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With a standard length of 45cm (17.72 inches), the Fahaka puffer is the second largest freshwater pufferfish, second to the Tetraodon mbu.
They can be found in rivers and lakes and are known to inhabit heavily sheltered areas of water across the entire length of the Nile River. It can be found throughout Eastern Africa, Northern Africa, Northeast Africa and Western Africa.
They prey predominantly on snails, small freshwater crabs, insect larvae and other benthic creatures
The Fahaka is not bred commercially so all specimens available for sale are wild-caught.
Wild-caught juvenile Fahaka are reasonably common in most areas of the world. Collection for the aquatic trade is not considered a threat but the number of individuals taken from the wild or the size of wild populations is not known.
The Fahaka was assessed in 2019 and the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) classifies the species as 'Least Concern'. However, changes in habitats due to human activity (agriculture, aquaculture, and pollution) may threaten the species in future.
According to several sources, the Fahaka puffer is also harvested for human consumption.
In the aquarium
The Fahaka is a medium-large and intelligent species of pufferfish, so it requires a large aquarium with a complex and enriching scape design to keep it occupied.
This pufferfish avoids open areas of water in its natural habitat because it feels too exposed and the same is true in aquariums, so the tank must offer the pufferfish areas in which it can take cover.
This is especially important in young Fahaka puffers or newly imported adults. A busy scape will help them feel more safe and secure, and their confidence will grow in time. You can give an enriching aquarium by providing an elaborate scape with lots of caves and hiding spaces to explore, but keep their size in mind and maintain plenty of open swimming space too. You can heavily decorate a tank for a juvenile and then enlarge the open areas as the fish grows.
An appropriately scaped tank will help the large yet shy Fahaka puffer feel secure and confident, knowing that it can take cover quickly if needed which will result in more assertive and explorative behaviours.
Fahaka puffers are often plant biters and plants with long, thin shoots, such as Tiger Lotus, Crinum calamistratum and Crypt balansae, will likely be decimated by the pufferfish within a short period of time. Even the toughest plants, such as Anubias, will suffer from the occasional attack, so it is important to choose hardy species which can withstand and recover from these bites. Plants like Anubias, Java Fern, Bolbitis and Amazon Sword are good choices for these fish. Floating plants, such as Amazon Frogbit, give dappled shade which is also appreciated by this fish.
Cheap stem plants, such as Limnophila sessiliflora grow well in the sand substrate. The fish will bite at the plants, but they will quickly recover because they grow so fast.
The flow in the aquarium should be medium to strong, but never overpowering. The strength of the flow is usually achieved with spray bars from canister filters angled towards the top of the water. By keeping a slightly dropped water level, so that the returning water from the filter splashes down onto the surface, it will create the agitation required whilst also facilitating gas exchange for high levels of oxygenation.
Powerheads with narrow gaps in the grill may be used to create additional flow. We would advise that cages or guards (such as anemone guards) are used on powerheads to prevent injury to the fish if they become trapped. Avoid any exposed power cables into the aquarium as a Fahaka puffer can easily bite through them.
With the correct care, the Fahaka can live in excess of 20 years.
A fish that lives for 20+ years will be with you through a lot of changes in your life, so these fish obviously represent a long-term commitment.
Substrate
The Fahaka is a wallowing species of pufferfish and should always be provided with a substrate that allows it to indulge in this natural behaviour.
A usable substrate is a critical component of enrichment for this fish. They wallow for several reasons, such as to hunt, to avoid the detection of bigger predators (who might eat them), or simply just to safely rest.
Pufferfish dig into the substrate by nose-diving the ground and using their powerful tails to push their whole body forward into the substrate. If the substrate is too hard or abrasive then it may cause scrapes and scratches which could be painful for the fish and predispose it to bacterial and/or fungal infections. Fungal and bacterial organisms will take full advantage of even minor abrasions, so it is important that we do everything we can to prevent such injuries. As a general rule, fine sand is the best option for any wallowing species of pufferfish. The softer/smoother the sand is, the better for the pufferfish.
Play sand or Pool Filter sand can also be used, providing that it is fine enough and doesn't contain any potentially harmful chemicals. Gravel and plant-soil/substrates are unsuitable for the Fahaka and may cause injury if the fish attempts to wallow in it. Any sharp or coarse pieces should be avoided/removed.
The depth of the sand should always match the depth of the fish's body. It is recommended to start as shallow as possible and then gradually increase the depth of the substrate as the fish grows. This fish will disturb the substrate on a regular basis by moving from place to place within the sand, but it is recommended that the keeper regularly stirs up the substrate to stop the sand from ‘compacting’ to prevent the build-up of anaerobic bacterial populations. The depth of substrate required for an adult Fahaka puffer will need stirring at least once a week.
The Fahaka can adjust their colouration to better blend in with their surroundings. We recommend using paler substrates which will encourage the fish to display its most visually appealing colouration.
Bare-bottomed / Tile-bottomed Tanks
Some keepers may choose a bare-bottomed or Tile-bottomed aquarium because they feel they are easier to keep clean or may find it more visually appealing for themselves, but the primary concern when designing an aquarium should always be the welfare of the animals that you intend to keep in it.
Bare-bottomed tanks deny a wallower the opportunity to express its natural behaviour and the keeper should never elect to deprive an animal of crucial enrichment.
A Fahaka puffer is healthiest and happiest when they are given a suitable substrate.
The only time bare-bottomed tanks should be considered is during the initial quarantine or during worming treatment.
Tank size
As the Fahaka puffer can achieve lengths exceeding 45cm (17.72 inches), Pufferfish Enthusiasts Worldwide recommends a tank no smaller than 5x2x2 (60"x24"x24") for a Fahaka puffer. This translates to a tank volume of approximately 570 litres / 150 US gallons.
The dimensions of the tank are the most important facet of suitability, not the amount of water it can hold. A five-foot tank is only just over 3x the length of a fully grown, healthy Fahaka puffer and the 2 feet depth (front to back) only just allows a 17" fish to turn around within and change its course; so we are sure you can appreciate why we would not want to go any smaller than this.
We would like to stress that a 5x2x2 tank is what we consider as the absolute minimum for this fish and that bigger always equals better.
Old care guides, commonly authored by English keepers, recommend a "120 gallon tank", but they are actually referring to Imperial gallons, which is roughly 150 US gallons. Imperial gallons and US liquid gallons do not share an equilibrium and this is important to recognise.
The second factor that you must consider is the tank's dimensions. A tank may contain the recommended 120 Imperial gallons, but the dimensions may be incorrect for the fish. For example, cylinder or corner tanks of 120 Imperial gallons would be totally unsuitable for Fahaka.
The growth rate of Fahaka
The Fahaka grows incredibly quickly when the care is correct.
Young Fahaka need to grow quickly in the wild or they will soon be eaten by bigger fish.
The Fahaka has an initial growth spurt, in which it grows very quickly. You should expect a healthy Fahaka to grow at least 2.5 cm (1 inch) every four weeks for the first 10 months of its life, with the remainder of its growth being achieved in the following 12 months.
For this reason, we don't actually recommend grow-out tanks for this species. We strongly encourage keepers to put the fish straight into their forever tank. This will avoid stunting and the extra expense of buying multiple tanks over a very short period of time. Fahaka are enthusiastic foragers and will be quite happy exploring the whole tank in search of food, providing that the tank is scaped as explained above (read In the aquarium)
Myth about size
We would like to challenge the common falsehood that captive Fahaka puffers are incapable of growing as large as wild specimens, so such large tanks are not required.
In actual fact, Fahaka puffers (like most fish) should have a better chance under captive management of achieving their full potential size than wild ones and should also live for a significantly longer time.
Under good husbandry, the Fahaka puffer should be receiving optimal nutrition through a steady supply of high-quality foods - without the seasonal famines that they would experience in the wild - and the parasites that compete with the fish for nutrients and other resources (which would go unchecked in the wild) can be completely eradicated in captivity. The water quality in their aquariums should be excellent, with no pollutants, there should be no harsh climatic conditions for the fish to deal with, and diseases can be treated quickly.
Your Fahaka puffer should also be significantly less stressed in captivity because they should not have any food competition, territorial fights with other fish and the risk of predation would be completely removed. It is well known that fish who experience less stress enjoy lower metabolic rates, more energy and stamina, can better absorb the nutrients they consume and are able to better spend that energy on growth and development.
When conditions are not optimal, the fish have a lower chance of achieving full size.
It is not captivity that stunts the growth of fish. It is the traditionally poor husbandry that so many Fahaka puffers have received which stunts the growth and has led to the myth that they are incapable of growing so large
Water parameters
Maintain the following water parameters:
PH: 6.5 - 7.5
Temp: 22 - 26°C (71.6 -78.8°F)
NH3/NH4+: 0ppm
N02: 0ppm
N03: below 15ppm *ideal
GH: 5-15 dGH
Tankmates
If you're looking for a calm, peaceful puffer who can live with other fish then the Fahaka is not the species you should be looking at.
Young Fahaka pufferfish rarely attack tank mates, but they typically become very aggressive, territorial and antisocial as the fish develops and begins to reach sexual maturity. It is very common for Fahaka puffers to turn on their tankmates unexpectedly, even if they have been together for a long time. Fahaka pufferfish have powerful bites and can inflict serious injuries on other fish with ease. These injuries are not always instantly fatal and it is very common for their victims to live for several days after the initial attack. We have seen Fahaka pufferfish die themselves after attacking their tank mates. These instances include huge ammonia spikes caused by the dead fish in the tank, corydoras and pleco spines becoming lodged in the throat of the Fahaka and disease caused by injuries and stress.
For these reasons, we consider it highly unethical to keep other fish with the Fahaka
Cohabitation
We do not recommend keeping more than one Fahaka puffer to an aquarium because they are not a social fish, and any conspecific will just be viewed as competition for food and territory, making fights incredibly likely.
Sexual dimorphism
There are no known methods of determining the sex of this species for the home aquarist, except that females may produce unfertilised eggs occasionally, which should be siphoned out of the aquarium as soon as possible
Notable behaviour
Fahaka puffers are very sensitive creatures and they have a distinctive stress pattern that can be seen in even slightly irritated specimens. When the Fahaka is stressed its colouration will appear washed out with a darkened line stretching between the eyes (commonly referred to as a stress-brow) and dark bars which arch across the back.
A Fahaka puffer may display the stress pattern during tank maintenance or if it has been spooked by something outside of the aquarium, like brightly coloured clothing or an unfamiliar object. If this behaviour is sustained and there are no obvious causes then the keeper is encouraged to investigate for other potential sources of stress
Feeding
The majority of the Fahaka puffer's natural diet consists of the crabs, shrimp, and snails - of all sizes - that are found in their natural habitat. Other components include worms and other benthic creatures.
Fahaka puffers also eat several species of American crayfish that are now an invasive species in their natural habitat.
We encourage keepers to replicate the natural diet of their pufferfish as closely as possible. Wild Fahaka puffers eat a very diverse range of prey and it is your responsibility as a keeper of a captive Fahaka to provide as many different kinds of appropriate foods as possible.
Aside from providing a variety of flavours and textures for food enrichment, a varied diet of suitable foods will supply a greater spectrum of nutrients to your fish that are essential to the health, growth, development and long lifespan of the Fahaka puffer.
The following diet suggestions and food items are suitable for Fahaka puffers of all ages and sizes, but portion and food item size needs to be modulated to suit the size of the fish.
Suitable foods for this species include:
Frozen-thawed freshwater crabs
Frozen-thawed crayfish
Large terrestrial and aquatic snails
Insects including Gutloaded cockroaches, crickets, locusts and woodlice
Earthworms
Repashy foods - eg GrubPie
A high-quality, hard pellet food (protein not derived from vegetable sources
We suggest breaking down the diet (as shown in the chart) to approximately 55% freshwater crabs & crayfish, 25% freshwater snails, 10% insects, 5% earthworms, and a 5% mix of foods such as Repashy and a high-quality pellet food (preferably sinking pellet).
Responsibly sourced cockles can be fed, but should not be offered in any great portion and within the suggested 5% mix of food.
It is best to feed several small meals throughout the day rather than offering larger, less frequent meals. This helps keep the pufferfish occupied throughout the day and allows the fish to digest smaller portions.
This species should not be offered krill, mussel, clams, or oysters.
Unsuitable foods can result in stunted growth and poor health.
Frozen-thawed crayfish and crabs
Pufferfish Enthusiasts Worldwide recommends feeding only frozen-thawed crayfish and crabs.
We strongly discourage keepers from feeding live crayfish and crabs for the following reasons;
It is true that these pufferfish are hunting live crayfish and crabs in the wild and there is an argument that hunting live food offers your puffer a level of enrichment that it does not receive through eating frozen-thawed. However, we believe that the risks greatly outweigh the benefits.
Very few things enjoy being eaten by pufferfish; crayfish and crabs definitely fall into the category of things that don't want to be devoured. They will try to defend themselves using their sharp claws, which can easily injure your puffer.
Whilst these fish may have thick skin, we often see puffers with injured lips, cuts on their body and even missing/damaged eyes from where a live crayfish or crab has tried to defend itself. Wild Fahaka puffers often suffer from hunting injuries, many of which become infected and prove fatal for the fish.
Some keepers opt for removing the claws from live crayfish and crabs before offering them to the pufferfish, however, this practice raises some serious ethical questions as mutilating the animal prior to throwing it in to be chased, crushed, and then chewed maximises that animal's suffering. It should be our primary objective as responsible and ethical keepers of predatory fish to ensure the welfare of not just the fish we keep but also that of the prey they eat by minimising the pain and suffering as far as reasonably possible.
Things that do enjoy being eaten by pufferfish are the parasites that use crustaceans as intermediate hosts and will then infect your fish upon being consumed. Feeding crayfish and crabs that have not been frozen significantly increases the chances of introducing these parasites to your puffer. Dead organisms obviously can't fight back and as the freezing process kills the parasites, feeding frozen-thawed eliminates both the risk of injury and parasite transfer.
Frozen crayfish and crabs must be thawed before feeding to your Fahaka puffer. Select the amount of prey that you wish to feed out of the freezer and thaw it out in the fridge the night before.
Some members of PEW breed their own crayfish at home then euthanise them prior to freezing. This is a convenient method for some keepers, but it should be noted that raising enough crayfish to meet the demands of a fully grown Fahaka puffer can be very finance, space and time-consuming. Typically, the cheapest and easiest procurement of crayfish and freshwater crabs is buying them in bulk from fishmongers and Asian supermarkets.
Whatever you decide to do, it is a good idea to check the availability of these food items; if that supply is reliable or subject to seasonal availability, ensure that you will be able to maintain their required diet all year round
Filtration and tank maintenance
This pufferfish is intolerant of poor water conditions, so a high level of biological and mechanical filtration is needed to deal with the amount of waste that this fish produces.
Good filtration combined with excellent husbandry is essential to the health of this species. Frequent water changes must be carried out to maintain NO3 (nitrate) levels below 15ppm; or as close to zero as possible. We recommend a minimum water change of 50% every seven days.
Inflation
The Fahaka puffer can inflate themselves when frightened or stressed. They should never be provoked into inflating!
It is common for this species to "practice puff", which is when the fish casually inflates itself for no apparent reason. It is believed that they do this to stretch and strengthen the muscles associated with inflation.
"Practise puffs" are usually very short-lived. If your puffer remains inflated, investigate for sources of stress.
Reference taken from
https://www.pufferfishenthusiastsworldwide.com/post/fahaka-puffer-care-sheet
Described By:
(Boulenger), 1915
😊 Description
Temperament
Peaceful Predator
Colour Form
Varied Bright Colours.
Males - Coloured Tails ♂️
Females - Plain Tails ♀️
Lifespan
Roughly 5 years
Diet
🥩 Carnivores - feeds on pellets, live foods and frozen foods.
Minimum Tank Size
20 Litres
Tank Setup
Plants - Such as Duckweed, Anubias or Java Fern with many rocks and woods. Such as Dragon Stone, Dragon Wood, Quan Woods.
Compatibility
Peaceful - However due to the size please be aware that it can be eaten by bigger fish.
To keep your Clown Killifish happy, their habitat should be well lit, water parameters excellent, and a gentle current from the filter set. If you give your clown Killies these conditions, they can live for 5 years!
Rocket Killie
Clown Killies are also known as rocket killies and banded panchax. Coming from western Africa, they are found in southern Guinea, Liberia, and Sierra Leone. The Clown Killifish is a peaceful micro-predator that feeds primarily on tiny flying insects and invertebrates.
😊 Can we expect some clowning around?
Clown Killifish are shy (they are rather small) but they will become more playful when in a group, so expect some interesting schooling behaviour. They even enjoy jumping out of the water for some fun! Make sure to keep their tank lid tightly fitted so that these fish can have as much space as possible to live and play around without the risk of an excursion on the floor.
😊 A unique look
Clown Killifish are also called Rocket Killies because they resemble tiny rockets. In addition, they have torpedo-shaped bodies that help them swim up for food, and they even appear as a fishy clown with round heads and spade-like tails.
😊 Keeping Clown Killifish in the Aquarium
You can choose to house Clown Killies in larger community tanks that are already occupied by other species. The downside is the fish won't reproduce as often if they're placed with another type of inhabitant, so you should know what kind of goal you have for keeping these types of fishes before giving them a home.
😊 Are these fish easy to breed?
If you have a male and female in your tank, don't worry about mating. Just maintain healthy water parameters to keep them alive, and they will breed when it's the right time every month! Clown Killies are prolific parents who can produce up to 25 fry per cycle - twice each month until their population numbers get out of hand!
😊 Feeding your Clown Killies
Clown Killies are carnivores that need a lot of meaty protein, but they can only eat tiny portions. They lay in wait for the insects to land on the water's surface and then eat their prey - or what could be considered for them a tasty meat morsel!
Ideally, in captivity, we can try mimicking what can be in the natural environment: baby brine shrimp 1-2 times a day should do it!
There is advice on other foods on the internet but realistically, sticking with brine shrimp for a treat is good enough and achievable without spending a fortune.
PLEASE CONTACT US FIRST BEFORE YOU ORDER ANY FEMALES AS WE WILL HAVE TO CHECK OUR STOCK!
Described By:
Géry & Uj, 1987
😊 Description
Temperament
Peaceful Predator
Colour Form
Varied Bright Colours.
Not Sexually Dimorphic - difference only when eggs are present.
Lifespan
Roughly 2 years
Diet
🥩🌿 Omnivores - feeds on pellets, live foods and frozen foods.
Minimum Tank Size
20 Litres
Tank Setup
Plants - Such as Duckweed, Anubias or Java Fern with many rocks and woods. Such as Dragon Stone, Dragon Wood, Quan Woods.
Compatibility
Peaceful - However due to the size please be aware that it can be eaten by bigger fish.
😊 Habitat
Little information appears to exist but presumably inhabits minor tributaries, backwaters and oxbow lakes rather than main river channels. In the Araguaia drainage such habitats typically contain soft, weakly acidic water with the substrate covered by a layer of fallen leaves and branches.
😊 How many ember tetras in a 10 gallon tank?
In a 10 gallon tank you can have around 12 - 18 ember tetras.
😊 How many ember tetras in a 5 gallon tank?
In a 10 gallon tank you can have around 6 ember tetras.
😊 How to breed ember tetras?
Ember Tetras are egg scatterers. Most people don't really bother with breeding Ember Tetras as they are a low value fish. In Australia, if you were going to breed anything, consider breeding fighting fish or shrimps.
😊 What do ember tetras eat?
We recommend you provide Ember Tetras with plenty of varied foods like Hikari Micro Pellets or Prestige Bettas Golden Pearl Fry Foods.
Interesting Facts About The Ramshorn Snails
Overview
Ramshorn Snail is a prevalent aquarium species that plays a significant role in keeping your tank clean. They feed on decayed plants, fish waste, debris, algae buildup, and uneaten fish food. These aquatic snails sneak their way through tanks, hitch themselves and lay eggs to live plants. Depending on the objective, these aquarium tank mates can serve as a helpful cleaner or be a pest.
Compared to other types of snail, Ramshorns require minimal snail care that making them one of the top species in the aquarium trade. As a result, these snails are available to most pet stores nowadays.
Characteristics
Ramshorn snails differ significantly in their appearance. Both its skin and shell can be different in colors, creating numerous color combinations. There are varieties such as common, pink, blue, and red ramshorn snails.
Their typical skin color is either red or black. Red snails have a vibrant color because of their red blood hemoglobins. On the other hand, Black snails have melanin pigment that the red ones don't possess.
Unlike other freshwater snails, Ramshorns don't have an operculum. As a result, these snails are not able to breathe underwater and must breathe air instead.
Ramshorn snails are hermaphrodites that can grow up to 1 inch as they get older. Their average life span is in between 1 to 3 years.
Tank requirements
Ramshorns are solitary and peaceful snails that can quickly adapt to various water conditions.
These freshwater aquarium snails love planted tanks and enjoy stable water quality. However, they are mainly being targeted by aggressive fish, so keeping them with the peaceful ones is necessary.
The ideal tank size should be at least a 5-gallon tank, but it is advisable to upgrade into a 10-gallon tank if you're planning to keep multiple snails.
Water Parameters
Ph Level: 7 - 8
Hardness (GH) : 7 - 15
Carbonate Hardness (KH): 8
Nitrate: Below 20 ppm
Temperature: 70°F – 78°F
Tankmates
More extensive, aggressive fish are mainly targeting ramshorn snails. It ideal keep them with peaceful tankmates like shrimp, clams, friendly snails, gourami, danios, and teras.
Note: Some aggressive snails like the Assassin snail love to devour pond snails, ramshorn snails, and Malaysian trumpet snails.
Feeding
Before anything else, it is vital to be sure that the food you will serve to your snails is copper-free as they could quickly die from it. By any chance, If you cannot avoid putting copper-contained products into your tank, it is highly recommended to transfer the snails to a different aquarium.
Ramshorn snails are can easily be fed, and one of their favorites is algae. They are bound to search for algae all over the tank. They also feast on rotting plants, dead shrimp and fish, uneaten food like pellets and fish flakes.
You can always give them some treats like algae wafers and vegetables like cauliflower, lettuce, cucumber, and squash.
Breeding
all you need to have is at least two of them because ramshorn snails are hermaphrodites, meaning they have sexual organs of both male and female. And because of that, they could quickly breed with any other snail.
These snails lay multiple egg clusters all over the tank. Each group contains an average of 12 eggs. And after few days, the baby snails will be visible from the inside.
Vibrant Red & White Elegance for Your Aquarium!
Short Description:Experience the mesmerizing beauty of Crystal Red Shrimp! These stunning Caridina cantonensis feature brilliant red segments separated by pure white bands, creating a captivating candy-cane effect. A perfect choice for planted tanks and dedicated shrimp colonies, offering both spectacular beauty and beneficial cleaning activity.
Key Features & Highlights
❤️ STRIKING RED & WHITE CONTRAST: Vivid red coloration punctuated by bright white bands creates a stunning visual impact that enhances any aquascape
⭐ PREMIUM GENETICS: Carefully selected for intense color saturation and desirable pattern expression - ideal for breeding projects
🌿 NATURAL CLEAN-UP CREW: Constant grazers that help maintain tank cleanliness by consuming biofilm, algae, and organic debris
💧 REWARDING CHALLENGE: Perfect for hobbyists ready to advance beyond beginner shrimp while offering manageable care requirements
👁 CAPTIVATING BEHAVIOR: Active and engaging shrimp that provide endless entertainment as they forage and interact
Detailed Description
Welcome to the world of Crystal Red Shrimp, one of the most iconic and sought-after dwarf shrimp varieties in the aquarium hobby. These magnificent invertebrates bring an explosion of color and activity to any setup with their striking red and white banding. Each shrimp displays a unique pattern of intense red and crisp white markings, creating a living mosaic that becomes more fascinating as your colony expands.
Perfect for intermediate aquarists looking to expand their skills, Crystal Red Shrimp offer the ideal balance of challenge and achievement. They flourish in well-established, stable aquariums where they can exhibit their natural behaviors and maintain their vibrant coloration. Observing a colony of these red-and-white jewels going about their daily activities is like watching living gemstones moving through your aquascape.
Whether you're establishing a dedicated shrimp tank or adding spectacular color to a planted aquarium, Crystal Red Shrimp deliver exceptional beauty and practical benefits. Their constant grazing helps maintain tank health while their dazzling appearance provides year-round visual interest.
Perfect For:
Planted aquariums and nature scapes
Dedicated shrimp breeding projects
Intermediate hobbyists
Aquarists seeking vibrant color contrast
Natural biofilm and algae control
Specifications & Care Guide
Parameter
Requirement
Scientific Name
Caridina cantonensis
Tank Size
5-10+ gallons for colony
Temperature
64-76°F (18-24°C)
pH Range
5.8-6.8 (slightly acidic)
GH
4-6 dGH
KH
0-2 dKH
TDS
100-150
Adult Size
1-1.2 inches (2.5-3 cm)
Care Instructions & Feeding
Setup: Requires a fully cycled aquarium with stable parameters. Use active substrate for pH buffering and include ample hiding spots with plants, mosses, and hardscape.
Feeding: Supplement their natural biofilm diet with specialized shrimp foods, blanched vegetables (zucchini, spinach), and mineral supplements for optimal health and color development.
Water Changes: Regular small water changes (10-15% weekly) with remineralized RO or distilled water recommended.
Acclimation: Drip acclimate over 2-3 hours due to sensitivity to parameter changes.
Important Considerations
⚠️ WATER SENSITIVITY: Sensitive to rapid parameter changes and nitrogen compounds
🚫 COPPER WARNING: Extremely sensitive to copper - avoid copper-based medications
🔬 STABILITY REQUIRED: Require consistent water parameters for long-term success
🦐 TANKMATES: Keep with other peaceful inhabitants or in species-only tanks
🌡 TEMPERATURE CONTROL: Maintain stable temperatures below 76°F (24°C)
Live Arrival Guarantee
We carefully pack our shrimp with plenty of java moss and protection for their journey. Our live arrival guarantee ensures your Crystal Red Shrimp arrive healthy and active. Please be prepared to acclimate them immediately upon arrival.
Create a stunning underwater display with these red-and-white jewels. Add Crystal Red Shrimp to your collection today!
General care for shrimp:
Temperature:18°-24°C
Chlorine/chloramines: 0 ppm (very toxic for shrimp)
Ammonia/Nitrite: 0 ppm.
Nitrate: <20 ppm.
pH: 6.2-7.5.
GH: 4-8 dGH
KH: 3-15 dKH
Name
Optimal TDS
Limits
Cherry shrimp
150 – 200
100 – 400
Cardinal shrimp
100
50 – 150
Tiger shrimp
180 – 220
100 – 300
We strongly recommend to drip acclimate any shrimp untill the TDS matches before you release the shrimp into your tank.
Please note the above is just a general indication of the care requirements of shrimp. Results will vary depending on the individuals set up.
NO SHIPPING TO WA
Overview
Synonyms
Labrus trichopterus, Trichopus trichopterus, Trichopus sepat, Trichogaster trichopterus, Osphromenus siamensis, Osphromenus insulatus
Distribution
A captive bred colour form
Maximum Size
15cm (6")
Temperature
23-30°C
Water Parameters
Will acclimatise to a wide range of conditions. pH: 6-8, dH: 5-20 degrees.
Compatibility
Community with no long-finned fish
Lighting
No special requirements
Sexual Dimorphism
Males have a longer and more pointed dorsal fin.
Feeding
Flake, granules and frozen foods
Description
Care
Gold Gouramis are a domesticated strain of Blue gourami and are a familiar sight in community set ups. Males are inclined to be rather competitive with one another and show the marbled pattern seen in other forms when at their most assertive. These fish have long been used as a larger accent fish amongst smaller shoaling species and the key to successful cohabitation is to keep them occupied. Although gouramis are often sold as pairs, these are not monogamous fish and males will court females in the knowledge that they'd leave his territory if they weren't interested. In the confines of an aquarium this is not an option, so add multiple females to spread the male's attention. The sexes can be easily distinguished by the shape of their dorsal fin - small and rounded in females, long and pointed in males. As this fish comes in many colour forms such as Blue, Opaline, Three-spot, Gold and White (a very pale strain of gold) these can all be mixed if you so desire. To allow them to avoid one another on occasion, the aquarium should be over 90cm/36" in length, with a good amount of aquatic planting to provide shelter and break the sightlines. Like most gouramis, the hair-like pelvic fins are equipped with taste buds and are used extensively to investigate their environment and one another.
Feeding
An omnivorous species which should be offered a varied diet consisting of a good quality flake food, green flake food, and frozen foods such as mosquito larvae, brineshrimp etc. This species should also be allowed to graze on soft fine-leaved plants.
Breeding
This egg-laying species can be bred successfully in the aquarium. Males build a bubble nest at the waters surface and initiate spawning. As soon as the eggs have been fertilised, the male usually gathers them up and places them in the nest. The female should be removed immediately after spawning has ceased as the male will continually try and drive her away, causing her much stress in the closed environment of an aquarium. The male will tend to the eggs until they hatch and the fry are free-swimming.
The red wagtail platy is a pleasant and peaceful freshwater fish that's both hardy and active. It's also small, pretty, and a great fish for hobbyists of any level; in fact, it's one of the most popular in the fishkeeping industry. You can find platies in several different colors which make for an eye-catching tank. The platy has two goals in life: eating and breeding. They will circle the tank eating anything, including algae, and their breeding can't be stopped. Like guppies, platies are livebearing fish.
Species Overview
Common Name: Red wagtail platy
Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
Adult Size: 2-3 inches
Life Expectancy: 4 years
Characteristics
Family Poeciliidae
Origin Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico
Social Peaceful
Tank Level Mid-dweller
Optimal Tank Size 10 gallon
Diet Omnivore, eats most foods
Breeding Livebearer
Care Easy
pH 7.0 to 8.0
Hardness 10 to 28 dGH
Temperature 64 to 78 F (18 to 26 C)
Rosy Barbs are a popular and active freshwater aquarium fish that are known for their striking colors and hardiness. They are a part of the Barb family, which is known for its active and energetic species.
Rosy Barbs are native to Southern Asia and can be found in streams, rivers, and ponds in countries such as India, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. They are relatively easy to care for, making them a great choice for beginner aquarists. These fish are omnivores and will eat a variety of foods, including flakes, pellets, frozen or live foods, and even vegetables.
In terms of appearance, Rosy Barbs are known for their bright and vibrant colors, which range from light pink to deep red. They have a streamlined and sleek body shape, and can grow up to 6 inches (15 cm) in length. Males are generally more colorful than females, with longer fins and a brighter red coloration.
Rosy Barbs are generally peaceful and can be kept in groups of six or more. They are social and active, and will often swim and play together in a hierarchy based on size and dominance. They prefer slightly acidic to neutral water with a pH range of 6.0-7.5 and a temperature range of 72-82°F (22-28°C). It's important to maintain good water quality and provide plenty of hiding places and open swimming areas in the tank.
In terms of tank setup, Rosy Barbs prefer planted tanks with open swimming areas. They are active swimmers and require plenty of swimming space, so a minimum tank size of 30 gallons is recommended. They can be kept with a range of peaceful community fish, but should not be kept with slow-moving or long-finned fish, as they can be a bit nippy.
Overall, Rosy Barbs are a popular and visually striking species of freshwater aquarium fish that are relatively easy to care for and can add a unique and playful element to a community aquarium.
Thank you to CK Yeo for the image. Please advise if you like it removed.
Superior Biological Filtration, Gentle Water Flow, and Reliable Performance.
The Sponge Filter XY2835 is the workhorse of the aquarium world, offering incredibly efficient biological and mechanical filtration with a gentle, fish-safe current. Its dual-sponge design provides a massive surface area for beneficial bacteria to colonize, making it the ideal choice for breeding tanks, hospital tanks, shrimp tanks, and as a supplemental filter in community aquariums. Simple, effective, and affordable.
Key Features & Benefits:
Massive Bio-Load Capacity: Two large, porous sponges offer an enormous surface area for beneficial bacteria, providing stable and superior biological filtration to break down harmful ammonia and nitrite.
Gentle & Safe Flow: The gentle bubbling action is perfect for delicate fish (like bettas), fry, shrimp, and other creatures that could be stressed or harmed by strong filter intakes.
Dual-Purpose Filtration: The sponges provide both mechanical (traps debris) and biological (hosts bacteria) filtration, keeping your water crystal clear and healthy.
Cost-Effective & Efficient: Operates with a standard air pump, making it one of the most energy-efficient and affordable filtration options available.
Versatile & Reliable: Ideal for a wide range of setups, from 40 to 150-litre tanks (10-40 gallons), and is famously reliable with no moving parts to break.
Product Details:
Product Name: Sponge Filter XY2835
Model: XY2835 (55mm x 48mm)
Recommended Tank Size: 40 - 150 Litres (10 - 40 US Gallons)
Required Equipment: Must be powered by a standard aquarium air pump (sold separately). Includes airline tubing and a suction cup for mounting.
What's Included: 1 x Filter Body, 1 x Sponge Sleeves, 1 x Weighted Base, 1 x Lift Tube.
How To Use:
Connect: Attach one end of the included airline tubing to the uplift tube of the filter and the other end to your air pump.
Place: Submerge the filter completely in your aquarium. Use the weighted base or suction cups to secure it in a corner.
Power: Plug in your air pump. You will see a stream of bubbles rising up the lift tube, which creates the water flow that pulls water through the sponges.
Maintain: Rinse the sponges in a bucket of old tank water during water changes to remove debris. Never rinse them under tap water, as chlorine will kill the beneficial bacteria.
Who is this filter for?
The Sponge Filter XY2835 is the ideal choice for:
Breeders: For fry and shrimp tanks, preventing tiny offspring from being sucked into the filter.
Shrimp Keepers: Provides safe filtration and a constant food source for shrimp as they graze on the sponge.
Betta Owners: Offers gentle flow that won't stress long-finned fish.
Hospital/Quarantine Tanks: Provides instant biological filtration without strong currents.
Community Tanks: Excellent as a supplemental filter to boost biological filtration.
Order with Confidence:
A cornerstone of effective aquarium keeping, this filter is a must-have for hobbyists of all levels.
FAQ Section (Suggested for the product page):
Q: What size air pump do I need for this filter?A: For tanks up to 75L (20 gallons), a standard single-outlet pump is sufficient. For larger tanks (up to 150L/40g), a stronger dual-outlet pump is recommended to ensure adequate flow. The deeper the tank, the stronger the pump needed to push air down.
Q: How do I clean it without killing the good bacteria?A: Always clean the sponge in a bucket of water you have removed from the aquarium during a water change. Gently squeeze the sponge to release trapped waste. Using tap water will chlorine will destroy the beneficial bacteria colony.
Q: Is the current really safe for baby fish and shrimp?A: Absolutely. The water is drawn gently through the porous sponge, making it 100% safe for even the smallest fry and shrimp. There are no intakes or impellers to cause harm.
Q: Can I use this as my only filter?A: Yes, for many setups. It excels in biological filtration. For heavily stocked tanks, it can be used as the primary filter. For tanks that produce a lot of waste, it's best paired with a filter that provides stronger mechanical filtration (like a hang-on-back) to polish the water.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THE BOX MAY VARY DEPENDING ON THE SOURCE
The Albino Bristlenose is a variety of the common Bristlenose catfish, a popular freshwater aquarium fish. It is named for its distinctive bristle-like protrusions on its face, which are used to help the fish navigate and sense its environment. The Albino Bristlenose has a white or pinkish body and red eyes, due to a lack of pigmentation in the skin and scales. It typically grows to be about 3-5 inches long, making it a relatively small and manageable aquarium fish.
In addition to its unique appearance, the Albino Bristlenose is known for its hardiness and ease of care. It is a peaceful, herbivorous fish that does well in community tanks with other non-aggressive species. They are also effective at keeping aquariums clean, as they feed on algae and other organic matter.
Overall, the Albino Bristlenose is a great choice for aquarium hobbyists looking for a visually interesting, low-maintenance fish that can also help keep their tank clean.
Ancistrus, also known as bushynose or bristlenose catfish, is a genus of nocturnal freshwater fish in the family Loricariidae of order Siluriformes, native to freshwater habitats in South America and Panama. The common Bristlenose is commonly captive bred appears impossible to identify to species primarily due to a lack of original locality information but also because tens of undescribed congeners exist.
Ancistrus species show all the typical features of the Loricariidae. This includes a body covered in bony plates and a ventral suckermouth. The feature most commonly associated with the genus are the fleshy tentacles found on the head in adult males; females may possess tentacles along the snout margin but they are smaller and they lack tentacles on the head. Tentacules, tentacles directly associated with odontodes, develop on the pectoral fin spine of the males of some species.
Sources: Wikipedia contributors. (2019, October 19). Ancistrus. In Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved 02:58, October 19, 2019, from https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Ancistrus&oldid=921971242/nAncistrus. In Planet Catfish. Retrieved October 19, 2019, from https://www.planetcatfish.com/ancistrus_cf_cirrhosus
General care for shrimp:
Temperature:18°-24°C
Chlorine/chloramines: 0 ppm (very toxic for shrimp)
Ammonia/Nitrite: 0 ppm.
Nitrate: <20 ppm.
pH: 6.2-7.5.
GH: 4-8 dGH
KH: 3-15 dKH
Name
Optimal TDS
Limits
Cherry shrimp
150 – 200
100 – 400
Cardinal shrimp
100
50 – 150
Tiger shrimp
180 – 220
100 – 300
We strongly recommend to drip acclimate any shrimp untill the TDS matches before you release the shrimp into your tank.
Please note the above is just a general indication of the care requirements of shrimp. Results will vary depending on the individuals set up.
Add a splash of colour to your aquarium with the Assorted Hi Fin Platy. These colourful tropical fish are a great addition to any freshwater tank, and their vibrant fins add beautiful detail and intrigue. Their peaceful nature makes them an ideal choice for any community tank.
The Glass Shrimps are endemic to Australia and they inhabit many of our inland habitats.
They mostly inhabit streams and tributaries on all States in Australia except for Tasmania. They can live in cool conditions (cold winter nights at Sydney) through to to the heat of Sydney's weather.
They are an easy species to have and will graze on Algae or uneaten foods. They are not the best when it comes to algae control.
Consider giving these gems a try. They reproduce with a planktonic stage and they are quick (as they live with Gambusia and other invasive species).
A few people have tried them with Bettas. Although it is not recommended however in a planted Betta tank it is best to have them in a group of 5 or more.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS SHRIMPS IS CURRENTLY HELD OFFSITE AND CAN ONLY BE PURCHASED THROUGH THE WEBSITE ONLY. IT IS CURRENTLY NOT AVAILABLE IN STORE.
Trichogaster trichopterus sumatranus Ladiges, 1933COMMON NAME: Blue gourami.DESCRIPTION: A subspecies with a powder blue background colour; as far as can be determined, this is a wild colour mutation. First imported in 1933, it quickly became popular as an aquarium fish. Today it is kept more commonly than most other forms of the species. There are hardly any marks at all on this fish, except for the two body spots, but even these look more or less washed out in adult specimens.BREEDING FORMS of trichogaster trichopterus.Several specially bred color forms of T. trichopterys have come into the aquarium trade during the last few decades. In most cases it is not possible to determine whether a particular color form was bred out of the original described form or from the blue subspecies. T. t, sumatranusThese forms should just be given common names and no attempts to taxonomically classify them, as has done in much of the aquarium literature, should be attempted. Designations such as var. variety) or forma (form) should not be usedfor such breeding forms, since their origins or derivations are really unknown. The best known of the breeding forms are the gold gourami and the silver gourami.GOLD GOURAMIThe gold gourami has a golden yellow background colour with either black or reddish brown eyes. Most specimens show a clearly conspicuous marble pattern. It is usually assumed that this breeding form was developed from a xanthistic (yellow-colored) mutation of the originally described form.SILVER GOURAMIThe silver gourami has a silver background colour. There are some individuals that have a clear marbled pattern and others in which this pattern is only weakly apparent. Nothing is known about the origin of thefirst specimens. In contrast to the gold gourami, the silver gourami has not had much distribution in the aquarium trade.COSBY, OR MARBLED, GOURAMIThe Cosby gourami, or marbled gourami, was probably developed in the United States. The original specimens seem to have been Trichogaster tricbopterussumatranus, When they first colour up thehave a few dark blue spots on a powdery light blue background. Asreplaced by a dark marbled pattern. These striking marked fish are very popular in the aquarium hobby.This color form has been designated with all kinds of pseudo-scientific names, such as Trichogaster cosby, "Trichogaster sumatranus, var. cosby," or Trichogastersumatranus forma cosby."Labyrinth Fish Pinter (1984) p86Picture https://www.thesprucepets.com/blue-gourami-1381023
When buying endlers we recommend either going all males or a ratio of 1 male to 2 females or more. this is to ensure the females are not getting too stressed out by the males who will constantly chase them wanting to breed.
Temperature: 24 – 28°C
pH: 6.5 – 7.8
Hardness: 8-12 dGH
Lifespan: 2+ years
Max Size: 3-5cm
Diet: Omnivore
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
Discover this rare betta fish for sale in Australia, exactly as shown in the photos. Each fish is healthy, vibrant, and full of personality—making it the perfect addition to your aquarium. Shipped safely from Sydney, our bettas are ready to thrive in your home tank.
Specifications:
Males: Approx. 4–5 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Females: Approx. 3–4 cm | Giant bettas: 7–9 cm
Age: 3–6 months
Origin: Imported from Indonesia or Thailand
Important Notes:
Koi, grizzle, and fancy bettas may naturally change colour and pattern as they grow or during transit.
Long-fin varieties may occasionally nip their own tails—this is a natural behaviour.
All fish are kept in Sydney tap water (23–26°C, pH ~7) to ensure they’re well-adjusted and healthy.
Shipping:
We ship live bettas from Sydney every Monday and Tuesday for the safest transit.
Please see our Shipping Policy for more details.
Optional Video:Want a closer look at your betta before purchase? Order a video of your exact fish through the link provided.
This stunning Black Metal Snakeskin Guppy is a rare and highly sought-after fish for collectors and enthusiasts. Its unique black and metallic pattern make it a standout in any aquarium, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication. These guppies are sold as pairs, making them the perfect addition to your tank.
Characteristics
Family
Poeciliidae
Origin
Native to South America, pet fish are captive-bred
Social
Peaceful
Tank Level
Top, mid-dweller
Minimum Tank Size
10 gallon
Diet
Omnivore
Breeding
Live-bearer
Care
Beginner
pH
6.5 to 8.0
Hardness
100 to 150 mg/L (6 to 8 dH)
Temperature
68 to 78 F (20 to 26 C)
Origin and Distribution
The guppy has been captive bred for over 100 years, but originally came from South America. They are named for Robert John Lechmere Guppy who collected these fish on the island of Trinidad in 1866. They are native to freshwater streams in the north of South America, including Surinam, Guyana, and Venezuela, and the Caribbean islands, including Barbados and Trinidad and Tobago. Now, they have been introduced to every continent but Antarctica, and can be found in many warm waterways around the world.
Tankmates
Guppies are peaceful, easygoing community fish that play well with a mix of other non-aggressive fish species. You may want to keep them with similar, live-bearing fish, such as platys or mollies. Other good tankmates include small fish, such as neon tetras or zebrafish. Keep in mind that any fry spawned from an active guppy female may be dinner for other fish in the tank, so having smaller tankmates will ensure more fry survive.
Many guppy keepers often opt for a guppy-only aquarium. You are welcome to mix different varieties of guppy in the same tank. The number of guppies you can keep in one tank will depend on the size of the tank—a general guideline is 1 gallon of water for every 1 inch of fish. For example, because guppies average around 2 inches in length, a 10-gallon tank may only hold five guppies comfortably, while a 30-gallon tank may hold 15 guppies. Generally, it’s also best to have two or three females for every one male in the tank.
Guppy Habitat and Care
Guppies are great beginner fish. They are low maintenance and can tolerate some beginner mistakes. A bigger tank size is recommended since guppies are very active fish. They thrive in an aquarium with plants and soft décor items.
In order to keep your population from exploding, it is strongly recommended that you separate males and females in different tanks. Guppy females can store sperm for multiple spawns, even after separation from males, so once a female has been with a male, she may have multiple batches of babies. Tank dividers are okay as a temporary solution, but many of these flimsy, plastic dividers are usually not enough to keep fish separated. Two separate tanks will keep unwanted spawning to zero.
Heater
As a general rule, you need a heater to keep your guppies healthy. They prefer water temperatures in the 70s, and few homes are warm enough to provide that without an immersible heater in the tank. Monitor water temperature daily and adjust the heater as needed to keep your fish comfortable and healthy.
Filtration
Your aquarium definitely needs a filter to remove impurities and harmful chemicals from the tank water. Without a filter, aquarium water tends to quickly become filled with pollutants from uneaten food and fish waste, and your fish can become ill or even die from this harmful water. There are many types of aquarium filters available to suit any budget, so talk to the fish expert at your local aquarium shop or pet store if you are uncertain as to which filter is best for your tank.
Guppy Diet and Feeding
Guppies are omnivores and do well on a variety of commercially available feeds. Even though guppies are small in size, pelleted diets called micro pellets are the best choice since they hold onto their nutrition longer than flakes. You are welcome to add supplements, such as frozen fish foods, but no more than once or twice a week. The complete pelleted diet is best for most pet fish species.
Depending on your aquarium's temperature and the other tank inhabitants, you may feed your fish once or twice a day. Always start with a little bit of food, and when it has all been consumed, add a little more. Repeat for a few minutes and use this time to check all of your fish. Feeding time is a great time to see if any of your fish are acting odd or sick.
Gender Differences
There are a few gender differences you will need to identify to keep your male and female populations separate. Males tend to be smaller and more vibrantly colored. Females tend to have a brown coloration and are larger and rounder. Also, as male guppies grow, their body will develop coloration that does not occur on the female's body.
On the underside of the fish, the anal fin of the male is long and thin and tapers to a point. The anal fin on the female guppy is larger and triangular or fan in shape.
Guppies are sexually mature in about two to three months, and you should be able to identify the differences between genders by 1 month of age, if you wish to separate them. Female guppies first produce offspring at 10–20 weeks of age, and they continue to reproduce until 20–34 months of age.
Breeding the Guppy
Many beginner hobbyists will start with only one female guppy and suddenly have a swarm. Since female guppies can store sperm, it only takes one insemination by a male for a few spawns to be born. In order to prevent your aquarium from maxing out its stocking capacity, it is always best to separate male and female guppies.
Guppies are live-bearers, so the female will give birth to 10–50 wiggling fry per spawning. Many times, the newly born fry will be eaten by other fish in the aquarium, so if you want to save any fish, keep them in a separate tank or breeding box. Heavily planted aquariums will also give the babies places to hide and survive.
After breeding together many generations of the same population, you may notice an increased number of fish with congenital abnormalities, such as crooked spines or shortened lifespans.
AQUAEL PAT MINI is a tiny turbine filter intended for use in small freshwater aquariums. This device consists of a small head and a carefully selected filter sponge. Thanks to the innovative design, the maximum throughput of the filter head reaches 400 l/h, which is comparable to the typical performance of a medium-sized turbine aquarium filter. Despite its high performance, the filter operates at a power consumption of 4W or less. Given its specifications, PAT MINI can provide efficient filtration even in a 120-liter tank. However, you should not be concerned about the filter creating an excessive whirling motion in smaller tanks, since there is a performance control switch in the front part of the head that allows you to adjust throughput as required. In addition, the filter is equipped with a directional nozzle that can be used to control the outflow of water into the tank e.g. by directing it towards a tank wall. The aeration tube connected to the outlet nozzle ensures efficient oxygenation of the water.
The sponge supplied with the PAT MINI filter can trap even the finest visible impurities, performing efficient mechanical filtration of water in the tank. In addition, the sponge provides an ideal living environment for strains of beneficial nitrifying bacteria that oxidize ammonia and nitrates, toxic substances that are harmful to fish. Maintenance of the sponge is very simple and takes less than a minute. Regular maintenance will guarantee continuous operation of the filter, and the inhabitants of our aquarium will swim in crystal-clear and toxin-free water.
The device is very easy to install thanks to a holder equipped with strong suction cups and a functional bracket that can be used to hook the filter onto the edge of a tank wall.
The PAT MINI filter is compatible with the AQUAEL sprinkler and the AQUAEL MINI UV water sterilizer. Replacement sponge media can be purchased separately. They are available either in the standard version or in the CARBOMAX and PHOSMAX versions. The CARBOMAX sponge is saturated with activated carbon to remove chemical contaminants and water discoloration. The PHOSMAX sponge is intended for removing phosphates from the water in order to prevent the growth of algae.
DO YOU NEED PARTS? IF YOU DO PLEASE CONTACT US AND WE CAN ARRANGE THE PARTS FOR YOU.
AQUAEL TURBO FILTER is designed for the cleaning and aeration of aquarium water. This quiet and energy-efficient filter provides double (mechanical and biological) filtration out of the box. It is compatible with any biological or chemical filter cartridges offered by AQUAEL, such as BioCeraMAX Pro 600, BioCeraMAX Pro 1200, BioCeraMAX Pro 1600, ZeoMAX PLUS, CarboMAX PLUS, NitroMAX PRO, PhosMAX BASIC, and PhosMAX PRO.
The sealed rotor chamber ensures high efficiency at a relatively low level of power consumption. All the AQUAEL TURBO FILTER models are equipped with special shock-absorbing suction cups to dampen vibrations that may be carried to the glass and to muffle the operation of the device.
The larger models, TURBO FILTER 1000, 1500, and 2000, are equipped with a ceramic rotor axis for even quieter operation and enhanced durability.
Thanks to the special design of AQUAEL TURBO internal filters, they are easily expandable. The filter media containers can be filled with any filter medium, as required.
The starter kit includes:
a container for loose filter media with a capacity of 250 ml in the TURBO FILTER 500 model and 625 ml in the TURBO FILTER 1000, 1500, and 2000 models,
one BioCeraMAX Pro 600 cartridge for biological filtration,
one sponge of carefully selected density to ensure high filtering parameters for as long as possible
TURBO filters are available in three installation configurations: sponge only, container only, container plus a sponge. Additional containers for filter media can be bought separately. You can easily join them in columns thanks to a specially designed connection system. In this way, the filter can be transformed into a customised device with unique filtration parameters, carefully tailored to individual needs.
AQUAEL TURBO FILTER is designed for the cleaning and aeration of aquarium water. This quiet and energy-efficient filter provides double (mechanical and biological) filtration out of the box. It is compatible with any biological or chemical filter cartridges offered by AQUAEL, such as BioCeraMAX Pro 600, BioCeraMAX Pro 1200, BioCeraMAX Pro 1600, ZeoMAX PLUS, CarboMAX PLUS, NitroMAX PRO, PhosMAX BASIC, and PhosMAX PRO.
The sealed rotor chamber ensures high efficiency at a relatively low level of power consumption. All the AQUAEL TURBO FILTER models are equipped with special shock-absorbing suction cups to dampen vibrations that may be carried to the glass and to muffle the operation of the device.
The larger models, TURBO FILTER 1000, 1500, and 2000, are equipped with a ceramic rotor axis for even quieter operation and enhanced durability.
Thanks to the special design of AQUAEL TURBO internal filters, they are easily expandable. The filter media containers can be filled with any filter medium, as required.
The starter kit includes:
a container for loose filter media with a capacity of 250 ml in the TURBO FILTER 500 model and 625 ml in the TURBO FILTER 1000, 1500, and 2000 models,
one BioCeraMAX Pro 600 cartridge for biological filtration,
one sponge of carefully selected density to ensure high filtering parameters for as long as possible
TURBO filters are available in three installation configurations: sponge only, container only, container plus a sponge. Additional containers for filter media can be bought separately. You can easily join them in columns thanks to a specially designed connection system. In this way, the filter can be transformed into a customised device with unique filtration parameters, carefully tailored to individual needs.
AQUAEL TURBO FILTER is designed for the cleaning and aeration of aquarium water. This quiet and energy-efficient filter provides double (mechanical and biological) filtration out of the box. It is compatible with any biological or chemical filter cartridges offered by AQUAEL, such as BioCeraMAX Pro 600, BioCeraMAX Pro 1200, BioCeraMAX Pro 1600, ZeoMAX PLUS, CarboMAX PLUS, NitroMAX PRO, PhosMAX BASIC, and PhosMAX PRO.
The sealed rotor chamber ensures high efficiency at a relatively low level of power consumption. All the AQUAEL TURBO FILTER models are equipped with special shock-absorbing suction cups to dampen vibrations that may be carried to the glass and to muffle the operation of the device.
The larger models, TURBO FILTER 1000, 1500, and 2000, are equipped with a ceramic rotor axis for even quieter operation and enhanced durability.
Thanks to the special design of AQUAEL TURBO internal filters, they are easily expandable. The filter media containers can be filled with any filter medium, as required.
The starter kit includes:
a container for loose filter media with a capacity of 250 ml in the TURBO FILTER 500 model and 625 ml in the TURBO FILTER 1000, 1500, and 2000 models,
one BioCeraMAX Pro 600 cartridge for biological filtration,
one sponge of carefully selected density to ensure high filtering parameters for as long as possible
TURBO filters are available in three installation configurations: sponge only, container only, container plus a sponge. Additional containers for filter media can be bought separately. You can easily join them in columns thanks to a specially designed connection system. In this way, the filter can be transformed into a customised device with unique filtration parameters, carefully tailored to individual needs.
Assorted female bettas available will vary depending on stock.
We normally have an assortment of colours and include a variety of strains such as veil tail, Halfmoon, Plakats, Dumbos, Double tails, etc.
Description:Echinodorus Martii, commonly known as the Ruffle Sword Plant, is a striking aquatic species prized for its long, wavy-edged leaves that create a dramatic, textured appearance in aquariums. Its bright green, ruffled foliage adds visual interest and serves as an excellent midground to background plant, particularly in larger tanks where it can grow up to 12–24 inches (30–60 cm) tall 147.
Key Features:
Leaf Structure: Long, thick leaves with ruffled margins and light striations, providing a lush, natural look 14.
Growth Habit: Forms a rosette and can produce adventitious shoots (side runners) for propagation 15.
Color & Contrast: Its vibrant green hue pairs well with red plants, enhancing aquascape aesthetics 18.
Care Requirements:
Lighting: Thrives in moderate to high light but adapts to lower light with slower growth 17.
Substrate: Requires a nutrient-rich substrate (e.g., enriched soil or root tabs) as it is a heavy root feeder 1411.
CO2 & Fertilization: CO2 is optional but boosts growth; benefits from iron and trace elements 47.
Water Parameters: Prefers 72–84°F (22–30°C), pH 5.0–7.5, and soft to moderately hard water 711.
Propagation & Maintenance:
Propagates via side shoots or rhizome division 47.
Prune older leaves to control size and encourage new growth 15.
Ideal For:
Beginners due to its hardiness 13.
Centerpiece or background in mid-to-large tanks 28.
Origin: Native to Central and South America, often found in submerged riverbanks 15.
Note: Some taxonomists classify E. martii as synonymous with E. major or E. subalatus, but it remains a trade staple under its common name 5.
JAVA FERN: THE BEST PLANT FOR YOUR PLANTED AQUARIUM
Java ferns (microsorum pteropus) are perfect for aquariums. They're small, easy to grow, and don't need a lot of light to survive. Ask us for varieties we have available. For example, there are needle leaf varieties that require bright lights, as well as more traditional 'jungle' leaves such as the Narrow Leaf, Lance Leaf, and Windelov – their many varieties to suit your needs inside your aquarium.
Your fish will appreciate the natural hiding spots provided by Java Fern so they can get away from time to time and feel safe and secure when they want it.
Identification
If you want a true aquatic plant that can grow when submerged in water or even partially out, then the Java fern is perfect for your tank.
Our diverse line of beautiful and delicate-looking Java plants are perfect for people who prefer an aesthetic look inside their home aqua garden without crazy maintenance requirements. When you require a go-to plant that looks great in almost any aquascapes, go with Java Ferns (from Nano Tanks Australia with our aquascaping expertise, of course!).
The narrow-leaf Java fern generally boasts long, skinny leaves, with the plant growing to a height of 10-12 inches (25-30 cm). Java Fern is perfect for those who have limited space or are trying to create an artificial jungle feel in their aquarium. The plants need bright light, but indirect (not right under the light), so they can grow properly.
Keep in mind the sun has a much more potent energy than your tiny aquarium lights, so aquarium keepers can tend to underestimate the wattage and spectrum required. Saying that, in nature Aquatic Java Fern tends to never receive direct light in the jungle river.
So although the Java Fern will be fine with low light in the tank, its growth rate will not impress you.
What You Should Know about Java Fern
It's probably better than any other plant that would grow inside an aquatic environment for this reason - its fronds are big enough for fish to swim through them without getting stuck between leaves.
A striking addition to any freshwater planted aquarium, perfect if you have cichlids or South American fish. Fortunately, it's also relatively easy for plant-eating goldfish and other tank mates to leave it alone because of its tough rhizomes! Java Fern does well in water with pH levels between 6-7.5, as long as the alkalinity stays below eight dKH (aka carbonate hardness).
If you see black spots (or brown spots) in your plant's leaves, don't worry - they do that. Java ferns have veins running through them, and sometimes new bumps will pop up on the leaf from which a new shoot emerges.
Planting and Replanting Java Fern in the Aquarium
Java ferns grow beautifully with other live plants since they are so robust, but they also make a great centrepiece for the aquarium when planted alone. Alternatively, you can attach java fern to aquarium decorations (like rock or driftwood) to create an elegant look that will not overwhelm your fish tank with too much greenery!
Java Fern is a hardy plant that can live in any tank size, making it perfect for apartment dwellers who don't have room for large aquariums! If the water stays clean (and you're not adding liquid fertiliser), this resilient Fern's growth will remain consistent without any problems. The Fern prefers water with soft-to-moderate temperatures of 22 degrees Celsius.
Data at a glance for Java Fern
Family: Polypodiaceae
Care Level: Easy
Growth Rate: Low to Moderate
Maximum Size: 30cm
Minimum Tank Size: 20 Litres (tall tank)
Water Conditions: 20-28°C
pH 6.0-7.5
KH 3-8
Lighting: Low to Moderate (Depending on the desired rate of growth)
Propagation: Adventitious Plantlet/Rhizome Division
Placement: Mid to Background
Overview
Nearly all pet aquatics companies manufacture a product that removes chlorine. None of those, however, can compare in quality, concentration, or effectiveness to Seachem’s flagship product: Prime®. Prime® is the complete and concentrated conditioner for both fresh and saltwater. Prime® removes chlorine, chloramine and detoxifies ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. It is non-acidic and will not impact pH. A further bonus for the reef hobbyist—Prime® will not over-activate skimmers.
Prime® is up to 5x more concentrated than competing products and is the second most concentrated dechlorinator on the market only after our own aquavitro® alpha™.
Prime® may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. It contains a binder which renders ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate non-toxic, allowing the biofilter to more efficiently remove them. It will also detoxify any heavy metals found in the tap water at typical concentration levels. Use at start-up and whenever adding or replacing water. When transporting or quarantining fish, use Seachem StressGuard™. When adding new fish, use Stability®. Both are ideal for use with Prime®.
Directions
Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 US gallons) of new water. For smaller volumes, please note each cap thread is approximately 1 mL. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.
FAQ
I think that my Prime® might be old because it smells like it went bad.
A: Prime® has a very distinct odor that is similar to sulfur which is completely normal.
I noticed some small black specks in the bottom of my bottle of Prime®. Is it still good?
A: The presence of small black specks occasionally occurs and is normal.
I am using Prime® to control ammonia but my test kit says it is not doing anything, in fact it looks like it added ammonia! What is going on?
A: A Nessler based kit will not read ammonia properly if you are using Prime®... it will look "off scale", sort of a muddy brown (incidentally a Nessler kit will not work with any other products similar to Prime®). A salicylate based kit can be used, but with caution. Under the conditions of a salicylate kit the ammonia-Prime® complex will be broken down eventually giving a false reading of ammonia (same as with other products like Prime®), so the key with a salicylate kit is to take the reading right away. However, the best solution ;-) is to use our MultiTest™ Ammonia kit; it uses a gas exchange sensor system which is not affected by the presence of Prime® or other similar products. It also has the added advantage that it can detect the more dangerous free ammonia and distinguish it from total ammonia (total ammonia is both free ammonia and non-toxic ionized forms of ammonia).
I tested my tap water after using Prime® and came up with an ammonia reading. Is this because of chloramine? Could you explain how this works in removing chloramine?
A: Prime® works by removing chlorine from the water and then binds with ammonia until it can be consumed by your biological filtration (chloramine minus chlorine = ammonia). The bond is not reversible and ammonia is still available for your bacteria to consume. Prime® will not halt your cycling process.
I am going to assume that you were using a liquid based reagent test kit (Nessler based, silica). Any type of reducing agent or ammonia binder (dechlorinators, etc) will give you a false positive. You can avoid this by using our MultiTest™ Ammonia kit (not affected by reducing agents) or you can wait to test, Prime® dissipates from your system within 24 hours.
How does Prime® make a difference in reducing nitrates?
A: The detoxification of nitrite and nitrate by Prime® (when used at elevated levels) is not well understood from a mechanistic standpoint. The most likely explanation is that the nitrite and nitrate is removed in a manner similar to the way ammonia is removed; i.e. it is bound and held in a inert state until such time that bacteria in the biological filter are able to take a hold of it, break it apart and use it. Two other possible scenarios are reduction to nitrogen (N2) gas or conversion into a benign organic nitrogen compound.
I wish we had some more "concrete" explanation, but the end result is the same, it does actually detoxify nitrite and nitrate. This was unexpected chemically and thus initially we were not even aware of this, however we received numerous reports from customers stating that when they overdosed with Prime® they were able to reduce or eliminate the high death rates they experienced when their nitrite and nitrate levels were high. We have received enough reports to date to ensure that this is no fluke and is in fact a verifiable function of the product.
How often can I dose Prime®?
A: Prime® can be dosed every 24-48 hours.
If Prime® is removing ammonia from the system, won’t that starve the beneficial bacteria?
A: Prime® does not remove ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate from the system. It simply binds with those compounds making them harmless to the inhabitants and still bioavailable to the beneficial bacteria.
How long does Prime® stay bound to the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates?
A: Prime® will bind up those compounds for up to 48 hours. If they are still present after that time frame, they are released back into the water, unless Prime® is re-dosed accordingly. Also, if your ammonia or nitrite levels are increasing within a 24-hour period, Prime® can be re-dosed every 24 hours.
When should I use the emergency dose of 5 x the recommended amount of Prime®?
A: If your ammonia or nitrite levels are above 2 ppm, you can safely use up to 5 x the recommended amount.
Does Prime® expire?
A: No, as long as Prime® has been stored properly, it will last indefinitely.
My Prime® smells like garlic. Is this normal?
A: Prime® can vary in smell based on the parameters in the warehouse during the time of manufacture. It does normally smell of Sulfur, but we have extensively tested the product and found that the difference in scent does not in any way effect how the product functions. It is still perfectly safe to use!
Overview
Stability® will rapidly and safely establish the aquarium biofilter in freshwater and marine systems, thereby preventing the #1 cause of fish death: "new tank syndrome". Stability® is formulated specifically for the aquarium and contains a synergistic blend of aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative bacteria which facilitate the breakdown of waste organics, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. The bacteria employed by Stability® are non-sulfur fixing and will not produce toxic hydrogen sulfide. Stability® is completely harmless to all aquatic organisms as well as aquatic plants, thus there is no danger of over use.
Stability® is the culmination of nearly a decade of research and development and represents the current state of the art in natural biological management.
The bacteria used in competing products are inherently unstable. The conditions necessary for their growth and development fall into a very narrow range of temperatures, pH, organic loads, etc. When any of these parameters are not strictly within the proper range, the bacterial culture quickly crashes and dies. Stability® is not limited this way. The necessary conditions for the growth of Stability's™ bacteria strains encompass a very broad range. When other bacteria begin to die off (usually from high organic loads caused by the undetected death of an organism), Stability™ simply becomes more effective.
Directions
Shake well before use. Turn off UV/ozone. Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 40 L (10 US gallons) on the first day with a new aquarium. Then use 1 capful for each 80 L (20 US gallons) daily for 7 days. Fish and other aquatic species may be introduced at any time as long as dosage is maintained for 7 days. For optimum biofilter performance use 1 capful for each 80 L (20 US gallons) once a month or with each water change and whenever introducing new fish or whenever medicating an aquarium. Product shelf life is 6 years from date of manufacture.
Stability® should ideally be used in conjunction with biological filtration such as Seachem Matrix™. For emergency ammonia control, use Seachem AmGuard™.
FAQ
When dosing Stability™, how long should I turn off my UV filter or my ozone?
A: The UV and/or ozone should be kept off for the 7 days you are dosing if you are cycling or for at least 24 hours if it is for Stability™ additions of new fish or water changes. The reason both should be turned off is because UV and ozone break down and kill bacteria.
What is a reasonable amount of time to allow the Stability™ to come out of the spore state and find a home to attach themselves?
A: The bacteria should be able to find a suitable home within 24 hours.
I just finished cycling my new tank, but i made a mistake of introducing many fishes at the same time. i was wondering if i could use Stability™ to increase the bb's for the increased bioload?
A: Yes, Stability™ will prove very helpful in removing ammonia and nitrite, including nitrate, as a result of the increased bioload. If your ammonia level is not at zero, a combination of Stability™ and AmGuard is very useful and great in reducing ammonia toxicity on the bacteria blend as the bacteria consumes the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in the aquarium
Why does Stability™ not need refrigeration? If there's living bacteria in the solution, how do they stay alive for so long? Or is there something else besides bacteria in the product altogether?
A: The bacteria in Stability™ are alive but not active. They exist in a spore form. They can withstand extreme temperatures and do not require food to survive. When you add them to your aquarium they become active due to dilution.
The bacteria that require refrigeration are active. Refrigerating them slows down their life cycle and they require less food when cold. Because they are active they do require food, and that is packaged with them. They also will not survive extreme heat or cold and will die when they run out of food.
Can Stability™ be overdosed?
A: It is very hard to overdose Stability. You can really never have too much beneficial bacteria. The worst thing that could happen is a bacterial bloom in the water column, but this is rare and will clear on its own, should it occur.
I have finished the suggested 7-day dosing, however, my tank is still not fully cycled. Why?
A: Since every tank will cycle differently, it is difficult for us to give an exact time frame as to when your tank will be fully cycled. However, generally most tanks are cycled within 4-6 weeks.
If I plan to do a fishless cycle and use Stability™, do I need to add an ammonia source to kick-start the nitrogen cycle?
A: Yes, for expedited cycling times, you will want to add a pinch of food daily until you have an ammonia reading. At that point, you can stop adding the food and let the bacteria run its course.
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