the individuals set up.
NO SHIPPING TO WA
Meet Nature's Most Efficient Algae Cleaner!
Short Description:Introducing the legendary Australian Amano Shrimp - the undisputed champion of aquarium algae control! These hardworking, peaceful shrimp are famous for their incredible appetite for algae and their tireless work ethic. A must-have for any planted aquarium seeking natural, chemical-free maintenance.
Key Features & Highlights
🧹 ALGAE DESTROYING POWER: Voracious consumers of problematic algae types including hair algae, thread algae, and biofilm that other cleaners avoid
💪 INCREDIBLY HARDY: Adaptable to various water conditions and more resistant to parameter fluctuations than most ornamental shrimp
☮️ PEACEFUL COMMUNITY MEMBER: Completely harmless to fish, plants, and other tank inhabitants - perfect for delicate aquascapes
🔍 CONSTANTLY ACTIVE: Tireless workers that are always on the move, cleaning every surface and providing endless entertainment
🌿 PLANT SAFE: Will not damage or eat healthy aquarium plants, only the algae growing on them
Detailed Description
Discover why Amano Shrimp have been aquarium favorites for decades! Named after famous aquarist Takashi Amano, these transparent shrimp with their distinctive dotted-line patterns and reddish-brown markings are more than just pretty faces - they're dedicated cleaning machines that will transform your tank maintenance routine.
What makes Amano Shrimp exceptional is their unmatched work ethic. While many algae eaters are selective, Amanos tackle the tough algae problems that frustrate aquarists. Their larger size and constant activity mean they cover more ground than smaller shrimp species, making them incredibly efficient at keeping your aquarium pristine.
These social creatures thrive in groups and display fascinating behaviors as they work together to clean your aquarium. While they're famous for their algae-eating prowess, they're also entertaining to watch as they climb, explore, and interact with their environment.
(Since we can't get the original Amano Shrimps is Australia due to Quarantine, we adopted the name the Australian Amano Shrimps)
Perfect For:
Planted aquariums of all sizes
Natural algae control solutions
Community tanks with peaceful fish
Beginner and expert hobbyists alike
Takashi Amano-inspired nature aquariums
Specifications & Care Guide
Parameter
Requirement
Scientific Name
Caridina typus
Common Names
Australian Amano Shrimp
Tank Size
10+ gallons
Temperature
70°F - 80°F (21°C - 27°C)
pH Range
6.0-7.5
Water Hardness
Soft to hard (4-15 dGH)
Adult Size
2 inches (5 cm)
Diet
Algae, biofilm, sinking pellets, blanched vegetables
Lifespan
2-3 years
Care & Feeding
Tank Setup:
Heavily planted tanks preferred
Requires stable water parameters
Peaceful tank mates essential
Appreciates driftwood and hiding spots
Diet:
Primarily algae and biofilm
Supplement with algae wafers
Blanched vegetables (zucchini, spinach)
Sinking shrimp pellets
Behavior:
Constantly active during daylight
Social - keep in groups of 3+
Excellent climbers and explorers
Safe with all aquarium plants
Important Considerations
⚠️ BREEDING CHALLENGE: Requires brackish water for larvae development - difficult to breed in home aquariums
🚫 SENSITIVE TO COPPER: Cannot tolerate copper-based medications or fertilizers
🐠 PEACEFUL TANKMATES ONLY: May be preyed upon by larger, aggressive fish
🍽️ SUPPLEMENTAL FEEDING: Requires additional food in algae-scarce tanks
🔍 ESCAPE ARTISTS: Ensure tight-fitting lid as they may explore beyond the tank
Live Arrival Guarantee
Our Amano Shrimp are carefully acclimated and packed for their journey. Each order includes detailed care instructions and our live arrival guarantee ensures your shrimp arrive healthy and ready to clean.
Ready to revolutionize your tank maintenance? Add these incredible cleaners to your aquarium today!
The Cherry Barb is found in heavily shaded streams and rivers in the Kelani to Nilwala basins of Sri Lanka. Feral populations of Cherry Barbs have also been found in Colombia and Mexico. They prefer areas of slow moving, shallow water with a bottom of silt and plenty of branches and leaf litter. In nature, this barb is an omnivore and feeds on diatoms, algae, invertebrates, and detritus.
Cherry Barbs are very hardy little fish. They are great eaters and get along with most tankmates. Their water requirements are fairly easy to meet with regular partial changes. Provided with proper care, these little beauties make a great choice for the beginning fish keeper.
Since they are omnivorous the Cherry Barb will generally eat all kinds of live, fresh, and flake foods. To keep a good balance, give them a high quality flake food every day. Feed brine shrimp (either live or frozen) or blood worms as a treat. Several small feedings a day are ideal, and at least one feeding a day is absolutely necessary. A general rule of thumb when offering food several times a day is to offer only what they can consume in 3 minutes or less at each feeding. When offering food just once a day, provide what they can eat in about 5 minutes.
Cherry Barbs will swim in all parts of the tank, but especially like to take cover in planted areas. These very active fish will also need stretches of open areas for swimming. A small school will need at least a 40 litre aquarium. Provide good filtration and do regular water changes.
These fish will do best and are most effectively displayed in tanks that simulate their natural habitat. They will appreciate an aquarium with lots of dense vegetation and floating plants where they can seek cover. Provide a dark substrate and an open area in the centre for swimming.
Stability® will rapidly and safely establish the aquarium biofilter in freshwater and marine systems, thereby preventing the #1 cause of fish death: "new tank syndrome". Stability® is formulated specifically for the aquarium and contains a synergistic blend of aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative bacteria which facilitate the breakdown of waste organics, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. The bacteria employed by Stability® are non-sulfur fixing and will not produce toxic hydrogen sulfide. Stability® is completely harmless to all aquatic organisms as well as aquatic plants, thus there is no danger of over use.
Stability® is the culmination of nearly a decade of research and development and represents the current state of the art in natural biological management.
The bacteria used in competing products are inherently unstable. The conditions necessary for their growth and development fall into a very narrow range of temperatures, pH, organic loads, etc. When any of these parameters are not strictly within the proper range, the bacterial culture quickly crashes and dies. Stability® is not limited this way. The necessary conditions for the growth of Stability's™ bacteria strains encompass a very broad range. When other bacteria begin to die off (usually from high organic loads caused by the undetected death of an organism), Stability™ simply becomes more effective.
Shake well before use. Turn off UV/ozone. Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 40 L (10 US gallons) on the first day with a new aquarium. Then use 1 capful for each 80 L (20 US gallons) daily for 7 days. Fish and other aquatic species may be introduced at any time as long as dosage is maintained for 7 days. For optimum biofilter performance use 1 capful for each 80 L (20 US gallons) once a month or with each water change and whenever introducing new fish or whenever medicating an aquarium. Product shelf life is 4 years from date of manufacture.
Stability® should ideally be used in conjunction with biological filtration such as Seachem Matrix™. For emergency ammonia control, use Seachem AmGuard™.
The Glowlight Tetra is a stunning addition to any fish tank, with its bright, glowing appearance. As an expert in the aquatic industry, we can assure you of its 2-4cm size and its unique characteristics that will enhance the beauty of your tank. Add a touch of radiance with this captivating fish.
Weber, 1911
Spotted Blue-eye
Species Summary
Pseudomugil gertrudae is a small freshwater fish growing to a size of around 30 mm and is endemic to Australia and New Guinea. They have a moderately compressed and elongated body that is a semi-transparent silvery-blue colour, sometimes having an overall wash of golden-yellow, with the swim bladder clearly visible. They have two dorsal fins, very close together, the first much smaller than the second. The tips of the pectoral fins can be bright yellow, orange or orange-red, other fins often edged with white. The dorsal, anal and tail fins can be clear to white, silvery-grey or yellow with rounded or oblong dark spots scattered all over. Several rows of body scales are edged in black forming an attractive latticework pattern over the body. All scales except those of the mid-dorsal and mid-ventral rows have a spot varying in size and intensity from specimen to specimen and from time to time in the same specimen, forming about 6 rows of discontinuous lines, except for the mid-lateral stripe, which tends to be continuous from just below and in line with the origin of the first dorsal fin to the caudal peduncle. Females generally have a deeper body than the males whilst the adult males have larger dorsal, anal and pelvic fins, with extended filaments on the first dorsal and pelvic fins. Males also exhibit more intense spotting on the body and fins. This species has a patchy distribution where it occurs and as such, there is considerably variation between the different populations in colouration and body size, as well as fin size and shape.
The variety from Weipa is one of the most impressive forms and can be found in Melaleuca swamps besides the road leading into town. A similar form can be found in Pappan Creek that flows into the Mission River. The forms typical of those found at the top of Cape York in areas such as the Jardine River (and its associated swamps) and Burster Creek have large round fins and multiple small spots. In Arnhem Land a nice form with golden body colours occurs in Goanna Lagoon while not far away in the Giddy River the fish have larger fins with larger spots but no golden body colour. Specimens collected in the Darwin region typically have orange pectoral fins. There are many other forms of this beautiful little fish and new ones are regularly being discovered. Pseudomugil gertrudae from the Aru Islands are larger and have an overall golden colour (fins and body). To date there has been no research published on the genetic or physical characteristics of the various populations.
Pseudomugil gertrudae is very similar to the endemic New Guinea species, Pseudomugil paskai. Both species are characterised by rows of permanent spots covering the fins. The only differences being the colour and shape of the fins. Pseudomugil gertrudae were originally collected from Terangan Island (one of the Aru Islands), which lies directly south of the Vogelkop Peninsula in western New Guinea. They were described by Max Wilhelm Carl Weber, Professor of Zoology at the University of Amsterdam in 1911 and named "gertrudae" after the wife of Dr. Hugo Merton, a German naturalist who travelled through the Aru Islands between October 1907 and August 1908.
Distribution Map
(Absence from other catchments may reflect a lack of sampling rather than non-existence.)
Distribution & Habitat
In Australia, Pseudomugil gertrudae has been found in scattered localities in river systems which flow into the Timor Sea and Gulf of Carpentaria - from Darwin through Kakadu and Arnhem Land to Cape York Peninsula, including the offshore islands of Bathurst, Melville and Groote Eylandt, plus some of the islands in the Torres Strait. They are widespread throughout Cape York Peninsula, extending down the eastern coastal plains to around the Innisfail - Tully region. Their known distribution within Australia includes the Adelaide, Alligator, Blyth, Buckingham, Cadell, Cato, Daly, Finniss, Liverpool, and the Moyle River systems in the Northern Territory; including the smaller catchments around Darwin. In Queensland they have been found in the Barron, Coen, Dulhunty, Embley, Endeavour, Jacky Jacky, Jardine, Johnstone, McIvor, Moresby, Mulgrave, Murray, Olive, Russell, Tully and Wenlock Rivers, plus the smaller coastal streams. They have also been found in oligotrophic sand dune lakes in the Cape Flattery and Shelburne Bay region. The known New Guinean distribution includes the Aru Islands, the Pahoturi, Fly (Elevala River, Lake Bosset) and Bensbach (Torassi) river systems. They probably occur elsewhere along the southern coast of New Guinea that has suitable habitat.
Pseudomugil gertrudae are found in small creeks, lagoons, billabongs, swampy marshes and rainforest streams, often associated with dense aquatic vegetation, woody debris and leaf litter. They are almost exclusively found in vegetated lagoons and backwaters with clear water where they can be seen swimming in the shallow waters along the margins. Floating species of waterplants or bottom rooted emergents with floating leaves occur in most, if not all, of their natural habitats. Substrates are usually mud or silt, and there is an abundance of water plants growing to the surface around the margins. Sometimes they may have water plants growing in the deeper water in the middle. Lagoons often have a thick layer of leaf litter around the margins. They are seldom found in turbid lagoons, even when there are abundant water plants.
The water in some habitats is often intensely discoloured by tannic acids leached from decaying vegetation. These 'blackwater' habitats are generally acidic, with pH levels from 3.9 to 6.8, have low conductivity (dissolved ions), and vary in their dissolved organic matter, ionic composition, and colour. Alkalinity and hardness levels are very low. Factors contributing to these variations are age, formation, layers of low permeability and peats, proximity to the sea, surrounding vegetation, and the extent to which leaf litter accumulates and decays in the water.
However, habitat conditions can vary substantially and Pseudomugil gertrudae have been collected from natural habitats within the following range of water conditions:
Temperature: 12-34° Celsius
pH 3.68-9.4
Conductivity: 12-646 µS/cm
Hardness 0-320 ppm
Alkalinity 2-180 ppm
Distribution
Unconfirmed but possibly collected in the vicinity of Timika, the capital of Mimika Regency, Papua province, Indonesia.HabitatCollected exclusively from submerged riparian vegetation of terrestrial origin, and at the Samba River habitat the water was murky brown with a pH around 6.0.Maximum Standard Length30 – 35 mm.Aquarium SizeAn aquarium with base dimensions of 45 ∗ 30 cm should be the smallest considered.Water ConditionsTemperature: 18 – 26 °CpH: 6.5 – 7.5Hardness: 36 – 215 ppmSource: https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/pseudomugil-sp-red-neon/
☁️ Meet the White Cloud Mountain Minnow: Hardy, Beautiful & Unbeatable Value!
Discover the fish that makes aquariums and outdoor ponds effortless! The White Cloud Mountain Minnow is a legendary favorite for a reason. This peaceful, shimmering shoaling fish flashes with brilliant red tails and a striking electric blue stripe, creating constant motion and color without any of the fuss.
Extremely hardy and adaptable, White Clouds thrive where tropical fish can't, making them the perfect choice for beginners, cold-water aquariums, and even seasonal ponds. Simply sit back and enjoy their vibrant, active display!
HIGHLIGHTS:
Incredibly Hardy: Tolerates a wide range of temperatures and water conditions, perfect for beginners.
Stunning & Active: Watch their shimmering silver bodies, neon blue stripe, and bright red tails create a dazzling display as they school.
Peaceful & Social: A harmless, cheerful resident that does best in groups, making them ideal for community tanks and nano setups.
Cold-Water Compatible: Does not require a heater, unlike most tropical fish!
FISH CARE & REQUIREMENTS:
Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
Common Name: White Cloud Mountain Minnow, White Cloud, "The Poor Man's Neon Tetra"
Origin: Mountain streams of China (now endangered in the wild)
Tank Size: 10 gallons minimum for a small school. The more you have, the more impressive the schooling behavior!
Temperament: Very peaceful and excellent for community tanks with other small, non-aggressive fish.
Water Parameters: Highly adaptable. pH: 6.0-8.0, Temperature: 64-72°F (18-22°C). They can even handle cooler temps, making them perfect for unheated tanks.
Diet: Omnivorous. They eagerly accept high-quality flake food, micro-pellets, and love frozen or live foods like baby brine shrimp and daphnia.
Adult Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
Lifespan: 3-5 years with proper care.
WHAT YOU GET: You will receive a group of five (5) live White Cloud Mountain Minnows. For the best appearance and behavior, we recommend groups of 6 or more.Please note: Color can intensify based on diet, water conditions, and during spawning displays.
FAQ & KEEPING TIPS
Do White Cloud Mountain Minnows need a heater?No! This is their superpower. They are a cool-water species and prefer room temperature water. They can even be kept in outdoor ponds year-round in many climates, as they can survive near-freezing temperatures as long as the water doesn't fully solidify.
What are the best tank mates for them?They are incredibly peaceful. Excellent tank mates include other White Clouds, Zebra Danios, Celestial Pearl Danios, Pygmy Corydoras, and peaceful shrimp like Amanos or Ghost Shrimp.
How can I encourage them to school tightly?While they will shoal loosely in a planted tank, providing more open swimming space and keeping a larger group (10+) will encourage the beautiful, tight schooling behavior they are known for.
Why are they a great choice for beginners?Their hardiness is unmatched. They are forgiving of beginner mistakes and fluctuations in water parameters that would stress more sensitive species. They are also easy to feed and breed!
🏞️ A CLASSIC FOR ANY SETUP!Create a beautiful mountain stream biotope with smooth stones, driftwood, and hardy plants like Java Fern and Anubias. Their colors will pop against a dark substrate and green plants. They are also one of the most popular and rewarding fish for a self-sustaining patio pond!
🔒 LIVE ARRIVAL GUARANTEED: Your fish's health is our priority. We pack with extreme care using breather bags, insulated boxes, and season-appropriate packs. Please be available to receive your shipment for immediate acclimation. Review our live arrival policy for details.
Add a school of effortless beauty to your tank. Choose your quantity and add White Clouds to your cart today!
🦐 Meet the Macrobrachium Australiense: The Captivating "Predator" of the Freshwater Shrimp World!
Step beyond the ordinary with the Long-Armed Freshwater Shrimp, a fascinating and larger-than-life invertebrate that brings a touch of wild, predatory grace to your specialized aquarium. Hailing from the rivers of Northern Australia, this species is not your average cleaner shrimp—it's an active, intelligent hunter and an incredible display animal for experienced aquarists.
Witness the ancient dance of survival as it uses its iconic long claws to forage, explore, and command its territory. This is the perfect centerpiece for a species-focused tank.
HIGHLIGHTS:
Striking & Primitive Appearance: Features remarkably long, slender claws, a translucent body that can display beautiful hues of grey and brown, and prominent, expressive eyes.
Active & Engaging Behavior: A captivating display animal that is almost always on the move, hunting, and interacting with its environment.
Expert Scavenger: Helps clean the tank by consuming meaty leftovers and detritus, acting as a unique cleanup crew.
Breeding Challenge: For the advanced hobbyist, breeding these shrimp in captivity is a rewarding and impressive achievement.
SHRIMP CARE & REQUIREMENTS:
Scientific Name: Macrobrachium Australiense
Common Name: Long-Armed Freshwater Shrimp, Australian Freshwater Prawn, Hunter Shrimp
Origin: Northern Australia
Tank Size: Minimum 20 gallons for a single specimen due to its territorial nature and size.
Water Parameters: Pristine, well-oxygenated freshwater. pH: 7.0-7.8, Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C). Requires excellent filtration.
Tank Mates: USE EXTREME CAUTION. This is a predatory shrimp. Not suitable for community tanks with small fish, dwarf shrimp, or snails. Best kept in a species-only tank or with large, fast-moving, top-dwelling fish.
Diet: Carnivorous/Omnivorous. Requires protein-rich foods: sinking carnivore pellets, frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and small pieces of fish or mussel.
Adult Size: Can reach up to 6 inches (15 cm) in length.
WHAT YOU GET: One (1) live Long-Armed Freshwater Shrimp (Macrobrachium Australiense). Size will vary. We ship robust juveniles or sub-adults to ensure you enjoy them for their full lifespan.Please Note: As a wild-caught specimen, color and pattern can vary. They are masters of camouflage.
⚠️ IMPORTANT KEEPER NOTES & FAQ
Is this shrimp safe with other fish and shrimp?No. This is the most critical point. The Long-Armed Shrimp is an opportunistic predator. Its natural behavior is to hunt small creatures with its claws. It will see small fish (tetras, guppies), dwarf shrimp (Neocaridina, Caridina), and snails as food. Keeping it with others is done at your own risk.
What is the ideal tank setup?Provide plenty of hiding spots and visual barriers using driftwood, rock caves, and PVC pipes. This helps reduce territorial stress if keeping multiple individuals (which requires a very large tank). A secure lid is a must as they can be skilled climbers.
Why is it hiding?This is natural behavior. They are often more active during dawn and dusk (crepuscular). After introduction or before a molt, they will hide for security. After molting, they are vulnerable until their new exoskeleton hardens.
What do I feed it?While it will scavenge, a dedicated diet of meaty foods is essential for its health and longevity. Offer food directly to it using feeding tongs to ensure it gets enough to eat.
🏞️ THE ULTIMATE PREDATOR TANK!Create a stunning Australian riverbed biotope. Use sandy substrate, river stones, and driftwood. This shrimp is the perfect fascinating inhabitant for a tank that showcases the raw beauty of nature's food chain.
🔒 LIVE ARRIVAL GUARANTEED: This is a hardy but sensitive species. We package with the utmost care using breathable bags, specialized insulation, and a secure box. Please be prepared to acclimate it immediately upon arrival. Review our live arrival policy for complete details.
Ready for an advanced invertebrate challenge? Add the formidable Long-Armed Shrimp to your cart!
JUVIES/ SUB ADULTS SOLD
Behold the Apistogramma Viejita Red Neck, a breathtaking dwarf cichlid that brings an explosion of fiery color and captivating behavior to the planted aquarium. Renowned for its stunning crimson-red throat and neck that contrasts dramatically with its shimmering blue and gold flecked body, this fish is a true centerpiece for discerning aquarists. Our specimens are healthy, vibrant, and captive-bred for hardiness and adaptability, ensuring you receive a fish that will thrive in your care.
Key Features & Benefits:
Stunning Visual Impact: The intense "Red Neck" is this fish's signature feature, creating a dazzling display of color that is constantly in motion.
Captive Bred Advantage: Unlike wild-caught specimens, our Viejitas are acclimated to aquarium life, are less prone to disease, and accept a wider variety of foods.
Ideal Size: As a true dwarf cichlid, they are perfect for well-planted aquariums from 60 litres (15+ gallons) and upwards.
Fascinating Behavior: Watch their intelligent and curious nature unfold, especially during breeding when their colors intensify and their territorial instincts create a captivating spectacle.
Product Details:
Scientific Name: Apistogramma macmasteri (commonly referred to as "Viejita" morph)
Common Name: Red Neck Apisto, Viejita Red Neck
Origin: Captive Bred (Species originates from Colombia)
Temperament: Peaceful but territorial, especially during spawning. Ideal for community tanks with peaceful, mid-to-top dwelling fish.
Maximum Size: Approximately 6-8 cm (2.5-3.1 inches)
Size Provided: 3-5cm (Juvenile to Sub-Adult) - You will receive healthy, well-started young fish. Their magnificent red coloration will continue to develop and intensify as they mature.
Care Guide:
Recommended Tank Size: 60 litres / 15 US gallons minimum for a pair or trio. Larger is always better, especially with multiple females.
Water Parameters:
Temperature: 24°C - 28°C (75°F - 82°F)
pH: 5.5 - 7.0 (Slightly acidic to neutral is ideal)
GH: Soft to moderate water is preferred.
Diet: Omnivore. Thrives on a varied diet of high-quality micropellets, frozen or live foods like brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms.
Habitat Setup: A well-planted aquarium with plenty of hiding spots is essential. Provide caves (clay pots, coconut shells), driftwood, and leaf litter (Catappa leaves) to mimic their natural environment and reduce stress. A dark substrate will make their colors truly pop!
Who is this fish for?
This Apisto is perfect for:
The aquarist looking to move beyond common community fish.
Planted tank and biotope enthusiasts.
Hobbyists fascinated by fish with personality and complex breeding behaviors.
Anyone wanting to add a splash of intense, fiery red to their aquascape.
Order with Confidence:
Your live fish order is handled with utmost care. We package all livestock with professional breather bags and insulated boxes, complete with heat or cold packs as needed to ensure a safe journey to your door.
⚠️ Please Note: Color development is highly dependent on diet, water quality, and the fish's mood/status. The spectacular red neck will be most vibrant in dominant, healthy, and well-conditioned males.
FAQ Section (Suggested for the product page below the description):
Q: How many should I keep?A: Apistogramma are best kept as a pair (1 male, 1 female) or in a harem (1 male with 2-3 females) in a tank of sufficient size with plenty of visual barriers. Males can be territorial with each other.
Q: Are they suitable for a community tank?A: Yes, with careful selection. Ideal tankmates are peaceful tetras, rasboras, pencilfish, and dwarf Corydoras. Avoid large or aggressive fish.
Q: What is the difference between "Viejita" and "Macmasteri"?A: "Viejita" is a common name historically given to a specific colorful population of Apistogramma macmasteri. The names are often used interchangeably in the hobby for these brightly colored strains.
What is a Black Phantom?
Black Phantom Tetra or Hyphessobrycon megalopterus are a Tetra (Characin) that is native to Brazil.
What are the living conditions of Black Phantom Tetras?
Black Phantom Tetras live in waters around 20 – 28°C. It inhabits soft, acidic waters and grow to around 4cm. Hardness is not an important factor for them but around 18-215ppm is tolerated.
Are Black Phantom Tetras aggressive?
Individually or in groups they are not aggressive. We have Black Phantom Tetras with Neon Tetras and we find them without issues.
How many Black Phantom Tetras can I have?
We suggest a group of 6 or more of Black Phantom Tetras in a tank.
Do black phantom tetras lay eggs?
Black Phantom Tetras is an egg scatterer and they lay there eggs amongst plants or weeds. They lay around 400 eggs at one spawning.
How long do black phantom tetras live?
Black Phantom Tetras live for around 4 years.
What do Black Phantom Tetra eat?
Black Phantom Tetras eat anything.. They are omnivorous in nature and can eat anything that falls in the water. Pellets, Flakes, Live Black worms, Frozen Blood Worms are taken up.
What is your opinion on Black Phantom Tetra?
We love Black Phantom Tetras, they are a great addition to any tank and we believe they should be more prominently placed in your tanks.
Synonyms N/ADistribution PeruSexual Dimorphism Females grow slightly larger and appear wider when viewed from above.Maximum Size 7.5cm (3”)Water Parameters Soft, acidic water is recommended. pH: 6.0-7.0, dH: up to 15 degrees.Temperature 20-27 deg C (70-80 deg F)Compatibility Soft water communityLighting No special requirements
⚡ Discover the Empire Gudgeon: Dazzling Color Meets Hardy Character!
Why choose between color and hardiness when you can have both? The Empire Gudgeon is a stunning Australian native that packs a massive visual punch without the fussy demands. Watch mature males flash their incredible crimson bodies and iridescent blue fins to command attention and become the undeniable centerpiece of your community tank.
Ideal for beginners and experts alike, these peaceful yet full-of-personality fish are active swimmers that bring dynamic energy and a splash of outback brilliance to any setup.
HIGHLIGHTS:
Breathtaking Color: Males develop an intense, fiery red body with stunning electric blue accents on their dorsal and anal fins.
Remarkably Hardy: Tolerant of a wide range of water parameters, making them an excellent choice for novice aquarists.
Peaceful & Engaging: A peaceful community fish that displays fascinating territorial dances and social behaviors.
Easy to Feed: Readily accepts a wide variety of foods, from high-quality flakes to frozen treats.
FISH CARE & REQUIREMENTS:
Scientific Name: Hypseleotris compressa
Common Name: Empire Gudgeon, Empire Fish, Australian Empire Gudgeon
Origin: Northern Australia, Papua New Guinea
Tank Size: 20 gallons minimum for a pair; 30+ gallons for a small group.
Temperament: Peaceful and suitable for community tanks. Males may show minor territorial displays towards each other but are rarely harmful.
Water Parameters: Very adaptable. Prefers slightly alkaline water but is highly tolerant. pH: 6.5-7.8, Temperature: 72-79°F (22-26°C).
Diet: Omnivorous. Thrives on quality flake or pellet food. Loves frozen or live foods like bloodworms, brine shrimp, and daphnia.
Adult Size: Up to 3 inches (7-8 cm)
Tank Setup: Prefers a well-planted tank with plenty of hiding spots and open swimming areas. Appreciates driftwood and rock structures.
WHAT YOU GET: One (1) live Empire Gudgeon (Hypseleotris compressa). You will receive an unsexed juvenile. Please note: While juveniles are less colorful, males will develop their spectacular red and blue breeding coloration as they mature (typically between 4-6 months).
FAQ & KEEPING TIPS
How can I tell males from females?Males are the showstoppers! They develop the deep red body and vivid blue fin markings. Females are still attractive but remain more silvery-brown or golden with translucent fins. They are also typically smaller and rounder when full of eggs.
Can I keep more than one?Absolutely! They do well in pairs or small groups. In larger tanks, keeping multiple females per male is ideal to distribute any amorous attention. You'll be rewarded with seeing their natural social interactions.
What are good tank mates?Their peaceful nature makes them excellent residents in a community tank with other similar-sized, non-aggressive fish like rainbowfish, tetras, danios, Corydoras catfish, and other peaceful community species.
How do I bring out their best color?A high-quality varied diet rich in carotenoids (from foods like bloodworms and brine shrimp) will enhance their red coloration. Stable, clean water and a low-stress environment also encourage them to display their most vibrant hues.
🏡 CREATE A SLICE OF AUSTRALIA!Recreate a natural biotope with driftwood, dense planting, and a sandy substrate. The Empire Gudgeon's brilliant colors will pop against a natural background, creating a breathtaking and serene aquatic display.
🔒 LIVE ARRIVAL GUARANTEED: The health of your fish is our top priority. We pack with exceptional care using breather bags, insulated boxes, and heat or cold packs as needed. Please be prepared to receive and acclimate your fish immediately. Review our live arrival policy for details.
Ready for a hardy fish that looks like it isn't? Add the stunning Empire Gudgeon to your cart today!
When buying endlers we recommend either going all males or a ratio of 1 male to 2 females or more. this is to ensure the females are not getting too stressed out by the males who will constantly chase them wanting to breed.
Temperature: 24 – 28°C
pH: 6.5 – 7.8
Hardness: 8-12 dGH
Lifespan: 2+ years
Max Size: 3-5cm
Diet: Omnivore
The green neon tetra (Paracheirodon simulans) is a freshwater fish of the family Characidae of order Characiformes. It is native to the upper Orinoco and Negro Rivers in South America.[2]
This fish is similar in appearance to the closely related and better-known neon tetra, but it is slightly smaller, and its red patch is less pronounced, while the blue-green areas of the upper body are more brilliant. Also, its body is slimmer than that of the neon tetra. It grows to a maximum overall length of about 3.5 cm (1.4 in).
Like the other Paracheirodon species, the green neon tetra is kept as an aquarium fish, but it is less commonly seen than either the neon tetra or the cardinal tetra.
P. simulans is also sometimes called the blue or false neon. Hyphessobrycon simulans and Cheirodon simulans are obsolete synonyms.
A Green neon tetra with the lack of red stripe clearly visibleThis fish loses its brilliant blue and red colors when lights are switched off, but regains them when lights are switched on again. The green neon tetra comes from extremely soft, acidic water at temperatures around 24 to 29 °C (75 to 84 °F).
Source: Wikipedia contributors. Green neon tetra. Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. August 1, 2019, 17:27 UTC. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Green_neon_tetra&oldid=908887477. Accessed October 18, 2019.
WE CAN SHIP THIS THROUGH OUT AUSTRALIA INCLUDING ALL RESIDENTIAL ADDRESSES.
THIS IS LOCALLY BRED STOCK WHERE THE FISH WERE BORN AND BRED IN AUSTRALIA.
Author: Mike Hellweg
With a perfect mix of charm, intelligence, and spunk, the dwarf puffers from India’s Pamba River are fascinating creatures to keep—and breed—in the home aquarium.
The New Aquarium Staple
In the last 12 years or so the aquarium hobby has seen an explosion of new fishes from India. Several of them—the torpedo-shaped redline barb Puntius denisonii, the stunning drapefin barb Oreichthys sp., the beautiful scarlet badis Dario dario, and many others—have even become new staples of the industry. Out of all of these fishes from India, one that attracts the most interest from hobbyists is the dwarf puffer Carinotetraodon travancoricus.
Coming to the hobby from a land that is steeped in ancient and exotic mystery, where even the locality names evoke the mystique of the old world, these diminutive blowfish take their name from the old Maharaja-ruled Indian principality that was known as Travancore. It is located in the present-day Indian state of Kerala, on the western coast of southern India. This beautiful land far to the south of the city of Mumbai (formerly called Bombay) is crisscrossed with rivers and is the home to many long-time popular aquarium fish, such as the spiketail paradise fish Pseudosphromenus dayi, the glass perch or glassfish Parambassis ranga (formerly Chanda ranga), and the giant danio Devario malabaricus.
It should be noted that dwarf puffers make their home in the Pamba River, which flows from the mountains of the Western Ghats into the Vembanad Lake (another location these fish have been collected). This means that these fish, unlike many of their more well-known puffer cousins, are purely freshwater fish and do not appreciate the addition of salt to their water.
Aquarium Setup
In captivity, they are not too picky about water parameters. As long as extremes are avoided, your fish should do just fine. Spawns have been reported by many hobbyists in both hard and soft water with a recorded pH both slightly above and slightly below neutral. I have kept and bred them in water with a neutral to slightly basic pH, a total hardness around 125 ppm (with about half of that coming from carbonates), and a temperature in the mid to upper 70s (F).
It does appear that clean water is important. Keep the dissolved organics and nitrates low by doing large regular water changes, especially if you are keeping them in smaller tanks. If you provide them with clean water and the right foods, dwarf puffers will reward you with many years of unique behavior.
These fish prefer well-planted tanks with some areas where each male can set up his territory. They do well in smaller tanks, and a pair or trio can be kept in a desktop tank. A good filter helps maintain water quality, but make sure the flow isn’t too strong. Puffers in general are not strong swimmers and seem to prefer areas with lesser water flow. I use sponge filters in my tanks where I can adjust the flow from practically nothing to a raging torrent. For the puffers, I keep the flow at a fairly slow rate.
Aggression
Most of the dwarfs that I’ve kept have been pretty easygoing (other than the occasional territorial display or fin nip), but other aquarists have reported incidents of aggression. According to these reports, males especially can be quite nasty toward their conspecifics. If a fish is injured, it is a good idea to move it to a separate tank for treatment, as the other fish will begin picking at its wound until the injured fish dies. While certain individual dwarfs can show these aggressive tendencies, in my experience aggressive dwarf puffers are not common.
C. travancoricus can be kept in community tanks with small fish. I have read several accounts where they have nipped the fins of slow-swimming fish, so keep that in mind when choosing tankmates. I have not witnessed anything more than an occasional nipped fin among their tankmates, except when there is a spawn. Even so, I prefer to keep them in a tank by themselves just so I can watch their unique behavior. In my experience I have found dwarf puffers to be hardy, peaceful once settled in, and long lived. I have enjoyed keeping at least a small group of them for most of the past decade.
“Poison” and Puffers
The Internet can be a wonderful thing. It is also unfortunately the source of many half-truths, urban legends, and downright falsehoods that are spread as fact. Unfortunately, the dwarf puffer seems to be suffering from a bit of that right now. Every time I give a talk to a club and I mention working with the dwarfs, I have at least one person come up to me afterwards to if I’m aware of the dangers of keeping these “poisonous” fish. Many people seem to confuse “poisonous” with “venomous,” and it’s clear from talking to some hobbyists that this is the case with these tiny puffers.
Toxins
As you might know from murder mysteries and crime dramas on television, some puffer species are known to have a sometimes-deadly toxin in their bodies. Of course there is the Japanese dish fugu that may only be prepared by a specially trained and licensed chef. The small amount of this toxin in the flesh of these blowfish causes a pleasurable tingling or numbness in the lips and mouth and a slight “high” when it is consumed. Eating certain organs where the majority of the toxin resides, however, can cause death.
It is important for hobbyists to note that this toxin is only produced in some species of blowfish, and it is entirely diet related. Levels of the toxin fluctuate throughout the year based on the availability of the food items that are the source. Synthesis of the toxin requires both a certain bacteria and a certain type of algae that grows on the shells of certain mollusks. Both must be ingested in quantity by the puffer in question. If either of these items is absent from the diet, no toxin is produced.
In marine (and some brackish) species, this toxin is called tetrodotoxin. It accumulates mainly in the organs, with only a small amount accumulating in the flesh. In freshwater species, this toxin is called saxitoxin and it accumulates in the flesh. Eating the flesh of these freshwater fish can cause (and has caused) death, hence the source of the rumors.
Without the dietary sources, the toxin in wild-caught puffers dissipates with time, as evidenced by the seasonal fluctuations. Though I have found much hobbyist-based speculation (often stated as fact) on the Internet, I have found no scientific evidence to support the idea that C. travancoricus ever, even in the wild, synthesizes saxitoxin. That is not to say they don’t, just that I have not seen any scientific evidence that they do; the only freshwater puffer species I have found in the literature associated with saxitoxin is Tetraodon cutcutia.
Snails
Dwarfs in captivity do eat small snails. Small snails are generally very young and haven’t had time for any algae to accumulate on their shells. On the rare occasions when dwarf puffers in captivity do eat larger snails, they usually eat only the flesh and not the shell. So it’s not likely that they ever ingest enough of the necessary algae in the wild—if it is even found in their habitat—to synthesize this toxin.
How Diet Affects Toxins
It all boils down to the simple fact that captive-raised puffers do not produce the toxin if they are not exposed to these specific bacteria and algae in their diet. There is nothing for the hobbyist to fear; even if the toxin is found in wild-caught dwarfs, it can’t harm you unless you eat the fish!
In my research for this article I’ve read anecdotal evidence (again, on the Internet, so consider the source) stating that larger fish that have consumed dwarfs have died soon thereafter. Whether this is a result of poisoning or of the little fish inflating itself and getting stuck in the larger fish’s digestive tract is never noted. I was unable to find a single instance where either a necropsy or any toxicology screening was done to verify the cause of the larger fish’s death. To be safe for both the puffers and for larger fish, I would not recommend keeping the dwarfs with any fish that can swallow them. But then again, no small fish should be kept with tankmates that can swallow them.
The Name Game
Like many other fish, Carinotetraodon travancoricus is known by a few different common names. I first encountered them at a local wholesaler in 1996 under the trade name pea puffer. The name fit, as they are not much larger than a pea when they are offered for sale. Many in the trade still call them by that name. I’ve also seen them variously listed as dwarf puffers, pygmy puffers, red green dwarf puffers (I’m not really sure how that one applies), gold green dwarf puffers, blue line puffers, and Malabar puffers. I’ve seen them attached to the scientific names of Tetraodon travancoricus (they were described under this name in 1941), Monotretus travancoricus, and Carinotetraodon travancoricus. The latter is currently considered correct. I really like the common name of dwarf puffer, so that is the one I use.
As with many miniature fishes, their scientific name is larger than the fish itself—really big males barely reach ¾ of an inch, and the females are just a bit smaller.
Sexing
As adults, C. travancoricus are easily sexed. As you can see in the accompanying photos, males have a deep golden belly with a black line or ridge running from just under the head to the caudal peduncle. Males also have dark bluish or even black long ovals and stripes on their backs and sides. In females and juveniles, these dark markings are smaller spots. Females also have a white belly, sometimes with a golden patch on the throat.
Intelligent Fish
Puffers are known for their intelligence, their curiosity, and their awareness of what is going on outside of their tank. Dwarfs are no exception. They carefully and deliberately search every surface in their tank and pay close attention to activity elsewhere in the room, as well. They beg for food whenever their owner is close by, moving up and down the glass and spending more time at the area where they are usually fed. If you are not careful, it’s pretty easy to overfeed your puffers.
Feeding
Dwarf puffers should have a varied diet. I feed mine daily with an assortment of live foods like newly hatched brine shrimp, grindal worms, and occasionally larger worms like blackworms and whiteworms. They enjoy Daphnia and Moina, and they are able to eat adult brine shrimp if it is offered. I’ve seen them go after Gammarus, but I’ve neither seen them catch nor eat any. I also add ramshorn snails to their tank. They don’t seem too interested in adult snails, but they will eat tiny young ramshorns.
For those who do not want to deal with live foods, some hobbyists do report that dwarf puffers will take flake and pellets as a staple diet, but of the dozens of these fish that I’ve kept, I have only been able to get a few of them to take those types of prepared foods. They seem to be more likely to take these types of foods in a community situation where they see other fish enjoying their meal. But there is good news—they will eat frozen and freeze-dried bloodworms, as well as finely ground frozen and freeze dried krill and brine shrimp. Many individuals will also take finely shredded frozen mussels. Before feeding any freeze-dried foods it is a good idea to re-hydrate them by soaking them in water for 20 minutes or so. They can then be fed to the fish by baster or pipette, or even just poured directly into the tank.
By providing my dwarf puffers a mixed diet and some tiny snails to munch upon, I haven’t experienced trouble with any individual’s teeth growing too large that they would need a trim, as sometimes occurs with larger freshwater puffers. That’s a good thing, too, as I have no idea how I would perform this type of delicate dentistry on their tiny mouths.
A First Attempt at Spawning
In late 1996, after seeing them for the better part of a year every time I visited our local wholesaler, I finally decided to try a group of dwarf puffers. There was almost no information available about these unique little fish, so over the next few years I tried various setups to try and find what they required. Our local wholesaler couldn’t tell me much more than that they were from India and did not grow very big. He also thought they were freshwater fish, though he kept them in the brackish system with the larger puffers, gobies, mudskippers, and archerfish. They survived, but did not thrive in that setup. Nevertheless, the wholesaler never put them into a freshwater system.
Bring It On
At first I tried to research them, but “pea puffers” were not mentioned in any books available in English at the time. I also could not find any mention of them in my collection of magazines. While some folks were on the primitive Internet of the day, it would be another four years before I even considered the purchase of a computer. I even tried a search of the local university libraries without success. So I was on my own, but definitely up for the challenge. None of my friends from the local club were able to guide me, nor were any of my far-flung hobbyist friends from what was then known as the North American Fish Breeder’s Guild.
All of the hobbyists I spoke with thought dwarf puffers should be a brackish fish because “all puffers are brackish-water or marine fish.” I knew of at least one puffer from South America that was a pure freshwater fish, and armed with that knowledge and the limited information I could get from my wholesaler, I bought a group of 25 of them. They were tiny, barely the size of a pea, at about 3/8 of an inch long. A fellow local aquarium club member who had kept larger puffers many times over the years wanted to try them too, so we split up the group. I wound up with 14 fish, and he kept a baker’s dozen. It pays to be a regular customer of a locally owned business, as sometimes they add a few extras for their good customers!
Tank Setup
I set mine up in a pure freshwater, planted 20-gallon long, and my friend tried his in a brackish setup in a 29-gallon tank. I fed a mixed live food diet, and after accidentally discovering they also liked frozen bloodworms, I started adding those as well. My friend tried a diet of small apple snails Pomacea sp. and shredded mussels, as that is what his larger puffers ate.
After about a month, he called me and offered me his survivors. He dropped off his three very skinny fish a few days later, and after a brief quarantine and fattening up period, I added them to my group. I had not realized how much size my fish had put on in just a few weeks time. The established group was nearly double the size of the new fish and immediately began harassing them, so I had to pull the new ones out. I never was able to integrate those three fish into my group, so eventually I passed them along to another hobbyist.
The tank was set up with a large stand of Cryptocoryne wendtii that had spread to take over most of the tank. Eventually the dwarfs grew and reached what turned out to be their adult size of about ¾ inch. The individual males stopped swimming with the school and started hanging around their own individual territories until the remaining school was all females. The six males had each claimed their own little corner of the world at the base of the plant stands. Other than a little nipping and the occasional torn fin, there was little in the way of interaction between the males except at feeding time, when all territories were temporarily forgotten. After a meal, there was a bit of chaos as they all began to realize that “hey, you’re in my space.” But this would settle back down pretty quickly, only to be repeated again at the next feeding time.
Schooling
The females schooled loosely, and interacted with each individual male as they moved through his territory. They went through a surprisingly complex dance of bows and displays, with the females initiating the bowing and the males seemingly trying to impress the females with their size, which was exaggerated by the stripe along the ridge of their belly. The setup was working and the little puffers were thriving, but they did not spawn.
Further Research
Over the next few years as the group thrived I started researching further. I found a few articles in old issues of TFH on breeding brackish-water puffers, so I tried a few of the different things that were suggested. I also tried to be creative, using things I’d done before for other small fish. I tried giving them an area of open sand, thickets of plants, and even some caves; I attempted to add plants with large crowns so the males could better mark their territory; I divided territories with driftwood or rocks; and I even tried grouping them differently—in pairs, trios, and two pairs. I tried combinations of these things with hard water, soft water, peat-filtered water, brackish water, and, thinking they might move downstream to the sea to spawn, even salt water. While they tolerated it, adding salt water was a bad idea and they didn’t like it at all. They refused to eat, and did little but hang near the bottom of the tank.
Nothing worked; over the next few years they continued to thrive but did not breed. I gave away small groups of them, hoping someone else might have better luck. No one did. Eventually, after about five years they began to die off—likely from reaching old age.
Success (or Dumb Luck) at Last!
Eventually I lost the last of my original group, but I decided to try again. The next time I saw them for sale, I bought a batch of three males and three females. They were a bit larger, nearly ¾ of an inch long and easily sexable. I set them up in a planted tank much like before. Also, thanks to the book Ornamental Aquarium Fish of India (T.F.H. Publications, 1999), I now knew that they came from India, they were a dwarf species, and their scientific name was Monotretus travancoricus. This was the first written record of the species that I was able to find; unfortunately, there was still no information about spawning them.
A Year of Frustration
Again I tried several different things from my bag of tricks to get them to spawn, working with this new group for nearly a year. I had no more success with this group. I could tell the females were full of eggs, but for some reason I was missing something. I tried large water changes right before a storm front came through. I tried going with no water changes for a long period of time, which turned out to be another bad idea, as they all got stressed out and one of the males died. I still had no luck. Finally in frustration I gave up.
In the Breeding Tank
I moved the surviving group of two males and three females out of the “breeding tank” because I had other fish that were ready to spawn and I needed the tank. Our club had an auction coming up in a couple of weeks, so I decided I would sell the dwarf puffers in the auction. I put them into a temporary holding tank, a 10-gallon loaded with Java moss attached to some small pieces of lava rock and filled with plain, dechlorinated tap water with a sponge filter. There were several other fish that would be going to the auction in that tank, too.
The next morning, all of the other fish were pretty chewed up. The largest male was driving all of the other fish away from a corner of the tank. The smaller male was all chewed up around his belly. The larger male wasn’t guarding a specific area, but rather the whole corner. I looked but didn’t see anything. While feeding the fish I noted that he stayed in the corner, and that all of the females looked markedly thinner. Hmmm…
Eureka!
I took a piece of tubing and moved the Java moss around a bit in “his” corner. There they were, down in the Java moss, a clump of creamy whitish eggs! There were easily 80 or more eggs in the “nest.” Success at last! I had been providing them with everything except the substrate they needed for laying their eggs. Later I learned that in the wild they spawn on mats of algae or moss.
I decided to move all of the fish out of that tank and leave the eggs where they were. Over the next few days, some of the eggs turned a brownish color, and most remained white. I removed the white eggs with a small baster, and by day four I could clearly see eyes in the remaining eggs. A little over 110 hours after I found them, the eggs hatched. The little tadpole-shaped larvae bounced around on the bottom when I moved the Java moss, so I let them be for a couple of days. They were tiny, probably less than 1/8 of an inch long. They looked basically like an egg with fins and a tiny tail. Since they were not yet swimming on their own, I assumed they would be using the rest of the contents of their yolk sac over the next few days.
Raising the Fry
I checked daily, and on the fifth day after hatching, I noted that some were starting to try and swim, so I added a slow dripping “cocktail” of green water, paramecia, and infusoria to their tank, and mixed in some vinegar eels. They did not appear to be chasing down the food for the first two days, so I also added some ramshorn snails to clean up any uneaten food that died. I also put in some Moina to help keep the water clear and provide the tiny puffers with young for them to hopefully eat. I continued this micro-food “cocktail” drip for 10 days, adding newly hatched brine shrimp and microworms to the mix after a week. When it was clear by the color of their bellies that all of the puffer fry were eating the newly hatched brine shrimp, I discontinued the smaller foods.
With egglayers, once the fry are feeding on newly hatched brine shrimp, you are usually over the hump and it’s just a matter of giving them clean water, room to grow, and lots of good quality food. The baby puffers are no different, and they grow quickly, reaching a saleable size of about ½ inch in just about two months.
I always leave a clump of Java moss in fry tanks since it is usually covered with all kinds of microfauna that serves for “between meal” snacks for the fry. The young dwarfs seemed to enjoy this snack as much as most other fry do.
Sharing the Wealth
I was able to raise 38 fry from this first attempt. It appears this is extremely abnormal, at least in my experience. Subsequent spawns have been much smaller. I’ve chalked it up to having three females spawn with the same male within a few hours, after not being able to spawn for months. I’m guessing this first spawn was so large due to the fact that the females were loaded with eggs, they were more than ready to spawn, and I finally provided them with a spawning substrate they found acceptable.
I passed out many pairs from this spawn (including the pair in the photos accompanying this article), and a couple of friends had some luck getting these first-generation fish to spawn. I have even been able to raise a second and a third generation from these cute little guys. Average spawns have been about seven, with many only producing two or three fry. One friend has even reported a single tiny puffer appearing in his well-planted tank, without his doing anything other than providing the adults with the proper food and a clump of Java moss to spawn on.
If you are looking for something a bit out of the ordinary, but that you would have a reasonable chance of success with spawning, you might want to consider the dwarf puffer. These amazing little fish are just the right mix of fishy charm, intelligence, and spunk that could be the perfect addition to your fish collection.
References
Ebert, Klaus. 2001. The Puffers of Fresh and Brackish Waters. Aqualog Verlag, Morfelden-Walldorf, Germany.
Tekriwal, Kishori Lal and Andrew Arunava Rao. 1999. Ornamental Aquarium Fish of India. T.F.H. Publications, Waterlooville, England.
Coates, Christopher and James W. Atz. 1954. Fishes of the World. Greystone Press, New York, NY.
Cousteau, Jacques Yves. 1985. Jacques Cousteau: The Ocean World. Harry N. Abrams Publishing, New York, NY.
Schultz, Leonard P. 1971. The Ways of Fishes. T.F.H. Publications, Neptune City, NJ.
Moyle, Peter B. 1993. Fish, an Enthusiast’s Guide. University of California Press, Berkeley and Los Angeles, CA.
Helfman, Gene S., Bruce B. Collette, and Douglas E. Facey. 1997. The Diversity of Fishes. Blackwell Science Inc., Malden, MA.
This is taken from the TFH Magazine Website Direct link below
https://www.tfhmagazine.com/articles/freshwater/the-dwarf-puffer-a-pleasant-little-surprise
Discover a Living Galaxy: The Celestial Pearl Danio
Short Description:A true gem of the aquarium world! The Celestial Pearl Danio is a breathtaking nano fish that looks like a miniature universe swimming in your tank. With a pearlescent body covered in celestial spots and fins dipped in brilliant orange-red, their stunning beauty and peaceful nature make them a must-have for planted aquarium enthusiasts.
Key Features & Highlights (Bullet Points)
🌌 LIVING ARTWORK: Their name says it all. A shimmering, pearl-like body is scattered with a constellation of metallic spots, complemented by strikingly colorful fins. A true centerpiece for any aquascape.
🐠 NANO-SIZED PERFECTION: Reaching just about 1 inch (2.5 cm), these tiny wonders are perfect for micro and nano aquariums (10 gallons and up), allowing you to keep a captivating school in a small space.
☮️ PEACEFUL COMMUNITY FISH: Timid and non-aggressive, they are ideal inhabitants for a carefully planned community tank with other small, peaceful species like shrimp and microrasboras.
🌿 PLANTED TANK SPECIALIST: Thrives in a heavily planted aquarium that mimics its natural habitat. Plants provide them with security, making them bolder and encouraging natural behaviors and even breeding.
👀 ACTIVE & ENGAGING: Once acclimated, they are active swimmers that display fascinating shoaling behavior in the middle-to-bottom levels of the tank, providing endless entertainment.
Detailed Description
Often called the Galaxy Rasbora, the Celestial Pearl Danio is one of the most spectacular small fish discovered in recent years. We carefully source our stock to ensure you receive healthy, vibrant fish that will truly shine in your setup.
While they may be small, their personality and visual impact are immense. They are best kept in schools of 6 or more, where they feel secure and display their most natural and dazzling behaviors. Watching a school of these tiny "galaxies" dart amongst mosses and carpeting plants is an experience every aquarist should enjoy.
They are a excellent choice for the budding aquascaper or anyone with a planted tank looking to add a pop of color and dynamic activity. Create a natural paradise for them with soft lighting, live plants, and dark substrate, and you'll be rewarded with a thriving, shimmering shoal.
Ideal For:
Planted Aquariums & Nature Aquariums
Nano Tanks (10+ gallons)
Peaceful Community Tanks
Shrimp Safaris
Aquarists who appreciate fine detail and natural beauty
Specifications & Care Guide (At a Glance)
Parameter
Requirement
Tank Size
Minimum 10 gallons for a school
Water Temp
73°F - 79°F (23°C - 26°C)
pH Level
6.5 - 7.5 (Slightly Acidic to Neutral)
Temperament
Peaceful & Timid
Diet
Micropellets, microplankton, crushed flakes, and live/frozen foods like baby brine shrimp and daphnia.
Adult Size
Up to 1 inch (2.5 cm)
Care Level
Easy to Intermediate (Sensitive to water parameter swings)
Important Notes & Considerations
⚠️ WATER SENSITIVITY: While hardy once established, they can be sensitive to rapid changes in water parameters. Drip acclimation is highly recommended. They require clean, stable water conditions.
🔰 SECURITY IN NUMBERS: Keep in a school of 6 or more. In smaller numbers, they may become stressed and reclusive.
🐟 TANKMATES: Must be kept with other peaceful, small tank mates. Avoid large or boisterous fish that will outcompete them for food or see them as a snack.
🌑 PREFER DARK SUBSTRATE: A dark substrate and background will help reduce stress and make their incredible colors pop even more.
Live Arrival Guarantee
We pride ourselves on careful packaging and shipping. Our live arrival guarantee ensures your Celestial Pearl Danios are delivered healthy and active. Please be prepared to acclimate them slowly via the drip method immediately upon arrival.
Bring the cosmos into your aquarium. Order a school of these extraordinary fish today!
The newest addition the the Leddy aquarium range is here with the Leddy 40 & 60 XL. The Leddy XL adds additional height to the popular Leddy Day & Night aquarium turning the Leddy 40 from a 25L to a a 35L tank and the Leddy 60 from a 54L to a 72L tank without increasing the footprint.
Leddy Aquariums are an incredibly popular aquarium line from Aquael prized amongst both beginner and intermediate aquarists for its high quality construction, modularity and ease maintenance.
The Leddy Day & Night. Now you can enjoy your aquarium at night thanks to new DAY&NIGHT lighting. The new Leddy aquariums include a lid with the newest LED lighting, which combines both day and night illumination. In addition, the set is equipped with an efficient filter and automatic heater. The Leddy set ensure the aquarium animals and plants safety and optimal living conditions. Easy to maintain decorative aquarium perfect for anyone including beginner aquarists. Find out for yourself what a great hobby fish keeping can be!
PLEASE NOTE THAT WE HAVE PLENTY OF STOCK IN OUR OFFSITE WAREHOUSE.
SHIPPING:
PLEASE NOTE THAT SHIPPING IS NOT FREE FOR THIS PRODUCT RANGE AND YOU WILL BE QUOTED SEPARATELY. THIS IS IRRESPECTIVE OF HOW MUCH YOU ARE CHARGED AS IT IS BASED ON WHERE YOU LIVE AND THE SIZE YOU ARE LOOKING FOR.
🌿 Transform your aquarium into a serene, underwater meadow with Thin Vallisneria. This classic, fast-growing plant is the perfect solution for creating a lush, natural background that provides essential shelter for your fish while oxygenating your water.
A favorite for beginners and experts alike, Vallisneria is famously low-maintenance. Simply plant it and watch it thrive, quickly spreading to fill your tank with vibrant, ribbon-like greenery.
HIGHLIGHTS:
Rapid Growth: Establishes quickly and spreads via runners for a full, natural look.
Easy Care: Thrives in a wide range of water conditions with minimal effort.
Natural Filtration: Helps absorb excess nutrients, reducing algae and improving water quality.
Provides Shelter: Creates a safe haven for shy fish, shrimp, and fry.
PRODUCT DETAILS:
Common Name: Thin Vallisneria
Scientific Name: Vallisneria Torta
Origin: Southeast Asia
Growth Rate: Fast
Light Requirement: Low to Moderate
Care Difficulty: Easy
Placement: Background
Propagation: Spreads by sending out runners (stolons)
WHAT YOU GET: You will receive one (1) loose bunch of Thin Vallisneria, containing 5+ healthy individual stems with established roots. Please note: As a live plant, some melt may occur while it adapts to your aquarium. This is normal, and new growth will quickly follow.
We want to make sure that what we sell will root well and therefore please note that the size of your plants want be that big.
FAQ & PLANTING TIPS
How do I plant Thin Vallisneria?Gently separate the stems. Using planting tweezers, plant each individual stem into your substrate (gravel or sand works fine), ensuring the crown (where the leaves meet the roots) is just above the substrate. Space them a few inches apart to allow runners to spread.
Will it grow in my low-tech tank?Absolutely! Thin Vallisneria is an excellent choice for low-tech setups without CO2 injection. It will benefit from root tabs or liquid fertilizers but can often grow well without them.
How tall does it get?It typically reaches heights of 10-20 inches, making it ideal for the mid-to-background of most aquariums. It will grow to fit the height of your tank.
Why are the leaves twisted?The slightly twisted, corkscrew-like form of the leaves is a natural characteristic of the Vallisneria Torta species, giving it more texture and visual interest than straight Vallisneria varieties.
🏡 CREATE THE AQUASCAPE OF YOUR DREAMS!Pair Thin Vallisneria with driftwood, rocks, and other easy plants like Anubias or Java Fern for a stunning, natural-looking ecosystem. Your fish will thank you for the beautiful and functional home!
🔒 LIVE ARRIVAL GUARANTEED: We take extra care in packaging our plants to ensure they arrive healthy and vibrant. Please refer to our policy page for details.
Add Thin Vallisneria to your cart and start your underwater garden today!
Please note that pond snails and algae maybe present
Seachem Flourish Advance is a bio-stimulant that promotes accelerated root growth and overall plant development through natural phytohormones, making it ideal for newly planted or pruned aquariums.\n\nIt supports long-term plant health and resilience, with a recommended dose of 5 mL per 80 liters added daily for optimal results.\n Boxes of 2
Vibrant Red & White Elegance for Your Aquarium!
Short Description:Experience the mesmerizing beauty of Crystal Red Shrimp! These stunning Caridina cantonensis feature brilliant red segments separated by pure white bands, creating a captivating candy-cane effect. A perfect choice for planted tanks and dedicated shrimp colonies, offering both spectacular beauty and beneficial cleaning activity.
Key Features & Highlights
❤️ STRIKING RED & WHITE CONTRAST: Vivid red coloration punctuated by bright white bands creates a stunning visual impact that enhances any aquascape
⭐ PREMIUM GENETICS: Carefully selected for intense color saturation and desirable pattern expression - ideal for breeding projects
🌿 NATURAL CLEAN-UP CREW: Constant grazers that help maintain tank cleanliness by consuming biofilm, algae, and organic debris
💧 REWARDING CHALLENGE: Perfect for hobbyists ready to advance beyond beginner shrimp while offering manageable care requirements
👁 CAPTIVATING BEHAVIOR: Active and engaging shrimp that provide endless entertainment as they forage and interact
Detailed Description
Welcome to the world of Crystal Red Shrimp, one of the most iconic and sought-after dwarf shrimp varieties in the aquarium hobby. These magnificent invertebrates bring an explosion of color and activity to any setup with their striking red and white banding. Each shrimp displays a unique pattern of intense red and crisp white markings, creating a living mosaic that becomes more fascinating as your colony expands.
Perfect for intermediate aquarists looking to expand their skills, Crystal Red Shrimp offer the ideal balance of challenge and achievement. They flourish in well-established, stable aquariums where they can exhibit their natural behaviors and maintain their vibrant coloration. Observing a colony of these red-and-white jewels going about their daily activities is like watching living gemstones moving through your aquascape.
Whether you're establishing a dedicated shrimp tank or adding spectacular color to a planted aquarium, Crystal Red Shrimp deliver exceptional beauty and practical benefits. Their constant grazing helps maintain tank health while their dazzling appearance provides year-round visual interest.
Perfect For:
Planted aquariums and nature scapes
Dedicated shrimp breeding projects
Intermediate hobbyists
Aquarists seeking vibrant color contrast
Natural biofilm and algae control
Specifications & Care Guide
Parameter
Requirement
Scientific Name
Caridina cantonensis
Tank Size
5-10+ gallons for colony
Temperature
64-76°F (18-24°C)
pH Range
5.8-6.8 (slightly acidic)
GH
4-6 dGH
KH
0-2 dKH
TDS
100-150
Adult Size
1-1.2 inches (2.5-3 cm)
Care Instructions & Feeding
Setup: Requires a fully cycled aquarium with stable parameters. Use active substrate for pH buffering and include ample hiding spots with plants, mosses, and hardscape.
Feeding: Supplement their natural biofilm diet with specialized shrimp foods, blanched vegetables (zucchini, spinach), and mineral supplements for optimal health and color development.
Water Changes: Regular small water changes (10-15% weekly) with remineralized RO or distilled water recommended.
Acclimation: Drip acclimate over 2-3 hours due to sensitivity to parameter changes.
Important Considerations
⚠️ WATER SENSITIVITY: Sensitive to rapid parameter changes and nitrogen compounds
🚫 COPPER WARNING: Extremely sensitive to copper - avoid copper-based medications
🔬 STABILITY REQUIRED: Require consistent water parameters for long-term success
🦐 TANKMATES: Keep with other peaceful inhabitants or in species-only tanks
🌡 TEMPERATURE CONTROL: Maintain stable temperatures below 76°F (24°C)
Live Arrival Guarantee
We carefully pack our shrimp with plenty of java moss and protection for their journey. Our live arrival guarantee ensures your Crystal Red Shrimp arrive healthy and active. Please be prepared to acclimate them immediately upon arrival.
Create a stunning underwater display with these red-and-white jewels. Add Crystal Red Shrimp to your collection today!
The Pinnacle of Shrimp Keeping: Pure Red Line Crystal Shrimp
Short Description:Experience the ultimate in aquatic elegance. Our PRL (Pure Red Line) Crystal Shrimp represent the highest standard of selective breeding, featuring breathtaking, opaque white shells and deep, solid red markings. These are not just shrimp; they are living art for the serious enthusiast, offering an unparalleled challenge and reward.
Key Features & Highlights (Bullet Points)
🎨 EXQUISITE COLOR & PATTERN: Meticulously bred for superior genetics, our PRL shrimp boast intensely opaque, snow-white bodies contrasted with rich, blood-red markings. Each shrimp is a masterpiece.
🧬 PURE RED LINE (PRL) GENETICS: This prestigious line is the result of years of selective breeding from the original Crystal Red Shrimp, guaranteeing pattern consistency, color intensity, and superior genetic quality in your colony.
📈 HIGH-GRADE INVESTMENT: We carefully hand-select for grades S+ to SS, ensuring you receive some of the highest-quality shrimp available. These are breeding stock for a thriving, profitable, or show-stopping colony.
🌿 INDICATOR OF WATER PERFECTION: Thriving PRL shrimp are a badge of honor, signifying your ability to maintain pristine, stable water conditions. They are the ultimate test for a dedicated aquarist.
🦐 FASCINATING TO OBSERVE: Watching these translucent beauties graze on biofilm, molt, and care for their young provides endless fascination and a deep sense of accomplishment.
Detailed Description
Welcome to the big leagues of shrimp keeping. PRL Crystal Shrimp are not your average aquarium inhabitant; they are the result of a passionate global pursuit of perfection. Sourced from top-tier breeders, our stock represents the crème de la crème of the Caridina cantonensis family.
Keeping and breeding PRL shrimp is a deeply rewarding hobby that requires attention to detail. They demand specific, soft, acidic water parameters to truly thrive and reveal their full color potential. Success with these jewels means creating a stable, mature aquarium rich in biofilm and devoid of pollutants.
This is more than a purchase; it's the start of a project. For those who accept the challenge, the payoff is a self-sustaining colony of some of the most beautiful invertebrates on the planet. This is the journey every serious shrimp keeper aspires to.
Ideal For:
The Advanced Aquarist
Dedicated Shrimp Breeders
Aquascapers wanting a premium, colorful clean-up crew
Those seeking a rewarding and profitable hobby
Specifications & Care Guide (At a Glance)
Parameter
Requirement
Scientific Name
Caridina cantonensis var. "PRL"
Grade
S+ to SS (High Grade)
Tank Size
Minimum 5 gallons (~20 Liters)
Water Temp
62°F - 76°F (17°C - 24°C)
pH Level
Crucial: 5.8 - 6.8 (Very Soft, Acidic)
GH
4-6 dGH
KH
0-1 dKH
TDS
100-150
Diet
Biofilm, specialized shrimp foods (Bacter AE, Shirakura), blanched vegetables, and mineral supplements.
Important Notes & Considerations
⚠️ EXPERT-LEVEL CARE: PRL shrimp are NOT for beginners. They require very specific, stable water parameters and are highly sensitive to ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Experience with Neocaridina (Cherry Shrimp) is highly recommended first.
🚫 COPPER IS FATAL: Never use medications or plant fertilizers containing copper in a shrimp tank. It is lethal to all invertebrates.
🔬 MATURE TANK REQUIRED: Do not introduce them to a new, uncycled aquarium. The tank must be fully cyclated and mature with a well-established biofilm food source.
🧪 WATER TESTING ESSENTIAL: You must have a reliable liquid test kit (API Freshwater Master Kit) and a TDS/Pen meter to succeed. guessing is not an option.
📦 ACCLIMATION: Drip acclimation over 2-3 hours is absolutely mandatory to avoid osmotic shock due to their sensitivity.
Live Arrival Guarantee
We understand the investment you are making. Our shrimp are packed with extreme care in breather bags with plenty of moss. Our live arrival guarantee ensures your precious PRL shrimp are delivered safely. Please be ready to drip acclimate them immediately upon arrival.
Ready to elevate your aquarium hobby? Invest in the best. Add PRL Crystal Shrimp to your cart today.
Captivating Stripes, Exceptional Beauty: The Red Fancy Tiger Shrimp
Short Description:
Elevate your aquarium with the stunning Red Fancy Tiger Shrimp!This extraordinary dwarf shrimp boasts a vibrant red body adorned with crisp, contrasting white stripes, creating a visual masterpiece in any aquascape. A perfect choice for intermediate to advanced hobbyists seeking a unique and rewarding shrimp.
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Key Features & Highlights
· 🎨 UNIQUE STRIPED PATTERN: A spectacular red-and-white pattern developed by crossing Tiger and Crystal Red Shrimp, setting it apart from common solid-colored varieties.
· 🐠 PEACEFUL SCAVENGER: An active and harmless cleaner that helps manage biofilm, algae, and debris, contributing to a balanced tank ecosystem.
· 💎 EYE-CATCHING CONTRAST: The bold stripes create a dazzling display against green aquatic plants and dark substrates, making it a living centerpiece.
· 🧬 BREEDER'S DELIGHT: A fascinating project for selective breeding enthusiasts looking to maintain or enhance this distinctive lineage.
---
Detailed Description
The Red Fancy Tiger Shrimp is a testament to the art of selective breeding. This captivating Caridina variant is known for its energetic personality and stunning appearance, which combines the best traits of its parent species. Its complex ancestry results in a hardy yet exquisite shrimp that is sure to be the highlight of your aquarium.
Unlike more common shrimp, the Red Fancy Tiger offers a dynamic and patterned look that adds depth and movement to your tank. Watching a colony of these striped beauties forage and interact is a endlessly fascinating experience.
Ideal For:
· Intermediate and advanced shrimp keepers
· Patterned shrimp breeding projects
· Species-only tanks or with other peaceful Caridina
· Heavily planted aquariums and nature-style aquascapes
---
Specifications & Care Guide
Parameter Requirement
Scientific Name Caridina mariae "Red Fancy Tiger"
Tank Size 10+ gallons recommended
Temperature 68°F - 78°F (20°C - 26°C)
pH Range 6.0 - 6.8 (Slightly Acidic)
GH 4-6 dGH
KH 0-2 dKH
Diet Omnivore (Biofilm, algae, specialized shrimp foods)
Temperament Peaceful
---
Important Care Considerations
· ⚠️ STABLE WATER CONDITIONS ARE CRITICAL: Like other Caridina shrimp, they are sensitive to fluctuations in water parameters. Consistency is key to success.
· 🚫 AVOID PREDATORY TANKMATES: Best kept in a species-only tank or with other very peaceful invertebrates to prevent stress and predation.
· 🍽️ SUPPLEMENTAL FEEDING ENCOURAGED: While they will graze on biofilm, a high-quality diet ensures vibrant coloration and health.
· 💧 USE A BUFFERING SUBSTRATE: An active substrate is highly recommended to help maintain the soft, acidic water conditions these shrimp thrive in.
---
Live Arrival Guarantee
We understand the importance of healthy livestock. Our shrimp are carefully acclimated and packed with extreme care. We offer a live arrival guarantee to ensure your Red Fancy Tiger Shrimp arrive safely.
Add a stripe of brilliance to your aquarium. Order these unique shrimp today!
General care for shrimp:
Temperature:18°-24°C
Chlorine/chloramines: 0 ppm (very toxic for shrimp)
Ammonia/Nitrite: 0 ppm.
Nitrate: <20 ppm.
pH: 6.2-7.5.
GH: 4-8 dGH
KH: 3-15 dKH
Name
Optimal TDS
Limits
Cherry shrimp
150 – 200
100 – 400
Cardinal shrimp
100
50 – 150
Tiger shrimp
180 – 220
100 – 300
We strongly recommend to drip acclimate any shrimp untill the TDS matches before you release the shrimp into your tank.
Please note the above is just a general indication of the care requirements of shrimp. Results will vary depending on the individuals set up.
NO SHIPPING TO WA
Poly-Filter® – The Ultimate Aquarium Filtration Revolution
Unmatched Purification for Pristine Water
Poly-Filter® is the most advanced chemical filtration media available, engineered to:✔ Remove Ammonia – Supports biological filtration during spikes✔ Eliminate Heavy Metals – Copper, lead, and other toxins✔ Absorb Medications – Fully removes antibiotics, copper treatments & more✔ Control Phosphates – Stops algae at its source✔ Trap Harmful Organics – Without stripping beneficial trace elements
40 PPB Filtration Efficiency – Industry-Leading Performance!
Why Poly-Filter Outperforms Carbon & Resins
🔹 Patented Smart Technology – Changes color to indicate pollutants:
Blue = Copper salts | Green = Free copper
Orange = Iron | Red = Aluminum
Yellow-Green = Ammonia | Black = Organic waste
🔹 No Clogging – Debris clings to fibers while water flows freely🔹 Saltwater & Freshwater Safe – Won’t soften water or disrupt chemistry🔹 Emergency Backup – Maintains nitrogen cycle if biofiltration fails
How to Use
Cut to Size – Shape to fit any filter (HOB, canister, sump)
Replace When Saturated – Color changes signal when it’s exhausted
For Medication Removal – Run after treatments to detoxify water instantly
Bonus Applications
✅ Small Tanks – A square cleans betta/goldfish bowls✅ Algae Removal – Wipe glass with Poly-Filter to lift algae completely✅ Protein Skimmer Alternative – Reduces water change frequency
Scientifically Proven, Continually Improved
Invented by marine biologists & chemists
U.S. EPA-tested & patented (latest upgrade in 1997)
20+ Years of Excellence – Still the gold standard in filtration
"It Just Makes Keeping Fish Easier!"
Available in Sheets – Customizable for Any Aquarium!
Poly-Filter® – The Ultimate Aquarium Filtration Revolution
Unmatched Purification for Pristine Water
Poly-Filter® is the most advanced chemical filtration media available, engineered to:✔ Remove Ammonia – Supports biological filtration during spikes✔ Eliminate Heavy Metals – Copper, lead, and other toxins✔ Absorb Medications – Fully removes antibiotics, copper treatments & more✔ Control Phosphates – Stops algae at its source✔ Trap Harmful Organics – Without stripping beneficial trace elements
40 PPB Filtration Efficiency – Industry-Leading Performance!
Why Poly-Filter Outperforms Carbon & Resins
🔹 Patented Smart Technology – Changes color to indicate pollutants:
Blue = Copper salts | Green = Free copper
Orange = Iron | Red = Aluminum
Yellow-Green = Ammonia | Black = Organic waste
🔹 No Clogging – Debris clings to fibers while water flows freely🔹 Saltwater & Freshwater Safe – Won’t soften water or disrupt chemistry🔹 Emergency Backup – Maintains nitrogen cycle if biofiltration fails
How to Use
Cut to Size – Shape to fit any filter (HOB, canister, sump)
Replace When Saturated – Color changes signal when it’s exhausted
For Medication Removal – Run after treatments to detoxify water instantly
Bonus Applications
✅ Small Tanks – A square cleans betta/goldfish bowls✅ Algae Removal – Wipe glass with Poly-Filter to lift algae completely✅ Protein Skimmer Alternative – Reduces water change frequency
Scientifically Proven, Continually Improved
Invented by marine biologists & chemists
U.S. EPA-tested & patented (latest upgrade in 1997)
20+ Years of Excellence – Still the gold standard in filtration
"It Just Makes Keeping Fish Easier!"
Available in Sheets – Customizable for Any Aquarium!
Due to limited stock we limited to one per address!
Included in all orders over $100
Copper has been known to be the most industrious metals and one that has many applications and uses. Other than Gold or Silver, Copper is known to be most used in coinage in the past.
Nano Tanks Australia has had the privilege to mint these coins for our customer.
This listing will give you the opportunity to own a piece of Nano Tanks Australia history and these 100 coins will have future application to the Nano Tanks Australia brand
These coins are marked with a Z to show they are special
Specifications
Around 1 Troy Ounce 31.1g of pure 999 copper
Mintage is 2757 with 14 Proofs at around 40-50g
Side 1 contains the Nano Tanks Australia website and the details of the coin
Side 2 contains the Nano Tanks Australia logo.
Distribution
14 Proofs was sent to 4 VVIP Customers while the remaining has not been allocated.
22 was sent to those who purchased on January 2022 for a certain value.
8 was distributed to Family and Friends
367 are marked with the Day and Month in the format of Day and Month eg DM0710 for 7th October
115 are marked with the Year within the range of 1945 - 2049
30 was distributed to our suppliers
100 are reserved for Present and Future Staff of Nano Tanks Australia
FREE SHIPPING
CONDITION
1 PER CUSTOMER IRRESPECTIVE OF ORDERS
CANNOT BE SHIPPED BY ITSELF
$100 minimum order
Unleash Plant Potential with Aqua Natural Iron Sand
Short Description:Elevate your aquascape with Aqua Natural Iron Sand, the premium substrate designed for the serious planted aquarium enthusiast. This nutrient-rich, magnetic black sand promotes explosive root growth and vibrant plant coloration, all while creating a stunning, natural backdrop that makes your aquatic life truly pop.
Key Features & Highlights (Bullet Points)
🌱 BOOSTS PLANT HEALTH & COLOR: Infused with bio-available iron and essential micronutrients, this sand directly feeds root systems, encouraging lush, dense growth and intensifying red and green hues in your plants.
🧲 MAGNETIC & EASY TO MAINTAIN: Its unique magnetic property allows for easy cleaning with an algae magnet, keeping your aquascape pristine without disturbing the substrate or uprooting delicate plants.
🎨 STUNNING VISUAL CONTRAST: The deep, rich black color provides a perfect canvas. It highlights the vibrant colors of your fish, shrimp, and plants, creating a professional-grade aquascape with dramatic depth.
⚖️ NEUTRAL & STABLE: Aqua Natural Iron Sand is chemically inert and will not alter your water's pH or hardness, making it a safe and stable choice for all freshwater aquariums, including sensitive shrimp tanks.
🦐 SAFE FOR ALL AQUATIC LIFE: The fine, smooth grains are perfectly safe for delicate bottom dwellers like Corydoras catfish, loaches, and freshwater shrimp, allowing them to forage naturally without risk of injury.
Detailed Description
Transform your aquarium into a thriving, living work of art. Aqua Natural Iron Sand isn't just a substrate; it's a foundation for success. Formulated specifically for the demands of modern aquascaping, this innovative sand provides a long-term source of essential nutrients that are delivered directly to your plants' roots—where they need it most.
Watch as your carpeting plants, such as Dwarf Hairgrass or Monte Carlo, spread rapidly and anchor themselves firmly into the nutrient-dense grains. See the true potential of your red plants, like Rotala or Ludwigia, as the added iron helps them develop intensely saturated colors.
Beyond its functional benefits, this sand offers unparalleled ease of maintenance. Its magnetic nature means you can effortlessly clean the surface of unsightly debris and algae with a simple algae magnet glass cleaner, a feature unique to iron-based sands.
Create the breathtaking underwater landscape you've always envisioned. Aqua Natural Iron Sand provides the beauty, the function, and the simplicity for a truly stunning and healthy aquarium.
Ideal For:
High-tech and low-tech planted aquariums
Shrimp tanks (Cherry, Crystal, Amano, etc.)
Aquascaping and Nature Aquarium-style tanks
Tanks with bottom-dwelling fish (Corydoras, Loaches, etc.)
Anyone seeking a nutrient-rich, dark substrate
Specifications & Usage Guide (At a Glance)
Parameter
Details
Color
Deep Black
Grain Size
Fine Sand (0.5mm - 1.0mm)
Chemical Properties
Chemically Inert - Will not alter pH or KH
Nutrient Content
Rich in Iron (Fe) and Trace Micronutrients
Recommended Depth
1.5 - 2 inches (4 - 6 cm) for planted areas
Cleaning
Rinse lightly before use
Packaging
Sealed BAG
How to Use:
Rinse: Lightly rinse the sand in a bucket with clean water until the water runs clear.
Place: Carefully add the sand to your empty aquarium, sloping it from front to back for depth.
Aquascape: Place hardscape (rocks, driftwood) and add plants.
Fill: Place a small dish on the substrate and slowly pour water onto it to fill the tank without disturbing the sand bed.
Enjoy: Cycle your tank and watch your plants thrive!
Important Notes & Considerations
Magnetic Property: This sand is attracted to magnets. Use a NON magnetic algae cleaner for easy maintenance.
Initial Cloudiness: Some initial cloudiness is normal after setup. It will clear within 24-48 hours as the fine particles settle.
Plant Rooting: While nutrient-rich, the fine grain size can be compact. For heavy root feeders, consider supplementing with root tabs after 12-18 months as initial nutrients deplete.
Compatibility: Safe for all freshwater fish, invertebrates, and plants.
Why Choose Aqua Natural?
✅ Premium Quality: Meticulously processed for clarity and consistency.
✅ Expertly Formulated: Designed by aquascapers for aquascapers.
✅ Sustainable: Sourced and packaged with the environment in mind.
✅ Supported by Community: Trusted by hobbyists worldwide.
Create a masterpiece. Give your plants the foundation they deserve with Aqua Natural Iron Sand.
Phosphate-free African GH Conditioner replicates the mineral-rich waters of African Great Lakes, enhancing cichlid health, osmosis, fertility, and egg production. It raises GH and stabilizes pH, with dosage adjustments recommended for Tanganyika, Malawi, or mixed African cichlid tanks.\n
Phosphate-free African GH Conditioner replicates the mineral-rich waters of African Great Lakes, enhancing cichlid health, osmosis, fertility, and egg production. It raises GH and stabilizes pH, with dosage adjustments recommended for Tanganyika, Malawi, or mixed African cichlid tanks.\n
Phosphate-free African GH Conditioner replicates the mineral-rich waters of African Great Lakes, enhancing cichlid health, osmosis, fertility, and egg production. It raises GH and stabilizes pH, with dosage adjustments recommended for Tanganyika, Malawi, or mixed African cichlid tanks.\n
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